CaysE

I spent some time testing out wetsanding and polishing with my decklid today, and it looks worse than when I started. There are dull spots, scratches all over the place, the works. I don't know how you guys do it... I took my time, didn't push too hard with the sandpaper, I even kept the surface under constant water flow. And it just looks nothing like some of the pics you guys post. I'm buying an orbital buffer.... :shrug:

JeffW

you must have a machine to polish the sand marks out. there is no way that i have seen that wil work by hand. i got a nice mikita that works real nice from the autobody store not sure of your price range though.

Jeff

jay92,85,79

iTrader: (1)

A orbital buffer will not work.Has to be a reg buffer.U can a uorbital bufferse for the last glazeing. What grit sand paper u use.I hope nothing heavier than 1000 grit. And how old is the paint u are trying to wet sand?

CaysE

Paint is 2-3 years old by my guess. Possibly older, but I doubt it. I used 400, 1000, 2000, rubbing compound, and polish. I actually wanted to go coarser sandpaper just to even out the horrendous orange peel.

Price range for a buffer is "I'll buy it." I know Mikita makes some nice stuff... how much was yours, Jeff?

As far as sandpaper goes, I know 400 is not overkill on paint, especially since it didn't get rid of all the orange peel. Should I be using a block instead of just the paper? Or perhaps a circular sander?

jay92,85,79

iTrader: (1)

Yeah u can use a wetsanding block. 400 is way to ruff for wetsanding. I had a black and decker buffer i think it was 50 bucks and it lasted for 7 years. that Mikita buffer is great but it cost alot the one they have at my work was like 320 i think.

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

1000 grit will take it down, just takes time and patients. Like what was said above, 400 is way too course for finish work. When wetsanding without a block, don't use your fingers, use the palm of your hand. If you use your fingers you'll be putting grooves in the paint and possibly go through. It's best to use a nice flat sanding block where ever possible and never sand on edges, just work up to the edges. Same goes for when you're buffing, you'll burn through the paint easy on an edge. If you hear like a zipping noise while sanding, stop. Probably a bit of dirt or built up paint on the sand paper and that'll put some nice big scratches in the paint. Just rinse it off and keep going. As for rubbing compounds, I used 3M's Perfect-it II rubbing compound and then 3M's imperial hand glaze. Probably not the best combo but my paint came out nice and shiny with zero swirl marks.

CaysE

Thanks for the input, guys. I'm using the same 3M rubbing compound as you, EvilCartman, and I'm using Meguire's Stage 2 polish.

Is this the polisher you guys are talking about? http://store.yahoo.com/toolsplus/mak9227c.html

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Did you use that 3m rubbing compound with an orbital buffer? If so what kinda pad did you use. Foam, wool, or terry cloth pad? I did my car with foam and 3m swirl mark remover. It did a decent job but on a black car it needs alot more work. I thought about wet sanding, but I just too scared I would screw it up and stratch the crap out of it.

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Just keep going over it with the 1000 grit, if you can work it up to 2000 nicely some 3M Perfect it III can help it but wont completely solve it, its much better to get a buffer and a wool pad.

JeffW

looks like the buffer casey here is the kit i got came with a bag and 2 pads i also got surefinish from this site all you do is change pad type and use the same product. so far it seems to work very good. i still have to do my final buff

http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/m...tegory_Code=T2

Jeff

CaysE

Ordered.