Por 15 tips
#1
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From: Mill Creek, Washington
Car: 1983 Trans Am
Engine: N/A
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Por 15 tips
I just got my POR15 in the mail today, and I really just wanna crack the can open and start flinging the stuff on my rust.
But I figure I need to do it right. So does anyone have any tips and such so I can get the most out of my quart?
Also...
I forgot to buy metal ready and marine=clean
Is there any substitutes from schucks/krager or some other autoparts store I can use in place of metal-ready, or marine=clean?
Can I just rough up the area with sand paper.. if so what grit?
Area of application
But I figure I need to do it right. So does anyone have any tips and such so I can get the most out of my quart?
Also...
I forgot to buy metal ready and marine=clean
Is there any substitutes from schucks/krager or some other autoparts store I can use in place of metal-ready, or marine=clean?
Can I just rough up the area with sand paper.. if so what grit?
Area of application
#2
Marine Clean is just a water-based degreaser. You can use Simple Green or Oil Eater, lots of other cleaners will work. But make sure it is water-based and not solvent. Dilute the cleaner with water and spray or brush on. Rinse with clean water. DOn't touch it after cleaning.
Metal-Ready is a zinc containing solution. I have seen another product like it called Picklex 20 that looks like it does the same thing. Maybe a local auto paint place has it or something like it that you can use.
Read the stuff that Por-15 sent with your paint- and the stuff on their website. I used it to repair a rusted floor on my '67 Cutlass, folowing the directions and it came out great.
Brian
Metal-Ready is a zinc containing solution. I have seen another product like it called Picklex 20 that looks like it does the same thing. Maybe a local auto paint place has it or something like it that you can use.
Read the stuff that Por-15 sent with your paint- and the stuff on their website. I used it to repair a rusted floor on my '67 Cutlass, folowing the directions and it came out great.
Brian
#3
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From: Mill Creek, Washington
Car: 1983 Trans Am
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Alright thanks..
I read everything, and plan on following directions and stuff.
I just do not want to wait another two weeks to order something I could buy in a store anyways.
I read everything, and plan on following directions and stuff.
I just do not want to wait another two weeks to order something I could buy in a store anyways.
#5
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
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That reminds me, I have two starter kits waiting around here to do my underbody and wheel wells. I gotta get crackin on that already
#7
Yes- you have to wait til it cures completely. Rough up the surface with sand paper and prime. You can also buy POR-15 Tie Coat Primer and paint over the Por-15- I believe you have to do this while the Por-15 is still tacky.
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#8
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From: Mill Creek, Washington
Car: 1983 Trans Am
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And I believe you use the POR 15 top coat primer while the rust preventative is still tacky, or sand a little with 300 grit after it dries to use some other kind of primer.
~~Any more advice as a good substitute for metal ready?~~
~~Any more advice as a good substitute for metal ready?~~
#9
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From: Mill Creek, Washington
Car: 1983 Trans Am
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How should I store my brush?
I dried one out already, because it just... got too hard, I do what I do with other paints, I wrapped it in a piece of tin foil.
I mean, brushes are only like 3 bucks, no big deal, but how should i store a brush that has been used with POR15?
I was thinking just keeping it submerged in water
I dried one out already, because it just... got too hard, I do what I do with other paints, I wrapped it in a piece of tin foil.
I mean, brushes are only like 3 bucks, no big deal, but how should i store a brush that has been used with POR15?
I was thinking just keeping it submerged in water
#13
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From: Mill Creek, Washington
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The rust preventative paint is gloss black.
But you can spray over it with flat back if you want... at any rate, you need to spray over it with something if you are painting an area which will be exposed to the sun.
But you can spray over it with flat back if you want... at any rate, you need to spray over it with something if you are painting an area which will be exposed to the sun.
#14
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From: Gloucester,England,UK
Car: '92 RS Camaro
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Even though the manufacturers would never endorse it I've used 2 pack etch instead of tie coat before shooting on 2 pack.Also their thinner is very overpriced so I use cellulose thinners instead (less than 1/10th of the price).I've had absolutely no reaction or problem with either.But as with any paint advice try a test first to make sure you're happy with it.(leaving parts immersed in salt water for a few days or leave in damp conditions for a few weeks sorts the products that work from the ones that don't.)
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