Shaving door handles myself
#151
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So how would that work then? Would you still cut a piece of steel to fill in the holes and then instead of welding it in filling the seams with the adhesive? I'm not worried so much about the welding part as I am about taking a grinder to the car after that. Cause I've only used a grinder on parts that I wanted to cut out (like those annoying rivets in the door panels) and I'm afraid that I'd end up cutting right through the door skin.
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Yes, you still use it in small quantities, to bond steel rather than fill it. Sort of like JB Weld. I'm talking about a small grinder, not one of the bigger ones. I used a die grinder with coarse roloc discs for mine.
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What magazine was that article in? It sounds like something that would be worth checking out.
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I think it was Street Rod Builder, from a few months ago. Its a great magzine for anyone interested in custom stuff, and working on cars in general. I'll see if I can find the issue this weekend and post some details.
Last edited by LT1guy; 11-27-2002 at 09:47 AM.
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Oh and also,when i do fill the doors with body filler...sould i use the lightweight , short strand , or long strand fiberglass stuff?Ive also seen the mettalic bondo before.Which should i use and which stuff did you use redraif?
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I checked their website, www.streetrodbuilder.com but that article wasn't one of the ones they had posted. I also just wanted to let everybody know that I'm putting together a website on shaving the door handles/solenoid installation and on changing the door panels. So as soon as I go and get more batteries for my camera so that I can take the last of the pics, that'll be up.
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Originally posted by LowCamaro
Yes and what would that stuff be called that you are talking about LT1 guy?
Yes and what would that stuff be called that you are talking about LT1 guy?
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Originally posted by LowCamaro
Oh and also,when i do fill the doors with body filler...sould i use the lightweight , short strand , or long strand fiberglass stuff?Ive also seen the mettalic bondo before.Which should i use and which stuff did you use redraif?
Oh and also,when i do fill the doors with body filler...sould i use the lightweight , short strand , or long strand fiberglass stuff?Ive also seen the mettalic bondo before.Which should i use and which stuff did you use redraif?
Last edited by LT1guy; 11-27-2002 at 10:01 AM.
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hmm,ok well ive got the sheet metal all cut and ready to weld now.I need to know if it will be ok to just tack weld the metal in at a few spots.LT1 guy,i know you said you guyz did a full weld,with skipping around.Do you think just a few tack welds would be ok?Like maybe 4 or 6 of them?
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No, if the metal isn't solid you could potentially get moisture behind the patch, and have rust problems later on. All you have to do is make a series of tacks, all the way around, until its it solid. The actual welding doesn't take near as long as making the patterns and fitting the patches, so I wouldn't rush this step. Even if you had to pay a professional welder, if you do all the prep (making patches, etc) it shouldn't be more than an hour's labor, if that.
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I dont really have any info on shaving the handles (I'm not a body man ... well not good one anyway hehe) but I wanted to tell you guys about a company you can use to integrate the popper solenoid's with your alarm. The company is called AutoLoc and you can visit them at http://www.autoloc.com. AutoLoc is badass because they design alarm systems for show cars with shaved handles and keyless entry systems. I know its possible to get the poppers to work with the Aux ports on most alarms but AutoLoc takes it a step further by integrating everything together from the start. They also have addons for yor system that you can integrate into your setup. Stuff like the one touch window down, or remote window or start. You'll especially want to check these guys out if you want to convert from manual to power windows or locks. I'm not affiliated with them or anything, but they have really good stuff. Thought I'd let you guys know about it.
When I do my 91z I'm definately going with AutoLoc. I plan to shave the doors (locks and handles), as well as install 99 T/A doorpanels on the inside. I'm gonna make everything on the doors electric ... the windows, the locks, and the handle. That way I wont have to deal with relocating the handle on the inside (just go electric!). I'm still on the lookout for the best aftermarket window and lock motors. AutoLoc will be able to provide everything in one system with one remote (and 16 functions!).
When I do my 91z I'm definately going with AutoLoc. I plan to shave the doors (locks and handles), as well as install 99 T/A doorpanels on the inside. I'm gonna make everything on the doors electric ... the windows, the locks, and the handle. That way I wont have to deal with relocating the handle on the inside (just go electric!). I'm still on the lookout for the best aftermarket window and lock motors. AutoLoc will be able to provide everything in one system with one remote (and 16 functions!).
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Im going with shaved door handels myself, Ive got a buddy of mine welding in the sheet metal and doing body filler is easy, the key is not to use to much to keep the smooth look,
summit racing sells the door popers 15 pound kit wicj is good evough for a camaro or firebird a 35 pound kits is used for heavy doors like a caddy or big as trunks. it retails for about $100
and as far as that red firebird goes "i believe its redraifs or somthing like that", I like it its original and originality does more for a car than being the same as everyone else, if you dont like originality then buy a cavalier and join the everyday club. just my opinion on that.
summit racing sells the door popers 15 pound kit wicj is good evough for a camaro or firebird a 35 pound kits is used for heavy doors like a caddy or big as trunks. it retails for about $100
and as far as that red firebird goes "i believe its redraifs or somthing like that", I like it its original and originality does more for a car than being the same as everyone else, if you dont like originality then buy a cavalier and join the everyday club. just my opinion on that.
Last edited by IROC_5796; 11-26-2002 at 03:22 PM.
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I recommend you research different brands of solenoid's before you buy. Depending on where you live, you might want to buy 'better than normal' ones. Remember that these do control weather you get into your car or not. For some people in cold or wet climates, you might want to get solenoid's from AutoLoc because they were designed to resist freezing shut or rusting. I'm going with the 50# kit myself because I daily drive my car (and I dont want to be replacing the solenoid's once a year).
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the only thing im not sure of when it come to the door poppers is how do they pull the handle rod or unlock the door so the latch is realeased when the door goes pop.
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I just curious as to why the hell CERTAIN people have to post their sig EVERY GODDAMN TIME THEY POST IN THE SAME THREAD? We know who the hell you are, and we dont give a ****. Some people are getting tired of the useless clutter that it creates. Please do us a favor and uncheck that little box labled "Show Signature".
I think 1 time per thread is sufficent, not 56.
I think 1 time per thread is sufficent, not 56.
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Originally posted by LT1guy
They were slow even by 80s standards (Turbo Buicks, Mustangs, Vettes, old musclecars, even 2.2 liter FWD Omni GLHs and stuff like that would walk ALL OVER them...I was there, I saw it!), they squeaked, rattled, and had only tape stripes, fake scoops, and borrowed "performance image" from the previous generations. Unless they're a 1LE, Turbo TA, or Firehawk, they're virtually worthless in stock form, so why go to great efforts to make them look stock? [...] Its funny, the main enemy of third gen guys used to be 5.0 Mustangs...I guess losing to them got old, so they started attacking import guys who really don't care about speed.
They were slow even by 80s standards (Turbo Buicks, Mustangs, Vettes, old musclecars, even 2.2 liter FWD Omni GLHs and stuff like that would walk ALL OVER them...I was there, I saw it!), they squeaked, rattled, and had only tape stripes, fake scoops, and borrowed "performance image" from the previous generations. Unless they're a 1LE, Turbo TA, or Firehawk, they're virtually worthless in stock form, so why go to great efforts to make them look stock? [...] Its funny, the main enemy of third gen guys used to be 5.0 Mustangs...I guess losing to them got old, so they started attacking import guys who really don't care about speed.
log this in your infromation file: no '80s mustang, vette, turbo buick or 2.2 fwd dodge omni in stock form can come anywhere close to walking all over my car. and i ain't done yet.
sleepers are boring? not by a long shot. i would agree that sleepers only work if you finish the 1/4 mile before your opponent crosses the 60' line...
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to get back to the topic at hand, does anyone actually know how door poppers werk, I know they pop the doors im looking at how do they open the latch and unlock the door or is the lock disabled, ive been looking for instructions and diagrams on the net but havent found anything.
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Originally posted by IROC_5796
the only thing im not sure of when it come to the door poppers is how do they pull the handle rod or unlock the door so the latch is realeased when the door goes pop.
the only thing im not sure of when it come to the door poppers is how do they pull the handle rod or unlock the door so the latch is realeased when the door goes pop.
So now you have isolated the what and how. You then get the solenoid and find a place to mount it where it lines up with the part of the latch that is pulled/pushed by the connecting rod when you pull the handle. You use the hardware supplied with the kit to and attach it to this lever. With a few test runs you adjust the length and final placement of the solenoid, so it works at its best efficiency. You then add your striker and the door stricker pushes the door open past the door pin when the solenoid engages.
I hope this is clear. It not easy for me to explain without a door here to point to and show you what I mean.
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Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
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Originally posted by 88 WS6 TransAm GTA
I just curious as to why the hell CERTAIN people have to post their sig EVERY ******* TIME THEY POST IN THE SAME THREAD? We know who the hell you are, and we dont give a ****. Some people are getting tired of the useless clutter that it creates. Please do us a favor and uncheck that little box labled "Show Signature".
I think 1 time per thread is sufficent, not 56.
I just curious as to why the hell CERTAIN people have to post their sig EVERY ******* TIME THEY POST IN THE SAME THREAD? We know who the hell you are, and we dont give a ****. Some people are getting tired of the useless clutter that it creates. Please do us a favor and uncheck that little box labled "Show Signature".
I think 1 time per thread is sufficent, not 56.
Last edited by redraif; 11-27-2002 at 09:28 AM.
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IROC_5796:
The setup is pretty simple. There is a spring that is mounted on the body of the car that faces the door. When the door is closed the spring is compressed. When you hit the door open button a solenoid activates the door latch that the handle would normally activate. When the latch is released, the compressed spring pushes the door open a little where you can grab it and open the door the rest of the way.
A door lock just prevents the door handle from being used. You can take the lock mechanism out or leave it in, it doesn't matter. It is no longer needed since the door handle is used.
The setup is pretty simple. There is a spring that is mounted on the body of the car that faces the door. When the door is closed the spring is compressed. When you hit the door open button a solenoid activates the door latch that the handle would normally activate. When the latch is released, the compressed spring pushes the door open a little where you can grab it and open the door the rest of the way.
A door lock just prevents the door handle from being used. You can take the lock mechanism out or leave it in, it doesn't matter. It is no longer needed since the door handle is used.
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Originally posted by jims87camaro
i don't understand the segue. you went from defending your girlfriend's car to attacking all thridgen owners?
log this in your infromation file: no '80s mustang, vette, turbo buick or 2.2 fwd dodge omni in stock form can come anywhere close to walking all over my car. and i ain't done yet.
sleepers are boring? not by a long shot. i would agree that sleepers only work if you finish the 1/4 mile before your opponent crosses the 60' line...
i don't understand the segue. you went from defending your girlfriend's car to attacking all thridgen owners?
log this in your infromation file: no '80s mustang, vette, turbo buick or 2.2 fwd dodge omni in stock form can come anywhere close to walking all over my car. and i ain't done yet.
sleepers are boring? not by a long shot. i would agree that sleepers only work if you finish the 1/4 mile before your opponent crosses the 60' line...
I never said sleepers were boring...if you read the whole post, you'd know that.
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Originally posted by 88 WS6 TransAm GTA
I just curious as to why the hell CERTAIN people have to post their sig EVERY GODDAMN TIME THEY POST IN THE SAME THREAD? We know who the hell you are, and we dont give a ****. Some people are getting tired of the useless clutter that it creates. Please do us a favor and uncheck that little box labled "Show Signature".
I think 1 time per thread is sufficent, not 56.
I just curious as to why the hell CERTAIN people have to post their sig EVERY GODDAMN TIME THEY POST IN THE SAME THREAD? We know who the hell you are, and we dont give a ****. Some people are getting tired of the useless clutter that it creates. Please do us a favor and uncheck that little box labled "Show Signature".
I think 1 time per thread is sufficent, not 56.
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redraif where did you get your solenoid, and what are some decent brand names, i didnt think there would be much of a difference with brand names but someone mentioned it.
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Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
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Originally posted by IROC_5796
redraif where did you get your solenoid, and what are some decent brand names, i didnt think there would be much of a difference with brand names but someone mentioned it.
redraif where did you get your solenoid, and what are some decent brand names, i didnt think there would be much of a difference with brand names but someone mentioned it.
#183
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What sux is i called the place i ordered the kit from(2 weeks ago)expecting it to be there today...and they said becuz of the holiday(US,not canada) it wont be here till NEXT friday,maybe even later!That will be a total of 3 weeks ill have waited then!Sorry ,just had to say that,i really want my kit!lol
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which kit did u get, the part number, just wanted to see if its the one im looking at, how much did everything cost with shipping in canadian dollars.
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weelll,its the 35lb kit from SPAL,i got it at cost for $300 canadian.i didnt have to pay shipping or tax cuz i know the guy.Retail i think was $380 canadian.
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I'm going with a 50# kit. Our doors are heavy compared to the weight of the average hotrod doors these kits are designed for. I want the poppers to last for more than 1 year ....
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50lb poppers may be too much...Redraif's are I believe 25 or 35. You only want enough to pop the door open...if its too strong, you may smack your door into the car beside it in a parking lot. It doesn't take much force to pop a door open an inch or two.
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You guys are killing me. The "pull" rating has nothing to do with how far out the door is going to pop - it has everything to do with the amount of force the solenoid is going to exert on the handle opener mechanism when it "pulls" into the housing. The 35#er's exert 35 pounds of force when the solenoid actuates, 50#er's pull with fifty pounds of force - that's 35 and 50 pounds of force "lifting" the handle so to speak.
The only thing that will force your door open when the solenoids are actuated will be the compressed weatherstripping - OR - a spring loaded door popper, which doesn't have a "force" rating. It's just a big spring that gets compressed when you close the door. A "door popper" is wholely different from a solenoid; it's only purpose is to push the door open a few inches AFTER the solenoid actuates, disengaging the door from the door frame.
Two things, totally different: A) A door popper and B) the solenoid.
Okay, do we see now? The silver thing buried inside my door here is the solenoid. You can even see the steel wire looped around the end of the solenoid that goes up inside the door to pull the handle mechanism down. The little nubby, black rubber snubber you see on the left side of the picture is the door popper; it simply compresses when the door is closed and pushes the door open when released by the solenoid.
Steve
The only thing that will force your door open when the solenoids are actuated will be the compressed weatherstripping - OR - a spring loaded door popper, which doesn't have a "force" rating. It's just a big spring that gets compressed when you close the door. A "door popper" is wholely different from a solenoid; it's only purpose is to push the door open a few inches AFTER the solenoid actuates, disengaging the door from the door frame.
Two things, totally different: A) A door popper and B) the solenoid.
Okay, do we see now? The silver thing buried inside my door here is the solenoid. You can even see the steel wire looped around the end of the solenoid that goes up inside the door to pull the handle mechanism down. The little nubby, black rubber snubber you see on the left side of the picture is the door popper; it simply compresses when the door is closed and pushes the door open when released by the solenoid.
Steve
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Originally posted by redraif
There is an option you can select that will stop the sigs from showing up when you look at a thread. Just a thought if the sigs bother you.
There is an option you can select that will stop the sigs from showing up when you look at a thread. Just a thought if the sigs bother you.
People that have everything they've done to a car down to the factory options and spark plugs listed in thier sig and add it to every post they make in one particular thread gets annoying to scroll past after awhile.
Not b---hin' but, I'm going with 88 WS6 on this... sig. one time is enough per message thread.
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I have also thought about shaving my doorhandles, but the only thing that is stopping me is, when you shaved the handles is the indent where you can slide your hand under the old door handle still there, or do they smooth that out and make it flalt?
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Originally posted by deadbird
Red... I have to agree but, I like seeing peoples sig because I like checking out what others are doing to thier cars (when they have a link or progress pics if they don't have a site).
People that have everything they've done to a car down to the factory options and spark plugs listed in thier sig and add it to every post they make in one particular thread gets annoying to scroll past after awhile.
Not b---hin' but, I'm going with 88 WS6 on this... sig. one time is enough per message thread.
Red... I have to agree but, I like seeing peoples sig because I like checking out what others are doing to thier cars (when they have a link or progress pics if they don't have a site).
People that have everything they've done to a car down to the factory options and spark plugs listed in thier sig and add it to every post they make in one particular thread gets annoying to scroll past after awhile.
Not b---hin' but, I'm going with 88 WS6 on this... sig. one time is enough per message thread.
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Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
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Originally posted by bigpuncp27
I have also thought about shaving my doorhandles, but the only thing that is stopping me is, when you shaved the handles is the indent where you can slide your hand under the old door handle still there, or do they smooth that out and make it flalt?
I have also thought about shaving my doorhandles, but the only thing that is stopping me is, when you shaved the handles is the indent where you can slide your hand under the old door handle still there, or do they smooth that out and make it flalt?
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Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
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The pics did not come out where the plate was put in place and the welding was done. Here is after the welding was ground down:
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Here is after some bondo was used to filll in low spots before the final primer was added.
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Nice pics Redraif,Ive pretty much got all the body work done on the doors now.I cut out plates myself to fit in the grooves and then hauled it all to a body shop.They welded them in no problem at all and only charged me $20 canadian to do it.They even ground it all down after i asked them not to do it cuz i could of done it myself.I wheeled it all home and brought out the bondo to finish it off.I used the long strand fiberglass filler,sanded it down,and then used a final spot putty to fill in the pin holes that occur with the long strand stuff.The doors are now primed and ready for paint.Although,i still havent fully installed the solenoids yet.Cya Graham
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$20 to have a body shop do it? Damn, makes me want to start calling body shops around here. I'm just curious tho, if you've shaved the door handles but haven't installed the solenoids, how do you get in?
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Car: 87 Formula/ 00 Xtreme
Engine: TPI 305/ v6
Transmission: struggling t-5/ 4l60E
Axle/Gears: 3.08/ 3.23
Originally posted by devianb
I don't mind having a visible door handle - I just don't like the way thirdgen's handles are boxy and stick out. Is it possible to make the handle flatter?
I don't mind having a visible door handle - I just don't like the way thirdgen's handles are boxy and stick out. Is it possible to make the handle flatter?
http://www.deadbird.org/a/l10.jpg