dfarr67

iTrader: (2)

I know these questions are beat to death- but everyones combination/application/goal is different. I feel that I'm leaving substantial power on the table.

Have a 1989 chevy 4x4, 700r4 (shifts at 5800, stock converter) 3:73 gears. Long block is a 355cid, 9:1, heads are RHS iron vortec 2.02/1.6 64cc, Flowtech Induction roller cam with 1.6 RR, gross lift I 0.560in E 0.565, 0.050in duration I 210deg E 214deg on 110 lobe sep. The heads limit my options but may also consider the AFR vortec- I'm thinking that where the AFR heads shine is way above my rpm requirements. EBL Flash with WB. Edelbrock TES headers to 3in single. Truck sometimes is used for towing but like once a year- generally unloaded daily driver.

A word about the cam- noisy lobe design with Crower RR, struggling with false knock. When I was first playing with the EBL I had lean condition at idle- no surge but the truck sounded cammed- loved the sound but have since fixed that issue- is there any cams out there that will give that lumpy idle but be actually civilized to the ecu, vacume not a huge issue except for MAP as I'm using Hydroboost? Would prefer to stay away from CC and other 'noisy' lobe/flank style designes. looking to optimize performance from 1000-5700 rpm.

I suppose I have been naive in trusting parts by name in that I am currently running a nicely ported oe TPI plenum, ported oe TB-795cfm, Edel HiFlo runners, Edel vortec base which I basically gasket matched and taken out any casting flash, same with the heads- cleaned them up too with multi angle valve jon and undercut Manley's, beehive springs. I am reading that the 2.02/1.6 valves perhaps don't flow as well as the 1.94/1.5 (laminarly?)- I wouldn't bother to upsize valves in a stock vortec, but assumed RHS as the manufacturer would optimize the larger valves with the rest of the head. Same with Edelbrock manifold and runners- more reading says there is a gain but not as much as I would think.

Options, to my mind are:

Extrude hone the runners and base- will this just take out imperfections or will it actually increase diameter/volume. My reading suggests that it is the runner length that really determines the performance- but the ASM runners have a good reputation. Siamese the upper runner/plenum?

SuperRam- probably a very good choice and can be used with my vortec base- but reading about too many problems with sealing, and try to find one these days.

First Fuel Injection- kind of leaning towards this one- ugly as it is, expensive and no parts interchange to what I have.

HSR- price is attractive and can reuse TB, but feedback is mixed on losing too much bottom end performance.

What do you think or have experiance with? At a certain price point there is the LS 5.3L conversion with a nice cam. There is also the choice to leave well enough alone.

dfarr67

iTrader: (2)

Hi Dave,

I must say I am kind of confused. The FIRST tpi would work good for your project with the exception of the egr. However in your post you state that the FIRST is ugly and expensive but the cost of the base and runner combo you are running would have been over $700 new just for those items alone. With the FIRST tpi you get a real flowing set up instead of the small size parts you are currently running, and for the $995 you get better flowing parts and a real good plenum that you do not need to port and if you get the smaller 71 mm throttle body it flows 835 cfm with out porting. The FIRST is pretty much a copy of the stock tpi look but with a different throttle body and what would you want to interchange with your current stuff on the FIRST anyway? I guess I am confused on how you think that is expensive and if you do not like the looks why you are even interested in our product at all? Besides the performance aspect I guess. I just would not want any one buying something they would not be 100% happy with. With that said, the FIRST is going to generate a ton of torque for you over any other fuel injection manifold out there for sure and it will produce plenty of horse power within the operating range you are after, providing the electronics are properly tuned. I have seen 60 hp picked up by a guy just changing tuners, that is how important tuning knowledge is. I see products get blamed all day long for things that really are not their fault and it usually ends up being other things causing issues. Your existing set up should theoretically perform good already and if you are having a knock issue then why not just eliminate the sensor, I do not ever run a knock sensor on my customer installs or my own vehicles. If the timing tables are properly set you should be good to go without it, Anyway just a though. If you have any other questions please let me know.

Thanks Ken

dfarr67

iTrader: (2)

Moderator- can you shut this thread down- have all the answers I need.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Split personality?? weird..

-- Joe