A suggestion on how to do business with a private party...
#1
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Car: 1987 Z28 Convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5-speed
A suggestion on how to do business with a private party...
I've noticed an influx of people getting taken lately. I've been buying and selling parts for years. My experience has been mostly good, but have been taken a couple of times. But in cases except when I know the other party, I always get anxious after sending money not knowing whether I'm going to get my part(s) or not.
Before commiting to a sale, ask the other party for references. Ask for e-mail addresses of people he's done business with so you can contact them directly -- not through the individual in question.
Secondly, post a message on this board asking for other's experiences with this individual.
Lastly if you don't get any response to the above, I feel I have found the best way to protect yourself. When you don't know who you're dealing with, do the transaction in only one way. The seller must agree to the following:
1) Get the dimensions and weight of the package. Also get the shipper's zip code. Go to the UPS website and get an exact shipping cost.
2) Mail only the shipping cost to the seller and have him/her send the package COD for the amount of the part(s) plus COD charge ($8 I believe).
3) Request a tracking number.
By doing business this way, the seller knows you are serious about the purchase. This also insures to the seller that you will NOT refuse the delivery -- thereby sticking him with the shipping cost.
The only risk on your part by using my method is the shipping cost you send to the seller, which is minimal. I have had great success with this method.
An alternative method is to e-mail a form to the seller similar to:
I (name) agree to purchase (list parts) from (name, address and phone number of seller) for (price). These parts will be shipped via (carrier name) and a tracking number will be supplied at the time of shipment.
Have this form signed, dated and notarized and mailed back to you. Have it mailed because it's important that you have the original. Then proceed with the transaction.
------------------
Willie
Supercharged 1987 305 IROC-Z, Daily-Driver, Emissions-Legal.
Paxton (6-psig): 12.57 @ 111 mph.
Paxton (6-psig) & 50-hp nitrous: 12.04 @ 114 mph.
ATI D1SC (10-psig): ?
http://willie.camaro-firebird.org/
1987 "20th Anniversary Commemorative Edition" Z28 Convertible -- Super Chevy Show Class Winner, 1998.
[This message has been edited by Willie (edited April 08, 2001).]
Before commiting to a sale, ask the other party for references. Ask for e-mail addresses of people he's done business with so you can contact them directly -- not through the individual in question.
Secondly, post a message on this board asking for other's experiences with this individual.
Lastly if you don't get any response to the above, I feel I have found the best way to protect yourself. When you don't know who you're dealing with, do the transaction in only one way. The seller must agree to the following:
1) Get the dimensions and weight of the package. Also get the shipper's zip code. Go to the UPS website and get an exact shipping cost.
2) Mail only the shipping cost to the seller and have him/her send the package COD for the amount of the part(s) plus COD charge ($8 I believe).
3) Request a tracking number.
By doing business this way, the seller knows you are serious about the purchase. This also insures to the seller that you will NOT refuse the delivery -- thereby sticking him with the shipping cost.
The only risk on your part by using my method is the shipping cost you send to the seller, which is minimal. I have had great success with this method.
An alternative method is to e-mail a form to the seller similar to:
I (name) agree to purchase (list parts) from (name, address and phone number of seller) for (price). These parts will be shipped via (carrier name) and a tracking number will be supplied at the time of shipment.
Have this form signed, dated and notarized and mailed back to you. Have it mailed because it's important that you have the original. Then proceed with the transaction.
------------------
Willie
Supercharged 1987 305 IROC-Z, Daily-Driver, Emissions-Legal.
Paxton (6-psig): 12.57 @ 111 mph.
Paxton (6-psig) & 50-hp nitrous: 12.04 @ 114 mph.
ATI D1SC (10-psig): ?
http://willie.camaro-firebird.org/
1987 "20th Anniversary Commemorative Edition" Z28 Convertible -- Super Chevy Show Class Winner, 1998.
[This message has been edited by Willie (edited April 08, 2001).]
#2
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Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: New Mexico
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Car: 85 Mercedes 500SEL
Engine: 5.0 DOHC
Great advice Willie, thanks!
------------------
85 IROC,LB9,t-tops,hard loaded,black with red Lear-Siegler "Camaro" interior,MacEwen white guages,145 speedo,decal delete,91 Bose stereo,stage 2 Fastchip,AFPR,airfoil,K&Ns,March pulleys,alum. driveshaft&spare,92 police version 700r4.
On the list: BW 3.27 posi,89 PBR rear discs,140a police alt,coated TES,glass hood,aluminum front bumper brace
"Use overdrive for high speed pursuit"
------------------
85 IROC,LB9,t-tops,hard loaded,black with red Lear-Siegler "Camaro" interior,MacEwen white guages,145 speedo,decal delete,91 Bose stereo,stage 2 Fastchip,AFPR,airfoil,K&Ns,March pulleys,alum. driveshaft&spare,92 police version 700r4.
On the list: BW 3.27 posi,89 PBR rear discs,140a police alt,coated TES,glass hood,aluminum front bumper brace
"Use overdrive for high speed pursuit"
#4
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I suggest you use www.Escrow.com they ensure a safe honest transaction for a nominal fee, it's worth the piece of mind.
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