POR-15 [i]PUTTY[/i]
03-13-2002, 04:41 PM
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POR-15 [i]PUTTY[/i]
OK, I have a rusty lil lock. And there is a small crack - I have no money. So, I ordered some POR-15. Now, I am planning on using the POR putty to 'fix' the small crack. My question is should I use the metal etch, then the putty, then por-15, or not use the por-15 on the putty, just prime the putty? Thanks in advance!
03-13-2002, 05:20 PM
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You really need to find a friend with a welder. Or you could take it to a body shop and have them weld it for you then finish the repair yourself. Just my opinion but it would be perminant not just a cover up. If you insist on using the Por-15 then take off the inner door panel and apply it from the back side and use some fiberglass cloth in with it. then do the same on the outside. This will give the weak area more strength and might hold up for a little while longer than just using the putty and paint.
Steve
Steve
03-13-2002, 05:24 PM
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The way I see it is this - I dont weld (dont have welder, nor do I have access to one). Non of my freinds do either.... 
Body shop wants 800 fer it....no. So I go the cheap route - when it fails (maybe a year, maybe more, or less...), I'll reskin/replace door. **** it.
Body shop wants 800 fer it....no. So I go the cheap route - when it fails (maybe a year, maybe more, or less...), I'll reskin/replace door. **** it.
03-13-2002, 05:29 PM
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One other place you might check on is a muffler shop, they should be able to do it if their willing. If they say yes then take the lock out and pregrind the area to be fixed and a little extra so you know you got all the bad cracks fixed.
03-13-2002, 06:24 PM
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Well, its not very easy to see in picture - but its just one small crack. I figure if I use POR-15 and reinforce the back side with the putty (they claim its very strong, and I havent heard anything about that company for me not to believe them...), I figure that should be enough to stiffen the area, and prevent further cracking. If it isnt - I guess I'll have to reskin door... But if this works, I think it would be a nice lil into for body work...
03-13-2002, 06:35 PM
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I guess it must be the picture. I thought there were two cracks. One by the lock and another under it an inch or two. I hope the Por-15 works well for you and you don't have to reskin or replace your door.
Steve
Steve
03-13-2002, 06:39 PM
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I can see what you mean - thats just the depth of the enamel paint (I hate that damned spot). I have only heard good things about POR-15, and I will post my experiences...but untill I can find time and a place inside to do this - you will just have to wait! 
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03-14-2002, 06:43 AM
#8
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That is one serious rust spot.
First thing I'd do is dry the car off....just kidding!!
I'd remove the lock and handle and grind down all the rust.
Unfortunatly that area is highly stressed. It gets pulled
every time you open the door. Welding it up would be the best solution. You might try bonding a piece of sheetmetal to the back side (epoxy) Then seal off the ground down rusted area with a rust converter or Por15. I doubt if the puddy will fill that crack.
but you may be able to bond another piece of metal over it
and then fill the area (over the cured rust converter {por-15}
I would not use the metal etch (it will exite any remaining rust
after you grind it down) The remaining rust is converted to FeO3
{a cemicaliy inert different kind of oxide} by the rust converter.
The metal etch is used to clean new metal and cemically roughen it so primer will stick.
You could do an acceptible paint color blend job with a color match spray can (lacquer) and either machine buff it in (24 hrs) or clearcoat the door.
If you chose to color blend and then clear the door at home,
de-shine the clearcoat with either 1200 wet sanding or use a grey
scotchbrite pad with Comet and water. (mild abrasive)
so the new clear won't peal off.
First thing I'd do is dry the car off....just kidding!!
I'd remove the lock and handle and grind down all the rust.
Unfortunatly that area is highly stressed. It gets pulled
every time you open the door. Welding it up would be the best solution. You might try bonding a piece of sheetmetal to the back side (epoxy) Then seal off the ground down rusted area with a rust converter or Por15. I doubt if the puddy will fill that crack.
but you may be able to bond another piece of metal over it
and then fill the area (over the cured rust converter {por-15}
I would not use the metal etch (it will exite any remaining rust
after you grind it down) The remaining rust is converted to FeO3
{a cemicaliy inert different kind of oxide} by the rust converter.
The metal etch is used to clean new metal and cemically roughen it so primer will stick.
You could do an acceptible paint color blend job with a color match spray can (lacquer) and either machine buff it in (24 hrs) or clearcoat the door.
If you chose to color blend and then clear the door at home,
de-shine the clearcoat with either 1200 wet sanding or use a grey
scotchbrite pad with Comet and water. (mild abrasive)
so the new clear won't peal off.
03-20-2002, 07:01 AM
#11
I have used the POR-15 products including the putty a few times. I had a previous car (non F-body) that had a rotted rust hole across the entire fire wall from one side of the car to the other (at a body seam). Every time it rained I had about 2 inches of water in the car. Since the hole was up under the dash, I could not get mechanical tools to it without pulling the engine or ripping out the dash (not an option on this car). I scrubbed the rust with the wire brush, used their metal prep (per instructions), coated the area (both sides) with POR-15, added the fabric, and then after it all dried, applied the putty. That is strong stuff and it dries rock hard. Keep your hands wet and smooth it out before it dries. Watch out for the water that drips off. If it dries where it lands, it leaves a cream colored spot (dried putty) that does not come off. Afterward I painted over everything. Couldn't tell the work had been done! I drove the car for a few more months before selling it and the putty never cracked even though the hole was about 1/2 inch wide and 3 feet long.
I used quite a number of POR-15 products over the years on that car. They do what they say they will IF you apply then correctly per the instructions. At worst case, they buy you about 4+ more years before it starts to not look so good.
I used quite a number of POR-15 products over the years on that car. They do what they say they will IF you apply then correctly per the instructions. At worst case, they buy you about 4+ more years before it starts to not look so good.
03-20-2002, 07:44 AM
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Great to here that!! Also, thanx fer answering a lingering question I havent been able to find an answer to - when to apply the putty (I didnt knwop where to put it over the POR-15, or POR-15 over the putty!). I hope it works as good for me, as it did for you! thanks
03-22-2002, 12:36 AM
#13
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Originally posted by chevy2ss
first thing i would do is go to the junkyard and spend 20 bucks ona rot free door!
first thing i would do is go to the junkyard and spend 20 bucks ona rot free door!
03-25-2002, 05:29 PM
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Car: 89' T/A, 00' Firehawk
Engine: 406 Roller
Transmission: TH700R4 w/2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi
IMO, wouldnt it just be easier to get a door from the junkyard and have it sprayed? Because no matter what you do there the door is still going to be bad, unless you put a new skin on it, and I would get a good door from the junkyard before I would go through all that trouble. The door on my T/A was rusted really bad behind the trim in the middle of the door, there was no way I was going to leave it that way or attempt to fix it. I have no idea how much doors are around you area, but they are 30 bucks from a u pull it around here, and not for sure from the others. just my .02
03-25-2002, 09:40 PM
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I am looking to buy probably a truck, but if I see a nice, big car, I may think about it (actaully, a friend of a freind is selling their S10, so I am waitng for info...). BTW, I am selling my car fer $3,000. pics http://community.webshots.com/user/buck268 email me with questions! 
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