tpivette89

just wondering if anyone has experienced any driveability problems after removing the screens on their MAF sensor? ive heard the screens direct airflow into the sensor itself, and idle quality can deminish, as well as shorten the life of the sensor. Finally, i was wondering how i get the metal rings, that seem to be stuck inside the sensor, out. Thanks

AGRESSIVE RACER

I took mine out and have had no problems. They flow better and will have no problems if you have a good filter on your car. I left the rings in after every little peace of the screens were gone.

rhuarc30

If you look real close you'll see that you can pry off the metal rings you'll think you're breaking the thing (and basically you are ) but your just breaking off a small plastic ring. No big deal either way, as long as the you get a clean edge.
John

Dragula

For even better flow you can get in there and CAREFULLY cut down the heat sink cooling fins. This will work if you live in a mild climate. Since I live in Texas where the temperature routinely peaks the upper 90's and 100's, I left my fins alone.

89BlueTA

I took the screens and fins out of my MAF and have had no problems.

Nick

P J Moran

I removed my screens when the car was new. I have had no real problems, since. Now that I'm doing PROMs, I see where the MAF tables are off a little, and the screen removal could be part of the reason why. Once in closed loop, it's a non-issue.

I want my screens back, though. So if anyone has a truly good, unaltered, Bosch MAF sensor for an '87, I will gladly trade them even up for my screenless one.

88TPI406GTA

PJ:

What year code are you running? $32B or $6E? The reason I bring this up is that the MAF scalar tables and overall MAF operation seem to be much better with the $6E code.

I am happy to hear that you haven't experienced any immediate failure (like many have stated) because removing the screens shouldn't be an issue.

I wouldn't put the screens back on, simply tune and resolve the issue. Is it only in open loop then? Maybe this should be a post in the DIY=PROM board.

P J Moran

'89 $6E. I have adjusted my tables and all is well. There has been much discussion on other boards (Tech/General Engine and TPI) about the effects of removing the screens. It seems that they also stabilize the airflow for more accurate readings at the sensor. Their removal does not really improve power.

Considering the secondary benefit of hot wire protection, I'd rather run with the screens.

88TPI406GTA

Ooohhh...I am going to have to disagree with you on that statement. Maybe you didn't notice a difference on a stock 5.7L, but on my 406 (roughly 375HP) with a SR, I am sure it will be a difference. Although i am going to remove the screens in conjunction with removing the stock airbox as it is really restrictive too. After reading the TPIS Insiders book, I feel that the flow amount is affected by a higher HP engine...maybe not really needed on a stock engine.

You may want to consider modding your airbox if you haven't already.

P J Moran

You're not actually disagreeing with me - that's just the consensus I gathered from reading the other boards for quite some time, now. I tend to agree, though. It just looks like removing the screens would help - it's got to, right? Turns out, actually no.

Since mine's a daily driver, I'm not willing to risk MAF problems by gutting the airbox and removing the screens. Mine's hardly stock, but the power band is still below 5000 rpm, so intake airflow restriction is not a problem. The tuned ports are the limiting factor. A dramatic change of inductions systems (such as SR) changes the whole picture. Removing the screens might do some good in that case.

My offer's still on the table for swapping MAF sensors...

I8AStang

I'm doing a tpi 383 using an 89 MAF computer and doing my own programming, and I removed the screens and fins. I haven't had the car running, the reason I did it is to intentionally alter the calibrations so I don't run out of table in the ecm (they stop at 255 gram/s). After talking to tpis (after doing this you have their ported sensor) they confirmed that was what you are doing, and normally it leans the car out by the amount you want if you leave the tables alone. I'm tuning it on a dyno when I get it going, so I will confirm if this is true or not. For those who have looked at the values afterward, how much was the computer compensating? I did the same thing to the MAF in my fourth gen (useless, didn't know anybetter, stock they are calibrated to 400gram/s) and didn't encounter anyproblems even 60k miles later.

crazybird

vf