synthetic 10w-30 with Mobil 1

 

mobil 1

 

As soon as I get the thing started and the cam break in done the '54 GMC will run Mobil 1 10w-30. The '88 Camaro I run Mobil 5000 10w-40 and the '95 Tacoma is on Mobil 5000 10w-30. I run Baldwin filters. When I get an LS in my camaro it will run Mobil 1.

I was impressed while I worked changing oil when Mobil 1 cars came in and the oil was only slightly darker coming out than it was going in. Much better than the penzoil cars that the oil turned to gel and none came out.

Baldwin makes some of Caterpillers filters and won't sell a filter if it doesn't meet or exceeds manufacturer specs. I get them through work (a Kenworth dealer.) For the 2.8 tall filter the number is B35-S

 

Just started using Mobil One 0W-30. So far so good.

 

When I read "DINO", does that mean dinosaur? I hope you don't believe oil comes from dinosaurs. BP drilled a mile down. How'd the dino's get there?

Kentucky can be a high humidity area. Oil specifications there will be different than California. The main thing to remember when it comes to multi viscosity oils, is that the first number...say 10W means 10 weight oil. the sencond number....say 30 means the additives gives it 30 weight properties (acts like 30 weight). As the oil gets old the viscosity goes lower until it gets to the original 10 weight. That's the reason to change oil regularly. So if you want lighter oil, 5W, 10W, 15W, and heavier 20W or even straight 30w or 40W. Just depends on the area in the country you live in and the weather in your local area that you drive in. The colder it gets you need a ligher oil, and the warmer it gets you need a heavier oil, hence the 10W30, or 5W20, or 5W30, or 20W50, for all season snow and high heat.

 

Were dose oil come from ? This is a interesting read = http://www.priweb.org/ed/pgws/system...e/capture.html
That is " if " your interested .

 

The "Most scientists agree" and "generally thought to be" still makes it a theory.

 

Actually the multi viscosity rating goes like this: 10W means when it is cold (W for winter) the oil flows like oil with a viscosity rating of 10 and when it is warm it flows with a rating of 30. The W meaning weight is one of those myths that hang on.

 

Royal Purple http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqvhRi7-iMA&feature=fvw

its dry as a bone here...pray for rain

 

purple filter http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=floUZ...eature=channel

 

I use Royal Purple's 5W-30 with a K&N Oil Filter.

 

I deal with this debate everyday since i work for an oil distributor and in my experience there are way too many variables to claim a single. Yes you have a list of better oils that are easy to pick out but there is no best. Every little factor from the weather to the octane rating on your fuel affects your oil in some way.

With that said you just need to find what you feel to be the best oil for your car. If you think what your running is crap try something else. Never buy an oil and run it cause someone else told you it was best.

To pick an oil just find the manufacturers recommended viscosity and build from there on what need. If you live in climate that hot most of time go thicker if its cold go thinner. If you run your engine at high rpms go with a performance oil. The more you break down your needs the easier it will be to find your oil.

 

I run Rastoil synthetic (10W40) for my engine , and Rastoil ATF DEXRON 3 for trans, both are good quality and reasonably cheap.

 

Brad Penn 10W30 Racing in 'roc.

Kendall 10W30 in the Volvo; Amsoil for PS/ATF.

Quaker State in the Honda; Amsoil ATF in the tranny.

Just started using Amsoil products; man, what a difference!!! Thought the Volvo could not shift any smoother...I was wrong!!! Of course, it helps that this is the first ATF change in 200km.

P.S. 200km ATF reeeeeeeeeeeks....the whole house stinks of it.

 

[quote=Vinitine;4683648]

you wrote alot of words and none of them said anything...
I guess the royal purple video that I posted a link to means nothing as well

 

Runing AMSOIL 0W-30 with AMSOIL filters in 84 T/A, 01 Alero and 05 Avalanche.

 

i work at a lexus dealership. i use toyota 5w30 oil. been using it since i bought the car 3 years ago..no issues. oil changes cost me $5 since i only buy filter...do it on the lift at work in the shop

 

I run AMSOIL Synthetics in everything I own.

As a side note...

I have a rather large landscaping business. I ran AMSOIL in the weed whackers/lawn mowers/blowers/ect. The machines are gone through annually and had frequent oil changes based on hours run. I switched to the cheap Autozone stuff on the assumption that it was changed often enough to not matter. I was getting 3 oil changes for the price of what one good oil change would be.

On tear downs after that first year...

I was amazed at the difference on the internals, especially the rings and pistons on the 2 stroke engines. This was with different brands of cheap oil too. The 4 strokes didn't seem to suffer as much but there was a noticable difference. Before, I could get away with a ball hone and some new rings and call it a day on the good stuff.

So to sum it up I now run the "good stuff" which of course costs a little more but I'm not having to replace pistons annually plus I can extend the oil change interval a little longer on the 4 strokes with no adverse effects.

Better quality oil = less wear and tear + longer service intervals.

Cheaper oil = more wear and tear + shorter service intervals.

 

I use Mobil one 10W -30 and WIX filters.

 

Been using Amsoil Synthetic 5W-30 oil for quite some time now, but recently tried a new oil that was recommened to me.

Just changed the Oil and Gear Oil to LAT High Performance Oil:

http://latracingoils.com/

TA runs great. Its abit pricey though as compared to Amsoil.

 

What does the user manual says about oil sae grade for a 87 camaro (LG4)?I haven't got it, and I'm Italy, so I'll use the correct one (5w30, 10w30, 15w50).

 

i have been using castrolGTX in everything since the early 80s but now i aso have to add ZDDP to keep the cam alive, thanks epa

 

5 or 10w30. 10w30 is what my owners manual says to use in my 84. Good rule of thumb, 10W30 was the standard for so long, you can't go wrong with it. In really cold climates, you can use 5w30 for the winter and 10w30 for the summer if you want but 10W30 will work all year round.

 

i would not go with a synthetic oil at all i had a 89 gmc jimmy with 250,xxx miles heard all these good things about the synthetic oils tryd it with in 2 weeks it had a steady trail of smoke goin down the road.
wen a vehicle has that meny miles id look for a Valvoline non detergent the synthetics have a lot of detergent and wen you take all the carbon out of the rings alot of the time the carbon is what seals up that motor

 

All that does is show you where your engine needs work! On a less mileage engine I can't recommend synthetic enough. Way more benefits than drawbacks.

 

Hi:

Well the Owners manual for my Pontiac Firebird Trans Am with a LG4 says 10w-30 to 5W-30 depending on climate conditions in your area.

I use 5W-30 synthetic weight, seems really good for my TA, but I do not drive in the winter time, I store it till spring.

Amsoil is a really good oil to use, but have been using LAT High Performance synthetic 5W-30 oil that I really like. Abit expensive though, but well worth it in my opinion.

I have tried many oils from Royal Purple to Red line to Mobil One, always have gone back to Amsoil 5w-30 for all of my other cars.

Hope this Helps

Rob

 

I have used 2 oils in my lifetime: Castrol GTX or Royal Purple synthetic. Never had any problems with either oil. Castrol is dang good oil, and Royal Purple is even better.

 

Never changed my oil. I have always used Castrol. Seriously though, I run Castrol, and Royal Purple.

 

 

iv always heard nothing good about castrol. id like to see john force actually use it lol. but mobile and valvoline are realy good from what iv experienced and heard. deffinatly wix oil filter, and AC delco

 

I used to love Castrol Syntech but it's just too expensive now. In reality, all synthetic oil is really the same, might as well go with the cheapest. The filter is a bigger issue. Go to wal mart and pick up some SuperTech synthetic and Purelator or SuperTech(Bosch) oil filter and you'll be set. No sense spending more on nothing but a name, unless it's amsoil or royal purple after a complete rebuild.

 

SuperTech oil is fine. But their filters suck.

SuperTech oil filters are/were made by Champion, the same guys that make ACDelco. The local WM doesn't carry SuperTech filters anymore. Nothing but Frams, Purolator and Bosch Distance Plus.

If it's a SuperTech E-Core design, I'd rather install a Fram.

This SuperTech came off my '98 LS400. See the torn media? Yes, that's a hole in the media.



If this little flap of media gets loose, there's nothing to keep it from circulating around in the oil galleries.

Here's another look at the same filter:



Here's one that came off my '92 Lumina:



Same plastic cage from the filter above. Injection molding issue:



I removed these filters from my cars a few days apart. After I changed the oil/filter in the LS400, I got paranoid and took the filter off the Lumina.

I used one of these to cut them open:

http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...=1043&catid=17

 

that's crazy it was my understanding that the ones they had were Bosch, but now that I think about it that might have been a long time ago since I remember hearing they were Champion.

I ALWAYS go with purolator though, no exceptions.

 

Just changed mine to 5-30 Synthetic, so far so good!

 

I've always used Royal Purple in all my vehicles/motorcycles and even the lawn mower.

Aside from being a bit more pricey, I'm very happy with their products.

 

I use penzoil in my mom's subaru baja with good results, I tried castrol in my car but it ran noticebly slower so I just use the Napa performance 5W-30 and that works fine...I may try Royal Purple next (1500mi to go).

 

Anybody use quakerstate 10w 30 I have that in my 84 right now

 

Where can one get Amsoil? Advance Auto / Pep Boys?

 

I'm sure you can get it online. I've never seen it in stores, I just know you can order it from catalogs, Jeg's has it. Try auto parts stores (and expect to be wallet-raped).

 

http://www.amsoil.com/

 

I only ever use 10W-30 Brad Penn Racing Oil in my Camaro. Ridiculously good oil with zinc already added. Runs about $6.95/qt now.

 

After tearing down many diesel engines and a few gas engines that ran quaker state dino I would never use QS. I don't know about their syn.

 

Definitely Mobil One 5w30 Synthetic with the AC Delco Oil Filter every 2000 miles. I know its overkill but I call it cheap insurance on my engine. Espicially after the full rebuild and upgrading. I do that with all my cars though.

 

I used 5-30 Havoline (cheap) to break in my new parts of my L98, Then after 1k I switched to Mobil One 5-30 synthetic and a AC Delco filter. It makes life simple as it is the same stuff I use in the Corvette. I did notice a difference when I switched.

 

Brad Penn and Wix filters.

 

Rotella T6 5w-40 (pressure is kinda high, but it keeps my lifters quiet). Wix filters.

 

Royal Purple 10W-30
K&N Gold Filter

Plans are to switch to a Royal Purple filter after my first change. I had purchased the K&N before Royal Purple came out with theirs. Figure if I use their oil, why not their filters.

But I am and have been heavily thinking about doing an AMSOIL dual filter setup. So if not Royal Purple, I like AMSOIL, I've literally never heard one bad remark about AMSOIL, as opposed to every other brand of oil having at least one person ripping it apart. Must be a reason though.

Have fun and just be sure to keep an eye on your oil. I don't change my oil unless I see a heavy color change or exceed the recommended interval by Royal Purple, or whomever I use.

 

I've worked in several part stores so I hear customer opinions as well as commercial accounts all day long.
Figure I'll throw in my two cents:

I use valvoline and a puralator filter and have had good luck. Once I do a rebuild I will more than likely run Royal Purple but can't justify spending triple the cost right now.

In the past few years most the customers running Quaker State have stopped using it stating all kinds of issues. Mainly just that its **** lol.

Lastly I've heard switching to Syn is fine however expect any sludge in your engine to come out on the next oil change. And never switch to syn and then back to dino because thats when you have the nightmares people who switch to syn talk about.

again just my .02 cents take it or leave it

 

You've never talked to me, apparently. I HATE AMSOIL. I have had nothing but bad luck with it, and will not ever run it in any vehicle I own. To make a long story short, it caused a spun main bearing, destroying the engine.