Solid or hydraulic roller
#1
Solid or hydraulic roller
I am building a 434 fully forged smallblock with 10:1 compression supercomp headers afr 210 heads and a single plane intake topped off with a holley 750. The only think i can't decide is whether to run a solid or hydraulic roller. It will be street driven, but not a commuter only on the weekends if the weather is good and i have time so its not to and from work or anything.
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Car: 1984 Firebird T/A
Engine: 406sbc
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: Moser 9"
Re: Solid or hydraulic roller
I'm going to be running a 406 with 13:1 compression AFR 210's and a solid roller. Theyre not that bad on the streets if you get a good valvetrain to fgo with it. I know people who only have to adjust valve lash every year or so.
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Car: 1986 Pontiac TA
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.70
Re: Solid or hydraulic roller
I've been running a solid roller for the last 6 years. I do not find that I loose lash. I set the valves once a year in the spring.
I went from a HR to SR on my 383 and the motor acted like it was on nitrous above 5000! I now have a 406 with SR and the performance is outstanding.
I highly recommend using a stud girdle and the Comp Endure X lifters.
www.geocities.com/dzperf
I went from a HR to SR on my 383 and the motor acted like it was on nitrous above 5000! I now have a 406 with SR and the performance is outstanding.
I highly recommend using a stud girdle and the Comp Endure X lifters.
www.geocities.com/dzperf
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Car: 86 Iroc Z
Engine: 406
Transmission: 350 Turbo
Axle/Gears: 373
Re: Solid or hydraulic roller
I'd be 1 of those guys to since I got my stud girdles. I love my solid cam and wouldn't go back to anything else.
#7
Re: Solid or hydraulic roller
I've had both solid and hydraulic cams, which one is right for you really depends on what you want to do with the car. If its mostly a driver that won't see much track time and you don't want any extra maintenance then hyd is the way to go. If maximum performance is most important and you don't mind checking your valve lash a couple times a year then go with the solid. The solid cam will make more power and like the others have said if you have good quality valve train parts you won't have to adjust lash often. Solid cams rev quicker,higher and make more power. If you end up going with a solid cam I would recommend shaft mounted rockers, they are worth the extra cost in my opinion. I've had great luck with my solid roller and shaft mounted rockers, one of the best things I've done with my combo.
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#8
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Re: Solid or hydraulic roller
i agree.........one of the best things I've ever done was go to a solid roller haha......if you want to play about 6500rpm its the only way to go......but like others have said, get good studs, good rockers and girdles if you don't have shaft rockers.
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131, 210, 383, afr, compreassion, f1r, hydraulic, procharged, procharger, roller, run, solid, street