TPIS PROM
#3
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Car: 1989 Pontiac trans-am
Engine: building a 400
Transmission: 700r4
I have they are pricey I'm thinking about getting another one for my new engine only because I don't have the nads to program my first chip and then start my new engine for the first time with it. the last chip I had worked ok nothing great if I get another I'll just plan on sending back a couple of times to get it fine tuned.
#4
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Car: 1987 Black IROC-Z (SOLD)
Try www.fastchip.com Ed Wrights are best unless you can do your own.
#5
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Bartlett IL
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Car: 1989 Formula 350
Engine: 350 fuel injected
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/370 gears
I have a TPIS chip, works good but if I had to do it again I would burn my own. I bought my prom before becoming a member of TGO.
#6
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: sweden
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Car: GTA -89
Engine: Blown 415"
Transmission: 4L80E
Axle/Gears: Strange 12-bolt
Dont buy it!
In -98 I changed cam/heads/intake/headers/MSD and so on on my car. Bought a custom chip from T++S, then the car was hard to start, and sometimes impossible...T++S here in sweden told me it was nothing in the chip and have to be something else... I removed the MSD ( soldered ) but nothing changed..... Then I bought a Accel DFI and then I learned to do my own proms. I looked in the Custom made chip from TPIS ( costed me 1000$ at that time here in sweden!) and the changes was
- SA table (taken from a manual car)
- fans
- TCC lock up
- and some other minor changes,nothing on the fueling side!
and it was $32Bcode..... correct code for my -89 would have been 6E.....
no, never again T++S... never..never ....ever...
In -98 I changed cam/heads/intake/headers/MSD and so on on my car. Bought a custom chip from T++S, then the car was hard to start, and sometimes impossible...T++S here in sweden told me it was nothing in the chip and have to be something else... I removed the MSD ( soldered ) but nothing changed..... Then I bought a Accel DFI and then I learned to do my own proms. I looked in the Custom made chip from TPIS ( costed me 1000$ at that time here in sweden!) and the changes was
- SA table (taken from a manual car)
- fans
- TCC lock up
- and some other minor changes,nothing on the fueling side!
and it was $32Bcode..... correct code for my -89 would have been 6E.....
no, never again T++S... never..never ....ever...
#7
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Car: 1988 firbird formula
Engine: 5.7l pony eater
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 4.10
yeah, i called and asked about it and they just said you need a stage 4 chip.... didnt ask specs.
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#8
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Car: Death Mobile
Engine: 666 c.i.
I notice you have a MAF car, that's both good & bad from a prom point of view. But you may well consider just learning how to do it yourself.
If you are NOT maxing the MAF, what changes you might make to the eprom will be relatively minor compared to an SD eprom. However, to obtain an optimal eprom, you will primarily need to concentrate on the spark tables, something a "custom eprom writer" will try not to do.
The eprom writer will tend to be "loose" on his spark parameters because he will not want you to come back complaining of detonation (nor wish to risk possibly damaging your engine). They would rather do that and leave 25-30HP behind than having to constantly fiddle with the spark curve to find the optimum point where anymore spark and you start to detonate (the usual place where max HP is obtained).
If you ARE maxing the MAF, then you will need a WB to tune the fueling in P/E to ensure you are not too lean. Without a proper WB reading NO ONE can properly tune your WOT. Everything is just a guess.
But since you are MAF, it wouldn't be too late to consider burning your own eproms. Only when you have a significantly modified engine with SD is it maybe a bit much to consider learning how to burn your own eproms for the first time IMO (though some have done that too).
If you are NOT maxing the MAF, what changes you might make to the eprom will be relatively minor compared to an SD eprom. However, to obtain an optimal eprom, you will primarily need to concentrate on the spark tables, something a "custom eprom writer" will try not to do.
The eprom writer will tend to be "loose" on his spark parameters because he will not want you to come back complaining of detonation (nor wish to risk possibly damaging your engine). They would rather do that and leave 25-30HP behind than having to constantly fiddle with the spark curve to find the optimum point where anymore spark and you start to detonate (the usual place where max HP is obtained).
If you ARE maxing the MAF, then you will need a WB to tune the fueling in P/E to ensure you are not too lean. Without a proper WB reading NO ONE can properly tune your WOT. Everything is just a guess.
But since you are MAF, it wouldn't be too late to consider burning your own eproms. Only when you have a significantly modified engine with SD is it maybe a bit much to consider learning how to burn your own eproms for the first time IMO (though some have done that too).
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