Xlr8torZ28

iTrader: (19)

I was just curious what brand synthetic you guys are using. I have been using Mobile 1 for over 10 years and I am thinking about changing to Royal Purple on my new motor.

92 Formula

iTrader: (2)

Redline Oil for everything I care about.

1991 RS/SS

Amsoil in my vehicles. (Series 2000 0w30 in the Camaro and XL7500 5w30 in the Jeep, both with Amsoil EA filters)

Psycho_91Camaro

Ever since I was a youngin I liked the V for Valvoline the blue and red I love!!! so I only use on my camaro 10W30 SYNPOWER for my engine!!

rmchugh

mobil one is all ill put in. ever.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Mobil 1 throughout.

JamesC

Bull

iTrader: (5)

Mobil 1.

1FastZ

Castrol Synthetic is all I use.

ThirdGenLS1

amsoil here

'Shifter

iTrader: (2)

Auggie

Well, if your engine has a flat tappet cam setup don't us synthetic oils. Roller cams OK.

Auggie
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Test

1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

Mobile One throughout.

Red Devil

(Disclaimer: I am an Independant Amsoil Dealer)

Amsoil and Mobil one. I used to use Red Line a bit, but between Red Line and Royal Purple, neither give you the warranty that Amsoil does. I've been using it in some newer cars, so having a company that will actually contact the dealers for you rather than telling you to deal with it is worth it for me and my customers. The Mobil 1 I'll use on occasion if I'm in a rush or a client wants that, but most like the fact that they only have to see my ugly mug as little as possible.

BUT (I hope I don't get yelled at for this) I do not use Amsoil air filters. I am a die hard proponant of paper air filters. For almost every long term application.

Though I still use RL Water Wetter in just about every engine I get to work on. I haven't used anything that gets better results.

Formulabruce

Royal Purple!

remember never use synthetics on newly built engines, most have ZERO Zinc!!

Auggie

Zero "Zinc" and zero "Manganese". It's an EPA thing.

Auggie

Xlr8torZ28

iTrader: (19)

Corvettes roll off the line with Mobil 1 synthetic...
I am probably going to stick with Mobil 1 since it has never let me down...

Formulabruce

those motors have zinc additives, and they are well broken in at delivery.
There are a couple different Mobil 1 synthetics now, a regular and super syn. Care to comment on them anyone? differences??

freestylzz

Mobil 1.

But considering switching to Castrol Syntec.


I find the Amsoil, Royal Purple, and Red Line slightly pricier.

It's all good as long as you change it at regular intervals (or when needed).

Bull

iTrader: (5)

Have to modify my previous answer a bit.

Just got back from NAPA. Had a case of Mobil 1 in hand, when I noticed that NAPA has their own line of fully synthetic oil. Apparently, it is made by Castrol or Valvoline (can't remember what the guy told me), and it is significantly less expensive. Decided to give it a shot.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

You have to be careful these days. Don't think that all synthetics are created equal. With today's loose labeling laws, anybody can call their re-refined petroleum "synthetic", and most of them are doing it. AMSOIL, Mobil 1, Red Line, and Royal Purple have true PAO-based synthetics. The rest (typically) don't. Even AMSOIL and Mobil 1 have non-PAO synthetics, so know what you're buying.

Personally, I use AMSOIL Series 3000 HDD 5W-30 in my flat-tappet engines, and AMSOIL 10W-30 in roller tappet engines. Plus their ATF and gear lubes, greases, and fuel additive.

AMSOIL is going away from their oiled foam air filters because of mass air flow sensor issues. Their new Ea filters will out perform any paper filter for air flow and particulate trapping.

(Disclaimer: Also an independant AMSOIL dealer, since 1983.)

Bull

iTrader: (5)

Five7, thanks for the info. How can you tell, then, from the bottles whether the product is a "real" synthetic?

whoaru99

Amsoil and Mobil 1

rmchugh

a long while ago i remember reading in road and track, or motor trend or one of those mags that , not all synthetics are full synthetics. i had asked at the local speed shop, in fact its true! at the time the only name that was a true "fully sysnthetic" was mobil one. i sware off every other brand that made a synthetic , i used to use castro syntic " fully synthetic" only to learn that castro specificly isnt totaly synthetic. i felt like they were labling a product falsly. where as mobil one was true to its product and customer. as far as seeing whats out on the market nowadays, i have this thing about loyalty. mobil one has done good by me, ill stick with them!

Red Devil

Oh hell no. You forgot Amsoil. And iirc there were a few other ones out as well. That is just flat out wrong. Crap, Amsoil was the first one to come out with it in the retail market in the first place over three decades ago, and even then (iirc) with a 25,000 mi. / 1 yr. oil change interval.

Right now I'd say the top two would be Amsoil and then Mobil1. Amsoil has looong oci's and warranty their oil. Mobil has 'extended' oci's and I haven't seen a warranty backing their product. And of course Amsoil tests better.

Also, iirc some of Amsoil's line has zddp in it. I don't recall offhand, but I can always look it up... or goad Five7 into spilling the beans.

That all said, we shouldn't overlook the fact that your engine is not going to spontaneously explode because you aren't using these products, or even synthetics at that.

zimmchile7

Why not on flat tappets?

Auggie

Well, like stated above there are some additives missing in synt. oils and this is not good for flat tappet type camshaft wear. Its an EPA thing. There is an artical on this subject in the Comp Cams web site in the Tech Section. I told my brother not to run Mobil 1 in his new 406 engine. He said I was nuts! Well lo-and-behold his cam went flat. Comp Cams say's to use Shell Rottella for cam breakin or their oil additive. He has been using streight 30W Pensoil now with good results. We will check his cam again this year but I am sure it will be fine.

Auggie

ZimGTA

Five7 what does Amzoil's oil warranty cover?

Red Devil

I really wish you would would state the reported problem correctly. Your post is rather misleading. You CAN use synthetics after proper break-in in ANY motor, flat -tappet, hydo-roller, solid etc.

For flat tappet camshafts the general recommendation going is to use certain oils for break in or use additives (for break in only). It doesn't matter if it's conventional or synthetic, what matters is the API rating. It's an API thing, that's why many oils on the market still have zddp in them while the general 'wal-mart' brands ones do not. Granted most do this for ANY motor to break it in. There is no point using good high dollar oil just to dump it right off.

As for using rotella, delvac, etc. Some people have been using them for quite a while for break in and for general use. They are diesel oils and are very, and have been, popular in the motorcycle world because of the friction modifiers used in API gasoline automobile oils.

Zim, here is a link to the warranty:

Amsoil Warranty

Xlr8torZ28

iTrader: (19)

I have heard rumors about the flat tappet cams. Some say synthetic is too slippery and wont let the lifter spin like it is suppose to, ending up in irregular wear on the camshaft. But I also heard that most of the cases where that happened, the rocker arms were overtightened. The last car I had was a '79 Z28 with the original factory 350 in it. I had it rebuilt and installed a complete Edelbrock Performer RPM package (heads, cam, carb, intake). I broke that motor in on Mobil 1. Ran the hell out of that motor for 3 years before I sold the car. I never had a lick of trouble out of that motor.

Red Devil

Synthetics do their job too well for conventional flat tappet cams to break in properly. There are of course two sides that argue the same for the ring break in. Why people would bother with synthetics for breakin is beyond me. :shrug:

Formulabruce

I agree, and Ill add, on the royal purple website it recommends 2 oil changes (roughly 7K miles) on an engine before switching to synthetics. I have had a bunch of flat tappet engines on mobil one well after break in and have found no more that normal cam wear. Its the break in thats critical with additives like zinc.
BTW anyone going to touch the regular mobil 1 VS the mobil one super-syn??

Xlr8torZ28

iTrader: (19)

There is just something creepy about waiting 10,000 and 15,000 miles to change oil.... gives me chills.... and nausea...

Red Devil

Mmmm... I can give you this link and you can pull down to the four ball wear test...

Amsoil TSO 0w-30

Best I can do on the fly. My gut is that it is probably better formulated than the regular Mobil1. :shrug:
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The GM on board oil monitors have found that conventional oils can be fine for over 7,000 miles. If you are that concerned you can always send out the oil for analysis. Can't beat those tests.

boussole

mobil one with additive

WITH MORE ANTI-WEAR AGENTS* THAN OTHER LEADING OIL STABILIZERS, STP® OIL STABILIZER HELPS MAINTAIN THE QUALITY OF YOUR OIL BETWEEN CHANGES.

USE EVERY OIL CHANGE

High viscosity formula is specially formulated to help fight metal to metal friction by providing a thicker cushion between moving engine parts. Excellent for all cars, light trucks and SUV's.

STP® Oil Stabilizer - The Racer's Edge®:

* Protects engine parts against corrosive wear by helping to combat internal motor rust
* Reduces deposit buildup to help fight ring sticking
* Conditions seals to help stop minor leaks
* Increases the level of dispersants to help reduce sludge deposits
* Boosts the level of detergency to help keep your engine clean

*ZDDP anit-wear agents

Auggie

Well, there is probely a lot of flat tappet equipped engines using synt. oils out there that have flat cams. The problem is that you notice a slight drop in preformance so you do a comp. test (may see a slight drop) a cyl leak-down test ect, ect. A few plugs may look darker then the others or you may every now and then get a slight backfire. You swap plugs around and now they turn black. Then you go after the plug wires by moving them around or buy a whole new set. Still no luck. You go through the carb and confirm that the sec's are opening. Because the nose of the cam wears and not the heel there will not be any valve train noise. You dread doing this but you rip off the valve covers and get out the dial indicator and oh no there are three or four real flat lobes and the others show wear. You know that, that material is going through the engine but you hope the oil filter will do its job. You remove the engine and the bearings are black from embeded metal. Do a compleat overhaul!! Buy a new cam and lifters and ask the cam co. guy why?? His first question is "do you use synthetic oil". Never again. Anyhow it cost too much and is over-kill for an engine that was designed 51 years ago. Just my .02.

Auggie

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

If you're using petroleum or the lesser synthetics, I'd agree with you. If you change a "real" synthetics like it was a "normal" oil, you're pouring money down the oil drain. Kinda like changing tires when a third of the tread is worn because that's all the miles you could get out of bias ply tires.

Time to get the old school propaganda out of your head.

firedawg225

I use TRUST from Japan. But wait i'm in Japan. My stateside car is still in break in time normal oil for it now.

Red Devil

What ever you are smoking, please don't share.

Seriously though, after proper break-in, how is it over kill and what does the age of the design of the motor have to do with it? Amsoil has had synthetics for 35 years or so. 16 year age difference, feel better?

Synthetics are a higher performing lubricant. Conventional oil is a lesser performing lubricant. How in the world do you propose that a synthetic oil would fail at doing it's lubricating job of lubricating the lifters after proper break-in?!? That makes absolutely no sense whatsoever.

Auggie

What ever you say

Auggie

gray89vert

iTrader: (3)

Mobil 1

YenkoST

iTrader: (5)

I have a flat-tappet cam engines, I run Mobil 1 10w30 for summer, 15w40 for winter and I put a 4 oz bottle of GM break in fuild for the zinc replacement.

Auggie

Good idea!!

Auggie

FullSendRacing

five7, can you tell us why you run the HDD 5-30 on flat tappet motors? finishing up the break-in on my solid flat-tappet 383 (used Castrol GTX thus far) and was planning to run 10-30 Amsoil.

Justins86bird

Mobil 1 5W-30

rx7speed

why can't I use synthetic oil on a flat tappet?

rx7speed

low and behold I'm running a flat tappet on it with synthetic and no problems
so are you talking new motors or any motors with flat tappets?

cause I know many that are running synthetic without a problem

rx7speed

you do realize teflon is a no no for engines right? the maker of teflon is even against their product being used in motors. something about how generally it doesn't disolve right and ends up cloggin and restrictimg your oil passages

most oil addatives are nothing more then some 10w-40 with plastic in them. best way I can describe the stuff. it's big thick chunks of this rubber plastic like stuff that we put through a meat grinder then that gets melted in a big drum. that **** I wouldn't trust in my oil.
least that is the stuff we did when making stp most all your oil addatives are gimmicks


and a waste if your using good oil as is. you did say your using mobile 1 right? why ruin it from there?

rx7speed

so you mean that my car that has 12 good lobes in it using synthetic oil and has 190k miles on it isn't going to last?


EDIT: as far as overkill hope you haven't added a cam or or done any other work on your car. cause why would you waste your money on such an outdated design. save your money on modding your car and buy a LS2 anything else on your current motor is overkill

Auggie

Man, I wonder what kind of oil the average Joe used 30 or 40 years ago. Thoes high winding Chevys and them 427 7000 rpm F**d's. Man how did they ever last. The average third gen 305/350 engines won't even see 5000 rpm on a good day. Just makes you wonder????

Auggie

ThirdGenLS1

They used like straight 30 or 50 oil, and no matter how you go around it synthetic is better then regular oil.

Its called technologie, we dont go around using trains to get everyplace just because it worked for everyone 80 years ago, we have planes for that now.