What synthetic do you use?????
#102
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Originally Posted by rx7speed
but the thinner oil flows more and causes less strain on parts man
Very true, but since it flows easier, there is more flow... More flow equals faster bearing erosion.... Just some food for thought for you guys running pee water 5W-30 / 10W-30
#103
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pee water huh? Seems to me you should run as thin an oil as you can while retaining good oil pressure at both startup and high temp.
Just placed another order with AMSOIL - enough 10-30 for both my 454 suburban, and the 383 in the camaro. If the oil ends up being too thin for the 'burban I may step up to 10-40.
Just placed another order with AMSOIL - enough 10-30 for both my 454 suburban, and the 383 in the camaro. If the oil ends up being too thin for the 'burban I may step up to 10-40.
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Car: 1992 TRANSAM 1989 FORMULA 350
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Originally Posted by Formulabruce
Royal Purple!
remember never use synthetics on newly built engines, most have ZERO Zinc!!
remember never use synthetics on newly built engines, most have ZERO Zinc!!
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The reasoning isn't because of the lack of zinc (the zinc is missing from both synthetics and conventional 'on the shelf' gasoline motor oils) it's because the synthetics do too good of a job of lubricating the engines. It is much more important in flat tappet motors rather than roller ones for proper break in.
Read the last link I posted a few posts ago, it is a decent 'intro' write up on synthetics.
Read the last link I posted a few posts ago, it is a decent 'intro' write up on synthetics.
#107
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Originally Posted by BlackBird20
Very true, but since it flows easier, there is more flow... More flow equals faster bearing erosion.... Just some food for thought for you guys running pee water 5W-30 / 10W-30
how is more oil flow going to cause more erosion?
also how is 10w-30 and 5w-30 pee water? seems to work just fine in every car I have owned and most manufacs are recomending even thinner then that
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Originally Posted by rx7speed
how is more oil flow going to cause more erosion?
also how is 10w-30 and 5w-30 pee water? seems to work just fine in every car I have owned and most manufacs are recomending even thinner then that
also how is 10w-30 and 5w-30 pee water? seems to work just fine in every car I have owned and most manufacs are recomending even thinner then that
Manufactures recommend thin oil for new cars for fuel economy and emissions...
Since I severely abuse my cars, i'll stick with Mobil 1 EP 15W-50... You go ahead and use your pee water in your cars... It's your car, and your choice...
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took geology but that stuff takes years and years and years. doubt it's something you would see in your lifetime with just the friction of the oil itself.
come on honestly if isn't uncommong for lots of blocks/rings to last 150k plus miles and most the wear comes from metal contact do you really think oil flowing is going to all of a sudden make it wear out so much quicker? if that's the case better not get a bigger exhuast or better induction system. it will wear out your intake manifold and exhuast manifold that much quicker, or maybe eat through your heads, and valves as well. and that high flow water pump is going to eat your cooling system apart also right?
the thicker oil on the other hand lets see wont flow as well when cold so you stand a higher chance of wear during start up, then comes the whole flow thing meaning that since the oil is thicker it won't flow quite as well through all the passages (sure enough to maybe work but not as good as it could) vs a thinner oil. you know those tight spots like between your bearings betwen the piston and the cylinder wall and such. then comes the restrictions leading to flow to other parts and pressure loss. sure oil pressure looks higher but then again most times a pressure gauge is hooked up it is hooked up BEFORE any restrictions so you see high pressure but after that you see higher pressure drops so your pressure might actually be less where it matters. then comes the oil filter. since the oil is thicker as is and is more prone to being restricted and since the oil filter is a restriction there is a chance that your oil filter is going to open up the bypass easier which is going to let all kinds of goodies go through your system that are going to cause some extra wear.
and go ahead abuse your car with that thick oil while I go ruin the 210k+ mile motor I have on my car with with each throw on my crank supporting an 11.5lb mass at 8000rpms.
come on honestly if isn't uncommong for lots of blocks/rings to last 150k plus miles and most the wear comes from metal contact do you really think oil flowing is going to all of a sudden make it wear out so much quicker? if that's the case better not get a bigger exhuast or better induction system. it will wear out your intake manifold and exhuast manifold that much quicker, or maybe eat through your heads, and valves as well. and that high flow water pump is going to eat your cooling system apart also right?
the thicker oil on the other hand lets see wont flow as well when cold so you stand a higher chance of wear during start up, then comes the whole flow thing meaning that since the oil is thicker it won't flow quite as well through all the passages (sure enough to maybe work but not as good as it could) vs a thinner oil. you know those tight spots like between your bearings betwen the piston and the cylinder wall and such. then comes the restrictions leading to flow to other parts and pressure loss. sure oil pressure looks higher but then again most times a pressure gauge is hooked up it is hooked up BEFORE any restrictions so you see high pressure but after that you see higher pressure drops so your pressure might actually be less where it matters. then comes the oil filter. since the oil is thicker as is and is more prone to being restricted and since the oil filter is a restriction there is a chance that your oil filter is going to open up the bypass easier which is going to let all kinds of goodies go through your system that are going to cause some extra wear.
and go ahead abuse your car with that thick oil while I go ruin the 210k+ mile motor I have on my car with with each throw on my crank supporting an 11.5lb mass at 8000rpms.
Last edited by rx7speed; 05-09-2006 at 09:47 PM.
#112
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unfortunately, i'm no longer running the camaro, but a 97 gtp instead. while the car originally came with 5w30, the amount of miles (just hit 95k) warrents going a little thicker due to the change in tolerances due to the normal wear and tear. So 10w30 is what i run.
#114
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Originally Posted by BlackBird20
Somebody didnt take basic geology in school, did they SImply put, think a river... A big river with lots of flow will erode the surrounding much quicker than lets say a dinky little stream...
Manufactures recommend thin oil for new cars for fuel economy and emissions...
Since I severely abuse my cars, i'll stick with Mobil 1 EP 15W-50... You go ahead and use your pee water in your cars... It's your car, and your choice...
Manufactures recommend thin oil for new cars for fuel economy and emissions...
Since I severely abuse my cars, i'll stick with Mobil 1 EP 15W-50... You go ahead and use your pee water in your cars... It's your car, and your choice...
Oil will not "erode" bearings, it's the friction, and nothing can be done about that...... If that was the case all motor's will have a short life span.
The quicker the oil gets back to the pump the better the flow, at high rpm this is a must.
It all depends on the motor and how you drive your car.
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Car: 2005 BMW 545i
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Originally Posted by CAMp3RO
unfortunately, i'm no longer running the camaro, but a 97 gtp instead. while the car originally came with 5w30, the amount of miles (just hit 95k) warrents going a little thicker due to the change in tolerances due to the normal wear and tear. So 10w30 is what i run.
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