What synthetic do you use?????
#51
even at close to $7/qt., i'll settle for nothing but Royal Purple. reasons being that
A) it is a high-grade, race-quality oil
B) it polishes the internals of a motor like none other, but with very little metal loss
C) it is the only oil that can be reused after running alcohol, whether E85, or H2O/Methanol injection... all you have to do is drain it, and let the alcohol evaporate out of it.
I love my car, and i HIGHLY suggest to anyone that feels the same to use this oil if running synthetic.
A) it is a high-grade, race-quality oil
B) it polishes the internals of a motor like none other, but with very little metal loss
C) it is the only oil that can be reused after running alcohol, whether E85, or H2O/Methanol injection... all you have to do is drain it, and let the alcohol evaporate out of it.
I love my car, and i HIGHLY suggest to anyone that feels the same to use this oil if running synthetic.
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Yup, your right! Thats just what I use (straight 30W) in my Nitrous fed 355. I built this engine in 1985 and have gone through numerous bottles of the happy stuff (150hp shot) and shift this honey at 5700 rpm. I have no idea how it has lasted this long (53,000 miles). Just lucky I guess
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haha good guess on my part i guess, nothing wrong with dino oil i was just trying to say that sythetic is better. Now if its worth it, well its your car, your money, i'm not going to argue whats best.
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Originally Posted by Auggie
Man, I wonder what kind of oil the average Joe used 30 or 40 years ago. Thoes high winding Chevys and them 427 7000 rpm F**d's. Man how did they ever last. The average third gen 305/350 engines won't even see 5000 rpm on a good day. Just makes you wonder????
Auggie
Auggie
so because dino oil can make an engine last means synthetic is overkill?
so by that logic lets get rid of roller cams, EFI, the new technology we use in combustion chamber heads and port flow,why not remove all that stuff cause those guys back in the 50's were able to make good power with their old school stuff.
to me it sounds more like you would rather live in the past and just get rid of anything new.
heck lets get rid of the internet also and this forum cause back in the day during the 50's you could just call someone up and still get information about working on a car. this whole internet deal is overkill.
just cause something works doesn't mean something else can't do it better. and just cause something else does it better doesn't mean it is overkill.
----------
Originally Posted by Auggie
Yah, your right again. The money I save I use to buy hard parts and of course "Beer".
now see at least that logic is ok it's better then well it's just overkill don't use it. if you don't want to spend the extra or can't that is another story. kinda like if you don't want to buy that new set of heads thats fine. your car is still going to run on the old set of heads right? just the new set should make it run quite a bit better. just like the oil the synthetic oil should make it protect a little better
Last edited by rx7speed; 05-04-2006 at 11:06 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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K this thread is just becoming a bittering debate.
Sythentic is a better protecting oil, is it worth the extra money, well thats up to you.
Do the sensiable thing, research, think, then come to your own conclusion.
Justin
Sythentic is a better protecting oil, is it worth the extra money, well thats up to you.
Do the sensiable thing, research, think, then come to your own conclusion.
Justin
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150 shot. Its not that fast (12.62/111.986) but I drive it every day in the summer and the engine computer is still hooked up. It get's around 19 mpg (hwy) and around 12 in town. Can't seem to stay off the pedal or the button.
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Boy LS1, that sure is the kind of mileage that a guy need's in this day and age. Thats known as "Having your cake and eating it too"
Auggie
Auggie
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Mobil 1 All The Way!
I have been using Mobil 1 15-50w since it was first available in our area off the shelf - July, 1984. Remember the chrome-like metal cans it came in back then? I still have a full one - Ha! Then came the white plastic bottles before switching to the silver plastic we have all become familiar with. Back then, I put it in my brand new 1984 Pontiac 15th Anniversary Trans Am on its very first oil change at 1,000 miles. I used to use a K&N oil filter before all of the readily available high performance oil filters hit the market. I have been using the Mobil 1 oil filters since they hit the market. It is now in my 1999 Pontiac 30th Anniversary Trans Am and my Ford F-150. In September of 2004, I had a TSP Torquer Cam along with all the associated goodies installed by TSP and all the internals looked terrific! They noted too that everything looked great. The stock cam had absolutely no wear on the lobes.
So there is my first post here with my 2 cents worth. I enrolled here as I hope to purchase a nice 15th Anniversary TA in the near future and I figure this will be a great site to be a part of.
So there is my first post here with my 2 cents worth. I enrolled here as I hope to purchase a nice 15th Anniversary TA in the near future and I figure this will be a great site to be a part of.
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welcome to the board, you still have the 99 TA, i almost went wih that torquer cam. Anyways metal cans huh, LOL thats a little before my time.
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Thanks...Yeah, metal cans! Ha! You had to use those metal "spouts" that pushed into the top of the can. Definitely a lot messier. The lift on that TR cam you have is huge! I have the first version of the Torquer that is 233/233 .589/.589 112 . I have been very happy with it all around. 390/370 with CATS and the stock lower flowing '853' heads. Still trying to eek out 400 though - Ha!
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Originally Posted by Auggie
Man, I wonder what kind of oil the average Joe used 30 or 40 years ago. Thoes high winding Chevys and them 427 7000 rpm F**d's. Man how did they ever last. The average third gen 305/350 engines won't even see 5000 rpm on a good day. Just makes you wonder????
Auggie
Auggie
Poor, poor example. The next thing you are going tosay is that synthetics cost you horsepower, they make your motor leak, they suppress the Chinese people and they are the cause for world hunger.
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Originally Posted by DaytonaPaceCar
Thanks...Yeah, metal cans! Ha! You had to use those metal "spouts" that pushed into the top of the can. Definitely a lot messier. The lift on that TR cam you have is huge! I have the first version of the Torquer that is 233/233 .589/.589 112 . I have been very happy with it all around. 390/370 with CATS and the stock lower flowing '853' heads. Still trying to eek out 400 though - Ha!
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Originally Posted by ThirdGenLS1
K this thread is just becoming a bittering debate.
Sythentic is a better protecting oil, is it worth the extra money, well thats up to you.
Do the sensiable thing, research, think, then come to your own conclusion.
Justin
Sythentic is a better protecting oil, is it worth the extra money, well thats up to you.
Do the sensiable thing, research, think, then come to your own conclusion.
Justin
Originally Posted by rx7speed
so because dino oil can make an engine last means synthetic is overkill?
so by that logic lets get rid of roller cams, EFI, the new technology we use in combustion chamber heads and port flow,why not remove all that stuff cause those guys back in the 50's were able to make good power with their old school stuff.
to me it sounds more like you would rather live in the past and just get rid of anything new.
heck lets get rid of the internet also and this forum cause back in the day during the 50's you could just call someone up and still get information about working on a car. this whole internet deal is overkill.
just cause something works doesn't mean something else can't do it better. and just cause something else does it better doesn't mean it is overkill.
so by that logic lets get rid of roller cams, EFI, the new technology we use in combustion chamber heads and port flow,why not remove all that stuff cause those guys back in the 50's were able to make good power with their old school stuff.
to me it sounds more like you would rather live in the past and just get rid of anything new.
heck lets get rid of the internet also and this forum cause back in the day during the 50's you could just call someone up and still get information about working on a car. this whole internet deal is overkill.
just cause something works doesn't mean something else can't do it better. and just cause something else does it better doesn't mean it is overkill.
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hey I can keep it civil
more or less I don't mind if people choose not to use synthetics. it's everyones own choice but to say they are overkill and then use the examples he is using just doesn't make sense.
it's overkill cause motors with dino juice can last for a while. thats nice a stock LG4 can still run down the road to. but why not make the LG4 run a little faster if you can afford it just like why not use synthetic to help PROTECT BETTER if you can afford.
sure dino juice will last in a motor as history has shown us with some cars going for quite some time. nothing wrong with that just like nothing worng with keeping your car stock. but if you really want to get great protection on your metal parts from wear be it from just normal running or start up wear as most true synthetics do tend to stay on the metal a little better, or protection from heat at points where dino jiuice starts to break down (nice for my rotary) better resistance to oil breaking down due to bad juju things in your oil that will contaminate it as well as an oil that will tend to keep it's desired weight range al ot better, plus some side deals like slightly better gas mileage and slightly better horsepower. now those last two things might be slight and shouldn't be the main reason to buy it they are nice at least. on my honda I went from 32-33mpg avg up to around 36-38mpg avg from using 5w-30 synthetic mobile 1 in just the transmision. granted part of that might of been from the previous owner using 75w-90 or some sort of gear lube in there. but that wasn't the main reason I switched. most of it was high mileage car and figured the extra protection couldn't hurt.
another thing I have noticed also with using synthetic on my honda. it actually burns less oil then it did before. saw a motor not too long ago torn apart after using synthetic most it's life. 170k miles on the ticker. virtually no lip inside the cylinder and the cross hatch pattern was still visible just like a new motor almost. bearings still looked fairly fresh and within specs.
so sure while that might be a little overkill I guess and the extra protection might not be needed to some but I think it's nice.
I just don't understand how something like this can be overkill when you would go out and spend money to make the motor last on aftermarket pistons,cranks,rods or what you but yet not give it the best blood you can to keep your parts in the best shape. and again if this is overkill cause it protects better and dino juice protects good enough why are you even modding the motor cause stock still drives and is fast enough right?
also auggie you seem to like the LS1 with the have your cake and eat it to. but isn't synthetic the same thing? or is the ls1 overkill as well?
wow I need to go to bed and btw I am not a synthetic motor oil dealer. if you want that talk to red devil or five7kid.
more or less I don't mind if people choose not to use synthetics. it's everyones own choice but to say they are overkill and then use the examples he is using just doesn't make sense.
it's overkill cause motors with dino juice can last for a while. thats nice a stock LG4 can still run down the road to. but why not make the LG4 run a little faster if you can afford it just like why not use synthetic to help PROTECT BETTER if you can afford.
sure dino juice will last in a motor as history has shown us with some cars going for quite some time. nothing wrong with that just like nothing worng with keeping your car stock. but if you really want to get great protection on your metal parts from wear be it from just normal running or start up wear as most true synthetics do tend to stay on the metal a little better, or protection from heat at points where dino jiuice starts to break down (nice for my rotary) better resistance to oil breaking down due to bad juju things in your oil that will contaminate it as well as an oil that will tend to keep it's desired weight range al ot better, plus some side deals like slightly better gas mileage and slightly better horsepower. now those last two things might be slight and shouldn't be the main reason to buy it they are nice at least. on my honda I went from 32-33mpg avg up to around 36-38mpg avg from using 5w-30 synthetic mobile 1 in just the transmision. granted part of that might of been from the previous owner using 75w-90 or some sort of gear lube in there. but that wasn't the main reason I switched. most of it was high mileage car and figured the extra protection couldn't hurt.
another thing I have noticed also with using synthetic on my honda. it actually burns less oil then it did before. saw a motor not too long ago torn apart after using synthetic most it's life. 170k miles on the ticker. virtually no lip inside the cylinder and the cross hatch pattern was still visible just like a new motor almost. bearings still looked fairly fresh and within specs.
so sure while that might be a little overkill I guess and the extra protection might not be needed to some but I think it's nice.
I just don't understand how something like this can be overkill when you would go out and spend money to make the motor last on aftermarket pistons,cranks,rods or what you but yet not give it the best blood you can to keep your parts in the best shape. and again if this is overkill cause it protects better and dino juice protects good enough why are you even modding the motor cause stock still drives and is fast enough right?
also auggie you seem to like the LS1 with the have your cake and eat it to. but isn't synthetic the same thing? or is the ls1 overkill as well?
wow I need to go to bed and btw I am not a synthetic motor oil dealer. if you want that talk to red devil or five7kid.
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Well it looks like your not going to convince me and I am surely not going to convince you guys so I will just go have a cool one with the money I have saved on oil. Its been fun
Auggie
Auggie
#75
Originally Posted by Auggie
Well it looks like your not going to convince me and I am surely not going to convince you guys so I will just go have a cool one with the money I have saved on oil. Its been fun
Auggie
Auggie
I do one oil change per 20K miles, Royal purple, or mobil one (never on new or rebuilt)
I change the filter every 5K (add some fresh oil) and use a XG fram or better filter.
the used oil at 20K tested fine, was just a bit too dark for me, but the Junkyard uses it for their multifuel furnace so its all good.
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Originally Posted by Auggie
Well it looks like your not going to convince me and I am surely not going to convince you guys so I will just go have a cool one with the money I have saved on oil. Its been fun
Auggie
Auggie
take care yourself man
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i guess for some people in here, some oil in the crankcase is better than none, synthetic or not.
M1 15w-50 EP oil + M1-302 EP Filter
M1 15w-50 EP oil + M1-302 EP Filter
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Mobil 1 for the Z28, Motul or Honda Synth for the bikes and Wal-Mart dino oil for everything else...
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Castrol Syntec is one of those refined-pertroleum "synthetic".
It's not a true synthetic. Unless you buy those German Castrol Syntecs. Very high-quality stuff.
It's not a true synthetic. Unless you buy those German Castrol Syntecs. Very high-quality stuff.
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I didnt realize this was going to be such a big deal. I just posted out of curiosity of which brands most people are using.... But all the replies helped. It seems that Mobil 1 has a big following.
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mobile 1 is the easiest to grab out of the real synthetic
amsoil, royal purple are good as well but for most people it isn't as easy to get.
most all the other "synthetics" I know of are not really a synthetic but still dino oil that is just refined a little better. sure maybe better then just regular straight jane dino juice but still has some of the short commings of dino oil
that included castrol sadly cause I like castrol GTX
amsoil, royal purple are good as well but for most people it isn't as easy to get.
most all the other "synthetics" I know of are not really a synthetic but still dino oil that is just refined a little better. sure maybe better then just regular straight jane dino juice but still has some of the short commings of dino oil
that included castrol sadly cause I like castrol GTX
#85
Originally Posted by rx7speed
mobile 1 is the easiest to grab out of the real synthetic
amsoil, royal purple are good as well but for most people it isn't as easy to get.
amsoil, royal purple are good as well but for most people it isn't as easy to get.
#86
Originally Posted by Auggie
Well, if your engine has a flat tappet cam setup don't us synthetic oils. Roller cams OK.
Auggie
----------
Test
Auggie
----------
Test
I use a top range 15w 50 Mineral.
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Originally Posted by Francis
Over the last 3 years I have spoken with Crane cams, Comp cams and Crower. Each off them, some on the record and some off say the not to use Syn oils and most off them all stress not at all with a roller cam.
I use a top range 15w 50 Mineral.
I use a top range 15w 50 Mineral.
synthetic in most rotary motors is considered a no no (though it really doesn't seem to be the case)
so what other motor is there? and secondly why do so many people have good experience with synthetic if you are not supposed to use it?
but to quote crane cams here
"Crane Cams does not recommend the use of synthetic oils during the initial break-in period for a new camshaft. Use a good quality grade of naturally formulated motor oil during this period. If you choose to use synthetic oil after the engine has been broken in, change the oil filter and follow the oil manufacturer's instructions."
so it seems to me that you can use synthetic just not during breakin. another thing the main reasno for that is so the lifters and the cam can mate with one another and develop a wear patter with each other. roller cams don't have to do that so why is it that they can't use synthetic?
Last edited by rx7speed; 05-08-2006 at 08:00 AM.
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Mobil 1 EP 15W-50 all the way.... And of course original AC Delco Filters...
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isn't z+max that stuff that has lawsuits galore on it. somethign about being just mineral oil and about it?
at work but I check on that stuff will post back.
still don't see why people would add oil addatives
EDIT: found some info
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/2001/02/zmax1.htm
" that tests cited to support performance claims actually demonstrated that motor oil treated with zMax produced more than twice as much bearing corrosion than motor oil alone"
"and that the three different products - an engine additive, a fuel line additive and a transmission additive - were all actually tinted mineral oil."
at work but I check on that stuff will post back.
still don't see why people would add oil addatives
EDIT: found some info
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/2001/02/zmax1.htm
" that tests cited to support performance claims actually demonstrated that motor oil treated with zMax produced more than twice as much bearing corrosion than motor oil alone"
"and that the three different products - an engine additive, a fuel line additive and a transmission additive - were all actually tinted mineral oil."
Last edited by 92 Formula; 05-09-2006 at 05:55 PM.
#91
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Originally Posted by rx7speed
isn't z+max that stuff that has lawsuits galore on it. somethign about being just mineral oil and about it?
at work but I check on that stuff will post back.
still don't see why people would add oil addatives
at work but I check on that stuff will post back.
still don't see why people would add oil addatives
#92
Mobil 1 is what I've put in all my cars I've had. Just paid $30, for 5 quarts with free Mobil 1 oil filter today at Autozone. Can't beat that bang for the buck, and don't have to worry about ordering.
#94
Originally Posted by rx7speed
dude I pay $20 for mobile 1. from wallies in the 5 gallon jug
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Here is a semi-decent intro to synthetics for those that need it. It allegedly had input from the Amsoil, Mobil and Neo companies.
http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/synth_oil.txt
And Wally world is one of the reasons we are paying up the wazoo for gas now.
http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/synth_oil.txt
And Wally world is one of the reasons we are paying up the wazoo for gas now.
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see in the begining of that article it already shows how great the rx7 is
rx for long engine life
se that RX
rx for long engine life
se that RX
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find your own wankle. this ones mine. but if you want I can get you a good deal on some penzoil for your car
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i've always run mobil 1. for the daily driver, i dont see the need to go with anything better, unless you're getting a great deal.
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Mobil 1 is some of the best oil that you can buy over the counter. But food for thought their 5w-30 is actuly a pretty thin oil and is closer to a 5w-20, I would recomend their 10-30 or 0-40 if you can find it.
Justin
Justin