New starter reccomendation
#1
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Car: 1992 Z28
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
New starter reccomendation
I need a new starter and wanted to know any reccomendations for a good aftermarket one.
Or should I stick with Autozone/Advance/Pepboys?
Or should I stick with Autozone/Advance/Pepboys?
#2
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Car: '82 Camaro
Engine: 383
Transmission: TH-350
I have had a mini started I got from Summit about 7 years ago that has worked perfectly every time! The thing is amazing considering it is a generic. And my header actually touches the starter and it is still going strong! (I did need to get some fat battery cable though) Just looking at the catalog it would probably be pn SUM-G1660A for $157.95. I am quite pleased with its performance over the years.
#5
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Put a generic Autozone starter on mine two years ago. Works fine so far. (knock on wood). Still for just a bit more money you can get a new & better design starter these days.
#6
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Car: 1991 Z-28
Engine: Can you say stroke?!?!
Transmission: 700-r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I've heard pretty good things about the LT1 starters from the 4th gens. Never actually used one but a few people on the boards are using them. Myself I'm using a Jegs Mini-starter. It works great and has a lot of positions you can change to.
#7
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Car: 92 camaro Rs
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: t-5 WC
I recomend the napa starter. Awesome price and it has a lifetime warranty, I have gone in there personally at least 5 times and slapped it on the counter and they have fetched me a new one. Thats what you get when you have parasitic power draw, headers, and a leaky rear seal all working against the starter.
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#10
Originally posted by Cliff92Z
Any others?
Any others?
#12
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Car: 1992 Z28
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
84 1LE, I'd like to know how the install goes.
Does any reccomend getting a heat shield for the starter?
Thanks
Does any reccomend getting a heat shield for the starter?
Thanks
#13
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Car: 1986 camaro
Engine: 383 sbc
Transmission: th-400
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 10 bolt/Detroit TrueTrac 4.
Originally posted by Cliff92Z
Does any reccomend getting a heat shield for the starter?
Does any reccomend getting a heat shield for the starter?
yup!
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Car: 1992 B4C
Engine: 4-bolt 350 219cam Superram
Transmission: T56
Jeg's high torque mini, get heat shield too. Have not had any problems with mine, going on two years now. Cost much less than the Tilton I almost went with.
#15
Originally posted by Cliff92Z
84 1LE, I'd like to know how the install goes.
Does any reccomend getting a heat shield for the starter?
Thanks
84 1LE, I'd like to know how the install goes.
Does any reccomend getting a heat shield for the starter?
Thanks
#18
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Car: 1992 Z28
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Very nice. Weighs much lighter than stock eh?
I expected the starter to be shorter in length but it looks like the same size as a stock one. I was afraid the wires wouldn't be long enough to hook back up.
Thanks for the pics also. Everything looks clean under there......matches your y-pipe
I expected the starter to be shorter in length but it looks like the same size as a stock one. I was afraid the wires wouldn't be long enough to hook back up.
Thanks for the pics also. Everything looks clean under there......matches your y-pipe
#19
It weighs just under 8lbs(7.8 lbs).Its maybe 1-1.5 inches shorter tops.In the pic you can see how the heat shield overlaps the end of the starter with the old starter there was about 1/4 overlap.Though i never bothered comparing them side by side.But its definately ALOT lighter & so much easier to handle & install.The wires are more than long enough.So that wasnt a problem either.You cant beat the sound it makes & it cranks over so fast & easy now.Very happy with it...
Last edited by 84 1LE; 11-20-2004 at 09:29 PM.
#20
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Car: 1989 IROC Z-28
Engine: L98 350--modified
Transmission: 700 R4--modified
Axle/Gears: 4:10 Posi
I just went through all the starter crap. A few things I found out that I would like to pass along that might help anybody who is in this situation. I did several searches an the thirdgen board--my particular problem was the infamous "heat soak" problem tha many run into with headers. I have Hooker shorties on the car at the moment.
I still say that there is more info on this board than U could EVER possibly want or need, about any situation, and if U spend some time doing searches and some reading, U can get the answers u want/need!
I myself, ended up getting a CVR #5323--new-- from an e-bay seller, because I am planning on going to long tube headers in the near future and have been told, as well as read many posts on the thirdgen board, that I would need the extra clearance that U get from an aftermarket mini starter.
With stock OEM type starters (headers or non headers) a heat shield for the SOLONOID, is advised. It seems to be that, rather than the starter itself that needs the shielding. Anything will help, but not necessarily cure the problem.
I originally had the OEM type starter with the longer solonoid and the rebuilder gave me the same starter with the short solonoid and even new (rebuilt) the problen was worse than before. I swapped it out with the rebuilder for the longer style and it was much better. I then went and got a NEW Delco solonoid from a Chevy dealer and along with a solonoid heat shield the problem was almost cured, except for really hot days in the middle of the summer. (It gets HOT in Houston Tx.) After getting stranded in a couple of situations that were very inconvient, I went ahead and got the CVR mini starter.
If U replace with an OEM type starter make sure U get one with the longer solonoid. The "book" at many starter rebuild and part stores call for the normal/popular long short straight across bolt pattern, but make sure U get the larger solonoid even if U have to get the parts guy to open a couple different boxes.
If using an OEM type--spend the couple extra $ and get a Delco solonoid. I am told they have more /better windings which seems to be the key with OEM starters.
Doing the remote solonoid fix works for many and is pretty easy.
Seems like ANY type of starter is better than the original Delco design starter.
The alternate later style starters like listed in other post in this thread (several to choose from), after market gear reduction mini-starters- -(according to 2 different rebuilders and one crewchief of a local asphalt short track racing team)--the Nippondenso based starters are a better starter than the Hitachi based starter.
Hope this helps anybody that is going through what so many of us have!
Craig
I still say that there is more info on this board than U could EVER possibly want or need, about any situation, and if U spend some time doing searches and some reading, U can get the answers u want/need!
I myself, ended up getting a CVR #5323--new-- from an e-bay seller, because I am planning on going to long tube headers in the near future and have been told, as well as read many posts on the thirdgen board, that I would need the extra clearance that U get from an aftermarket mini starter.
With stock OEM type starters (headers or non headers) a heat shield for the SOLONOID, is advised. It seems to be that, rather than the starter itself that needs the shielding. Anything will help, but not necessarily cure the problem.
I originally had the OEM type starter with the longer solonoid and the rebuilder gave me the same starter with the short solonoid and even new (rebuilt) the problen was worse than before. I swapped it out with the rebuilder for the longer style and it was much better. I then went and got a NEW Delco solonoid from a Chevy dealer and along with a solonoid heat shield the problem was almost cured, except for really hot days in the middle of the summer. (It gets HOT in Houston Tx.) After getting stranded in a couple of situations that were very inconvient, I went ahead and got the CVR mini starter.
If U replace with an OEM type starter make sure U get one with the longer solonoid. The "book" at many starter rebuild and part stores call for the normal/popular long short straight across bolt pattern, but make sure U get the larger solonoid even if U have to get the parts guy to open a couple different boxes.
If using an OEM type--spend the couple extra $ and get a Delco solonoid. I am told they have more /better windings which seems to be the key with OEM starters.
Doing the remote solonoid fix works for many and is pretty easy.
Seems like ANY type of starter is better than the original Delco design starter.
The alternate later style starters like listed in other post in this thread (several to choose from), after market gear reduction mini-starters- -(according to 2 different rebuilders and one crewchief of a local asphalt short track racing team)--the Nippondenso based starters are a better starter than the Hitachi based starter.
Hope this helps anybody that is going through what so many of us have!
Craig
#21
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Car: 87 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 408 LS
Transmission: LS 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt/3.70 Gears/TAP Girdle
summit brand high torque mini starter, works great for my car. has no problem cranking over 10.5 CR even in the cold ohio weather.
#23
Junior Member
Re: New starter reccomendation
I just got starter from rockauto.com ACDELCO Part #3361904 {#19136213} listed for my 91 Camaro RS V8 VIN code E and does not fit!! What i pain after payed 216$ shipped to Europe. I found out my old starter was ACDelco Part # 323-473 with different mounting and angle. I cant find any online. Im thinking about this mini starter of ebay but im not sure if it fits.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVY...spagenameZWDVW
What another starter i can use, LT1 starter? But you must be sure it will fit my stock car.
LT1 starter
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/100-N...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVY...spagenameZWDVW
What another starter i can use, LT1 starter? But you must be sure it will fit my stock car.
LT1 starter
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/100-N...QQcmdZViewItem
#24
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Car: 88 iroc-z/28
Engine: 408 lsx
Transmission: 5800 stall
Axle/Gears: 4.71
Re: New starter reccomendation
if you dont have a lot of compression, you want a 90 4x4 s10 starter. min starter from the factory. starts quiet, and has a lifetime warranty at most parts houses. bolts right up. you may need different starter bolts with it, so check beforehand.
if you go aftermarket, get an hitachi brand starter. they are the lightest, smallest, and VERY quiet. there are ads in the back of most magazines with them, or check your local speed shop.
speed unlimited has them if you cant find one. 850 455 1341. talk to john he will take care of you.
if you go aftermarket, get an hitachi brand starter. they are the lightest, smallest, and VERY quiet. there are ads in the back of most magazines with them, or check your local speed shop.
speed unlimited has them if you cant find one. 850 455 1341. talk to john he will take care of you.
#25
Junior Member
Re: New starter reccomendation
I ordered mini starter from ebay, hope will work good
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=280218030399&_trksid=p3984.cWON.m313.lVI
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=280218030399&_trksid=p3984.cWON.m313.lVI
#26
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Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.43
Re: New starter reccomendation
I bought one from TCI Heres a pic The starter is a TCI Extreme Racing Starters
Last edited by perriz28; 04-23-2008 at 06:56 AM. Reason: Sin
#27
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Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI w/ l98 cam
Transmission: T5 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.45 posi disc 9 bolt
Re: New starter reccomendation
i bought a lt1 starter from local parts store... same thing as a mini-starter but if it ever goes bad i have a warranty and i dont have to send it off for a new one just run up to the store and exchange it. i like the starter alot.
#28
Re: New starter reccomendation
I had a Powermaster that failed the first month. Pure crap. Don't go there. Then I bought a CVS P100. This thing can crank up to 14:1. Very nice.
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