Dont buy comp cam crap!
#52
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This is just great.........I am preparing to fire my engine sunday and now I read this....Comp XE256-4 cam, with comp lifters,push rods, and roller tip rockers.......and I used the comp red break in lube to assemble........cam has been in car for 3 weeks..... This should be interesting I dont want to do this again.
#53
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Originally posted by 65panhed
This is just great.........I am preparing to fire my engine sunday and now I read this....Comp XE256-4 cam, with comp lifters,push rods, and roller tip rockers.......and I used the comp red break in lube to assemble........cam has been in car for 3 weeks..... This should be interesting I dont want to do this again.
This is just great.........I am preparing to fire my engine sunday and now I read this....Comp XE256-4 cam, with comp lifters,push rods, and roller tip rockers.......and I used the comp red break in lube to assemble........cam has been in car for 3 weeks..... This should be interesting I dont want to do this again.
hundreds of pro teams and engine builders use comp valve gear, and never have problems
#54
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Yeah now i'm worried about the break in lube missing from the cam lobes and lifter.bottoms and side................... I will pump up the engine and the pump flows 60 psi so I guess that i will wait and see..........go to church and ask the Lord for a favor on my behalf.........................thanx ponticgtp
#55
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Originally posted by 65panhed
Yeah now i'm worried about the break in lube missing from the cam lobes and lifter.bottoms and side................... I will pump up the engine and the pump flows 60 psi so I guess that i will wait and see..........go to church and ask the Lord for a favor on my behalf.........................thanx ponticgtp
Yeah now i'm worried about the break in lube missing from the cam lobes and lifter.bottoms and side................... I will pump up the engine and the pump flows 60 psi so I guess that i will wait and see..........go to church and ask the Lord for a favor on my behalf.........................thanx ponticgtp
roller cam, i wouldnt sweat it i dont think.
#56
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hydraulic flat tappet cam with L98 alum heads with the stiffer valve springs for lift to .525 I guess we will see
#57
damm it , why didn;t you ****;s post this earlier
1986 305 tpi 20 000 original miles
comp xtreme energy 212-218 449 456 112 lsa , i also bought there kit , pushrods, lifters, retainers, springs ect,,, ported the 416 heads with bigger 1.94 intake valves
you guys are scaring the **** out of me here ,
been in car since may 6 , i assume everything is going well
non roller cam
i had a licensed mechanic put it in ,
1986 305 tpi 20 000 original miles
comp xtreme energy 212-218 449 456 112 lsa , i also bought there kit , pushrods, lifters, retainers, springs ect,,, ported the 416 heads with bigger 1.94 intake valves
you guys are scaring the **** out of me here ,
been in car since may 6 , i assume everything is going well
non roller cam
i had a licensed mechanic put it in ,
#58
Supreme Member
Originally posted by mikobu3
damm it , why didn;t you ****;s post this earlier
1986 305 tpi 20 000 original miles
comp xtreme energy 212-218 449 456 112 lsa , i also bought there kit , pushrods, lifters, retainers, springs ect,,, ported the 416 heads with bigger 1.94 intake valves
you guys are scaring the **** out of me here ,
been in car since may 6 , i assume everything is going well
non roller cam
i had a licensed mechanic put it in ,
damm it , why didn;t you ****;s post this earlier
1986 305 tpi 20 000 original miles
comp xtreme energy 212-218 449 456 112 lsa , i also bought there kit , pushrods, lifters, retainers, springs ect,,, ported the 416 heads with bigger 1.94 intake valves
you guys are scaring the **** out of me here ,
been in car since may 6 , i assume everything is going well
non roller cam
i had a licensed mechanic put it in ,
Recently many of the oil companies have removed special anti-scuff additives ( Zinc) from most oils. ( most engine are roller cammed now so they think you won;t need it) These anti-scuff additives are what protect the parts in your engine that have metal to metal contact like flat tappet cams and lifters. You can add these zinc additives back in by adding a can/bottle of GM "E.O.S." (engine oil supplement) to each oil change. This stuff is not snake oil, it works. Will allow your flat tappet cammed motor to last a lot longer. Many of the cam grinding companies are recommending it. This is still the only additive that GM recommends you add to your oil on mny car. There is solid engineering behind it. Get some from your GM parts dealer.
hear it from the horses mouth
Does you oil have the zinc additive?
Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 08-22-2004 at 07:52 PM.
#59
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Car: 79 Monte Carlo
Engine: 406
Transmission: 2004-R
Axle/Gears: Phord 9 inch/3.90
*Update*
My new Comp Pro Magnum R Series hydraulic roller lifters came friday. Brand new sealed in the package lifters mind you......
The lifters are bone dry, the wheels dont turn and are notchy when they do, the plastic didnt break, it disinigrated. Its everywhere inside the lifters etc....
I dont care how long the lifters could have sat on the shelf, I've bought other lifters, and normally that is the nastiest most slippery oil they use on those lifters, not to mention the bearings being packed with grease.
This has been one pathetic year dealing with Comp.
The lifters are bone dry, the wheels dont turn and are notchy when they do, the plastic didnt break, it disinigrated. Its everywhere inside the lifters etc....
I dont care how long the lifters could have sat on the shelf, I've bought other lifters, and normally that is the nastiest most slippery oil they use on those lifters, not to mention the bearings being packed with grease.
This has been one pathetic year dealing with Comp.
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Car: 1991Firebird T/A
Engine: 350
Transmission: Modified Viper t-56
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great guess i know what to check when i pull the valve covers off my motor... i'm running 280rwhp with a motor that pulled 430 on the dyno...
guess we'll see now wont we... have a comp 288 roller in it now..
guess we'll see now wont we... have a comp 288 roller in it now..
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Car: 90 454SS
Engine: 454 TBI
Transmission: TH400
Originally posted by F-BIRD'88
You can add these zinc additives back in by adding a can/bottle of GM "E.O.S." (engine oil supplement) to each oil change. This stuff is not snake oil, it works. Will allow your flat tappet cammed motor to last a lot longer. Many of the cam grinding companies are recommending it. This is still the only additive that GM recommends you add to your oil on mny car. There is solid engineering behind it. Get some from your GM parts dealer.
You can add these zinc additives back in by adding a can/bottle of GM "E.O.S." (engine oil supplement) to each oil change. This stuff is not snake oil, it works. Will allow your flat tappet cammed motor to last a lot longer. Many of the cam grinding companies are recommending it. This is still the only additive that GM recommends you add to your oil on mny car. There is solid engineering behind it. Get some from your GM parts dealer.
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Car: '86 IROC, '87 Volvo 240, '09 Malibu
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Car: 91 Formula, 95 GT
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Originally posted by fb305svs
[Bi'm running 280rwhp with a motor that pulled 430 on the dyno... [/B]
[Bi'm running 280rwhp with a motor that pulled 430 on the dyno... [/B]
#65
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Car: 1991Firebird T/A
Engine: 350
Transmission: Modified Viper t-56
Axle/Gears: dana 44, 3.55
yup... before i go back (i lost all my top end, bottom end is still there, 406 on the engine dyno, 320 on the chassis dyno), anyways, gonna drop the exhuast and see if thats part of the issue, but i gotta check everything now... 70rwhp is a lot to be off just due to exhuast
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
no it isnt, who have you been listening to? your car is a textbook example of the 20% rule.
Most cars exceed the 20% rule, your ride must me pretty nice if it can get 320 RW off a 406 engine dyno. Not only that, it shows unlike others that you got what you paid for when you got your engine dynoed. you lost 86 hp, 1/5 or 20% of 406 hp is 81.2 I would say you have one mother f***ing efficient ride!!! I would have figured it for a stick shift with that kind of efficiency not an auto. wow!
can you post your dyno sheets so that others can see them and understand them as the example to try to achieve??
Most cars exceed the 20% rule, your ride must me pretty nice if it can get 320 RW off a 406 engine dyno. Not only that, it shows unlike others that you got what you paid for when you got your engine dynoed. you lost 86 hp, 1/5 or 20% of 406 hp is 81.2 I would say you have one mother f***ing efficient ride!!! I would have figured it for a stick shift with that kind of efficiency not an auto. wow!
can you post your dyno sheets so that others can see them and understand them as the example to try to achieve??
#67
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Car: 1991Firebird T/A
Engine: 350
Transmission: Modified Viper t-56
Axle/Gears: dana 44, 3.55
hey tom - sorry man i wasnt clear and you mis read -
motor engine dynoed at 433hp and 406ftlbs...
chassis dynoed with all the same stuff on the motor except for the header back exhuast with 280rwhp and 320rwtrq
What i was saying is that my torque is with in reason - my hp is not, the motor now falls flat on its face on the top end... I feel like the car was much faster in the months it was out right after everything got done. Then in the spring the car has felt like a dog since, and i haven't found anything wrong with it yet!
before the next dyno run i'm gonna measure the lift on each valve, re adjust the valves and take apart the distributor (for some strange reason it drops 4* of timing out at the same rpm everytime... mechanical advance shouldnt do that! (motor is carbed)
i have a lot of things to check, but no damn time to do it... it will probably be winter before i do it, then when i slap a supercharger on it in the spring with an efi setup, everything up until now will be right out the window...
motor engine dynoed at 433hp and 406ftlbs...
chassis dynoed with all the same stuff on the motor except for the header back exhuast with 280rwhp and 320rwtrq
What i was saying is that my torque is with in reason - my hp is not, the motor now falls flat on its face on the top end... I feel like the car was much faster in the months it was out right after everything got done. Then in the spring the car has felt like a dog since, and i haven't found anything wrong with it yet!
before the next dyno run i'm gonna measure the lift on each valve, re adjust the valves and take apart the distributor (for some strange reason it drops 4* of timing out at the same rpm everytime... mechanical advance shouldnt do that! (motor is carbed)
i have a lot of things to check, but no damn time to do it... it will probably be winter before i do it, then when i slap a supercharger on it in the spring with an efi setup, everything up until now will be right out the window...
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Car: 1991Firebird T/A
Engine: 350
Transmission: Modified Viper t-56
Axle/Gears: dana 44, 3.55
tom you amaze me... seriously... i serisouly apoligise however, because what i posted was confusing.. i have been working hard the last couple weeks and its wearin on me hard..
anyways...
engine dyno: 433hp, 406ftlbs
chassis dyno: 280hp, 320ftlbs
thats not a loss of 80 hp, thats a loss of 153hp. the torque is good - right on the money if you ask me. means i have something holding the top end of the motor back... i have alot of things to check to make sure... but the only thing that changed off the dyno was the header back exhuast. its still dual 3" off each header, but it y's to a 3" cat back... of which i feel is a good chunk of my problem.
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
well if it is any consolation
my 412 was:
.060 400
stock crank
350 rods
forged pistons
190-200cc pro-topline aluminum heads
ported edelbrock lower
super ram upper
58mm TB
24# SVO's
9.9:1 compression (too low for cam)
Crane Hyd roller # 119681 240/248 @ .050, 306/314 advertised, .558” ( .595" lift with my 1.6's) 114 lobe sep. .860" BASE CIRCLE
^^^ too big for intake and compression
running the stock chip (AUJP bin)
and stock fuel pressure made this very lean dyno run
my 412 was:
.060 400
stock crank
350 rods
forged pistons
190-200cc pro-topline aluminum heads
ported edelbrock lower
super ram upper
58mm TB
24# SVO's
9.9:1 compression (too low for cam)
Crane Hyd roller # 119681 240/248 @ .050, 306/314 advertised, .558” ( .595" lift with my 1.6's) 114 lobe sep. .860" BASE CIRCLE
^^^ too big for intake and compression
running the stock chip (AUJP bin)
and stock fuel pressure made this very lean dyno run
#71
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Car: 1991Firebird T/A
Engine: 350
Transmission: Modified Viper t-56
Axle/Gears: dana 44, 3.55
yeah i remmeber your post abotu the fairly disappointing numbers...
i too have a pretty good feeling my compression is a bit low for the cam, but it still made decent power. i just need to figuer out this top end bug...
i too have a pretty good feeling my compression is a bit low for the cam, but it still made decent power. i just need to figuer out this top end bug...
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
did you get A/F ratio charts with your dyno?
also that motor is going into the 2800# JYD and its nitous system.
Also, Im going to advance or retard the cam with a compression checker on it cranking it over until I get the highest pressure. before it goes in that car
also that motor is going into the 2800# JYD and its nitous system.
Also, Im going to advance or retard the cam with a compression checker on it cranking it over until I get the highest pressure. before it goes in that car
#73
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Car: 1991Firebird T/A
Engine: 350
Transmission: Modified Viper t-56
Axle/Gears: dana 44, 3.55
yeah def a good plan - af was very fat on the chassis dyno, like 10:1... had to lean up the carb A LOT (like ok for WOT terrible for driving) to get it to run an 11:1 on the chassis dyno...
was tuned to 12.3:1 on the engine dyno...
was tuned to 12.3:1 on the engine dyno...
#74
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
wow why such different A/F rations dyno to dyno?
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Car: 1991Firebird T/A
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Transmission: Modified Viper t-56
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well i dont know, besides the obvious "not making as much power" reason, the only thing i can come up with is the exhuast is too corked up and its not letting the shorter lsa cam scavenge the exhuast...
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Car: 1986 Iroc
Engine: 454 Demon 850DP
Transmission: TH350, 3500 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.73
I had a shop install my XE294 and the lobes got wiped while breaking it in. Also talked to another shop in my area and he has had XE cams get wiped while breaking them in on the engine dyno using only the outer springs and plenty of lube.
Amazing how much damage that metal does in 10 minutes of runtime.
Amazing how much damage that metal does in 10 minutes of runtime.
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Car: 1966 impala , 1998 sebring vert,1978 buick regal turbo, 1991 chevy silverado 3/4ton 4x4 lifted
Engine: 283, 2.5,3.8 turbo 350
Transmission: powerglide,auto overdrive, th350,4L80
why is it that almost everyone that i hear had a problem with thier cam on breakin either had a shop or a mechanic install it and or break it in ??????
and people like myself and my brother have done this multiple times and never had one go bad yet and have been using these brand cams personally for a while now.....i just dont get it i guess...maybe we are doing something different or maybe we are getting the only good ones they make who knows but i will definatly buy thier crap as long as they want to make it
and people like myself and my brother have done this multiple times and never had one go bad yet and have been using these brand cams personally for a while now.....i just dont get it i guess...maybe we are doing something different or maybe we are getting the only good ones they make who knows but i will definatly buy thier crap as long as they want to make it
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
I know you don't want to hear this in your comp bashing thread but I have flattened cams from crane, comp and isky. All my fault over the years. I have NEVER seen a cam fail except in the case of a broken cam core, that was the fault of the manufacturer.
#80
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Originally posted by B4Ctom1
I know you don't want to hear this in your comp bashing thread but I have flattened cams from crane, comp and isky. All my fault over the years. I have NEVER seen a cam fail except in the case of a broken cam core, that was the fault of the manufacturer.
I know you don't want to hear this in your comp bashing thread but I have flattened cams from crane, comp and isky. All my fault over the years. I have NEVER seen a cam fail except in the case of a broken cam core, that was the fault of the manufacturer.
Ben
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
they only hard face the actual lobes so if the test was performed on the other parts of the metal of course it will be soft
#82
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You know, this thread was pointed out to me for a completely different reason, but reading through it I have to comment on the comp issue and a few other things.
First, I really, seriously doubt that there is any problem with comp cams. I’ve used a fair share of them myself and have never seen a problem, and work at a shop that sells almost nothing else, probably a few cams a week and haven’t seen any problems there either… ie, I have more of these things go through my hands then most of you will ever see, hell, I’ve probably installed more then a lot of you will ever see.
Second, in recent years there have been a bunch of reasons why people may have seen a disproportionate number of cam failures… high on that list are:
- changes in manufacturing techniques where there was a learning curve with most of the manufacturers,
- the domestic makers of most of the lifters ever sold went out of business a few years ago which resulted in the market suddenly being flooded with loads of cheap, mostly Chinese made, questionable quality lifters.
- The additive that used to be put in oil to prevent just this type of wear (zinc diphosphate) has been mandated out of the oil formulations by the new standards label, not because of performance reasons (on the contrary, it worked extremely well), but because of emissions reasons (when burned it destroys catalytic converters, making it difficult for manufacturers to meet the federally mandated emissions equipment warranty). This was such a big change that some OEMs tried to cancel warranties if someone used the newer rated oil in their vehicles (primarily BMW), and stores like NAPA and some motorcycle supplies have vowed to keep some of older standards meeting oils in stock as long as they can (you can also buy the stuff in a bottle over the counter at a GM dealership).
Lastly, Comp is a market leader in the field. The disadvantage with that position is that if X number of people are likely to monkey up the install of a particular product and you’re by far the market leader in selling the product, you can expect a proportionately large percentage of X to have happened with your product, and the unfortunate fact of life is that when people don’t understand that they did something wrong or what they did wrong they blame you, not themselves.
First, I really, seriously doubt that there is any problem with comp cams. I’ve used a fair share of them myself and have never seen a problem, and work at a shop that sells almost nothing else, probably a few cams a week and haven’t seen any problems there either… ie, I have more of these things go through my hands then most of you will ever see, hell, I’ve probably installed more then a lot of you will ever see.
Second, in recent years there have been a bunch of reasons why people may have seen a disproportionate number of cam failures… high on that list are:
- changes in manufacturing techniques where there was a learning curve with most of the manufacturers,
- the domestic makers of most of the lifters ever sold went out of business a few years ago which resulted in the market suddenly being flooded with loads of cheap, mostly Chinese made, questionable quality lifters.
- The additive that used to be put in oil to prevent just this type of wear (zinc diphosphate) has been mandated out of the oil formulations by the new standards label, not because of performance reasons (on the contrary, it worked extremely well), but because of emissions reasons (when burned it destroys catalytic converters, making it difficult for manufacturers to meet the federally mandated emissions equipment warranty). This was such a big change that some OEMs tried to cancel warranties if someone used the newer rated oil in their vehicles (primarily BMW), and stores like NAPA and some motorcycle supplies have vowed to keep some of older standards meeting oils in stock as long as they can (you can also buy the stuff in a bottle over the counter at a GM dealership).
Lastly, Comp is a market leader in the field. The disadvantage with that position is that if X number of people are likely to monkey up the install of a particular product and you’re by far the market leader in selling the product, you can expect a proportionately large percentage of X to have happened with your product, and the unfortunate fact of life is that when people don’t understand that they did something wrong or what they did wrong they blame you, not themselves.
#83
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Car: 79 Monte Carlo
Engine: 406
Transmission: 2004-R
Axle/Gears: Phord 9 inch/3.90
Very good points
I came into this thread sharing a problem I had with a Comp roller cam. The *problem* I had was a soft cam. The *problem* I now have is a fubar*ed short block.
My engine builder tested it and found it soft. The engine builder in NY that had it custom cut for me found it soft. Comp said it was A-OK. I reckon if you spoke to Comp yourself, they will gladly tell you none were ever soft either. Hell, they'd be fools to say anything otherwise.
The point is this:
I never said Comp was crap, and I dont believe they are. My problem is with people coming on this board and singing the song of Comp supremecy, and how they dont put out any defective products.
EVERY COMPANY IN THIS WORLD HAS SOME TURNOVER AT SOME POINT! IT MIGHT NOT BE A LOT, IT MIGHT NOT BE OFTEN, BUT IT EXISTS! PERIOD.
I fully understand and fully agree with Crossfires version of how more product sold equals more chances for install screw-ups etc.
Now, for the part you forgot to mention.....
If X company sells X amount of products, X percentage of turnover is expected. When a company has the highest X amount of products sold, then the X percentage of turnover rises as well. Not rocket science, its just the way it is.
Summarizing what I've already said in earlier posts.....
I dont think Comp is a bad company. They have humans working there just like any other company. My problem is that I got a soft cam, they denied it, and were not willing to help with motor repair costs at all. I wont deny the fact they replaced the cam and rebuilt my lifters, but the rest of the motor is still lying in a pile, and I'm scrounging money to build a new one.
Thats the simple reason why I will not use Comp Cams again.
My engine builder tested it and found it soft. The engine builder in NY that had it custom cut for me found it soft. Comp said it was A-OK. I reckon if you spoke to Comp yourself, they will gladly tell you none were ever soft either. Hell, they'd be fools to say anything otherwise.
The point is this:
I never said Comp was crap, and I dont believe they are. My problem is with people coming on this board and singing the song of Comp supremecy, and how they dont put out any defective products.
EVERY COMPANY IN THIS WORLD HAS SOME TURNOVER AT SOME POINT! IT MIGHT NOT BE A LOT, IT MIGHT NOT BE OFTEN, BUT IT EXISTS! PERIOD.
I fully understand and fully agree with Crossfires version of how more product sold equals more chances for install screw-ups etc.
Now, for the part you forgot to mention.....
If X company sells X amount of products, X percentage of turnover is expected. When a company has the highest X amount of products sold, then the X percentage of turnover rises as well. Not rocket science, its just the way it is.
Summarizing what I've already said in earlier posts.....
I dont think Comp is a bad company. They have humans working there just like any other company. My problem is that I got a soft cam, they denied it, and were not willing to help with motor repair costs at all. I wont deny the fact they replaced the cam and rebuilt my lifters, but the rest of the motor is still lying in a pile, and I'm scrounging money to build a new one.
Thats the simple reason why I will not use Comp Cams again.
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Car: 79 Monte Carlo
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Turnover is defective products.
LOL. Dont beat around the bush, just say if you got a bad cam.
Not agreeing would be if someone ate a bean burrito with too much hot sauce on it.
No, I didnt find a company that would cover the cost, although I didnt ask either. The point is that I never intend to find this out again, and at the bare minimum a company should take responsibility enough to admit they sent out a faulty product.
Noones perfect, and I'm not sure who expects anyone to be. The people that can accept not being perfect are the ones that attempt to make some right from a wrong instead of just denying everything.
if their cam doesn’t agree with it?
Not agreeing would be if someone ate a bean burrito with too much hot sauce on it.
So I take it that you found a cam manufacturer that will cover the cost of your engine if their cam doesn’t agree with it? Who was it?
Noones perfect, and I'm not sure who expects anyone to be. The people that can accept not being perfect are the ones that attempt to make some right from a wrong instead of just denying everything.
#86
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So comp is taking back cam, even if you don't use their springs? I was gonna get a k-kit but i can piece together parts for $200 instead of $300.
#87
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Originally posted by TPI79MC
Turnover is defective products.
LOL. Dont beat around the bush, just say if you got a bad cam.
Not agreeing would be if someone ate a bean burrito with too much hot sauce on it.
Turnover is defective products.
LOL. Dont beat around the bush, just say if you got a bad cam.
Not agreeing would be if someone ate a bean burrito with too much hot sauce on it.
I’m not beating around the bush, I was being polite.
To be blunt (IE dropping the polite BS), in 75% of cases I would suspect user error, and in 24% of the remaining cases I would suspect other hardware problems (like bad lifters, some crap in the oil/oil galleys which might fit under user error…).
Since these things basically get a surface heat treat you’d have a pretty hard time proving that you got a bad cam, basically you’d have to do a brinell test on the center of a lobe that doesn’t show any wear. Testing a worn lobe or the more typical “file test” would ensure “up, it’s got a soft lobe” results which in reality would mean absolutely nothing.
No, I didnt find a company that would cover the cost, although I didnt ask either. The point is that I never intend to find this out again, and at the bare minimum a company should take responsibility enough to admit they sent out a faulty product.
Noones perfect, and I'm not sure who expects anyone to be. The people that can accept not being perfect are the ones that attempt to make some right from a wrong instead of just denying everything.
Noones perfect, and I'm not sure who expects anyone to be. The people that can accept not being perfect are the ones that attempt to make some right from a wrong instead of just denying everything.
Working in the industry I can tell you that probably a good 75% or greater of the defective returns that I accept are most likely the result of something dumb that the buyer did, but I do it to try to keep people happy/coming back.
Now I’m not saying all this to pick on you. There is the rather small chance that you may have actually gotten a bad cam. But even if that was the case, I’m not sure what else you could realistically expect them to do about it besides replacing what they supplied that was bad…
Last edited by 83 Crossfire TA; 11-06-2004 at 01:49 AM.
#88
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Just the fact that this post exists and has had so many replies tells you Comp has a problem with its product that has become noticable to the public. Once a problem becomes this noticable to the public its a bigger problem then they want to let everyone know about. So the company begins the deny it is happening campaign.
I am also sick of every one singing the praises of this company. I know three people who each put in a comp cam and everyone one of them went flat. The people installing them had done cam swaps probably a dozen other times.
So the experience I have seen with them is a 100% failure rate.
What are the odds of that? I would say it is a garbage product for me to see that happen three times on 3 different motors with three completely different people.
Sure most defect's are do the users. But there is cleary a problem with the product.
I am also sick of every one singing the praises of this company. I know three people who each put in a comp cam and everyone one of them went flat. The people installing them had done cam swaps probably a dozen other times.
So the experience I have seen with them is a 100% failure rate.
What are the odds of that? I would say it is a garbage product for me to see that happen three times on 3 different motors with three completely different people.
Sure most defect's are do the users. But there is cleary a problem with the product.
Last edited by burnout88; 11-07-2004 at 04:06 PM.
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
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Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
and comp is bad compared too....who?
I can flatten anyones cam, all I have to do is read the instructions, run the wrong springs wrong installed height, guess that the RPM is high enough, crank the engine over about a million times trying to get it to start, rub all the lube off the cam trying to get it into the block, guestimate how long the engine has been running breaking in the cam, get impatient and drive it before it is broken in.
Then when anyone suggests I did anything other than what the instructions call for "because I did it rite like the 'structions swear on my mothers grave!" and "screw you I don't care what you say, I did it rite dood because my uncles mothers son knows a mechanic and he never messes up!" and "so I don't care what you said, I did it rite..."
p.s. whats next? "I don't like Richmond gears dood they always whine..."
I can flatten anyones cam, all I have to do is read the instructions, run the wrong springs wrong installed height, guess that the RPM is high enough, crank the engine over about a million times trying to get it to start, rub all the lube off the cam trying to get it into the block, guestimate how long the engine has been running breaking in the cam, get impatient and drive it before it is broken in.
Then when anyone suggests I did anything other than what the instructions call for "because I did it rite like the 'structions swear on my mothers grave!" and "screw you I don't care what you say, I did it rite dood because my uncles mothers son knows a mechanic and he never messes up!" and "so I don't care what you said, I did it rite..."
p.s. whats next? "I don't like Richmond gears dood they always whine..."
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rite
#92
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
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Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
yes yes I know, dood is spelled dude too, but when I make posts like this I have to leave things mispelled so that when someone disagrees with me the only recourse they have is to harp on my spelling as thier only valid arguement response, and you ruined it!
#93
I am also sick of every one singing the praises of this company. I know three people who each put in a comp cam and everyone one of them went flat. The people installing them had done cam swaps probably a dozen other times.
I have ONLY put comp cams in my engines. For a long time. When I have changed cams for other people its always a comp. When my brother, thegeneral, does it its the same way. Between the two of us, we have never lost a comp cam. That is a lot of cams too. Never not one.
As far as the roller cam issue, I dont know. It is definately something different.
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Good grief
Personally I can't stand slicks because they have terrible traction in the rain.
When moderators partake in ignorance like this, thats when I give up. I hope it happens to you someday. It probably wont, but should it ever happen, dont post it here (not like you would anyways for fear of looking like a jack *** now), but if you would, I'd be the first to copy and paste something brainless like this:
Then when anyone suggests I did anything other than what the instructions call for "because I did it rite like the 'structions swear on my mothers grave!" and "screw you I don't care what you say, I did it rite dood because my uncles mothers son knows a mechanic and he never messes up!" and "so I don't care what you said, I did it rite..."
p.s. whats next? "I don't like Richmond gears dood they always whine..."
p.s. whats next? "I don't like Richmond gears dood they always whine..."
When people say that cam failures are 90% user error I totally agree. Now, when you completely block out the fact that a cam could ever possibly come defective, you need to wipe the fecies off your nose and face...... you've been kissing WAY too much company bootie.
I truly apologize to the people that understand a bad cam could sneak through the door. I'm through with this post.
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
My inference and my "richmond" referrence is more to the fact that differential and cam break in are the two things people rarely do correctly. Therefore failures are VERY common.
Just because me, my buddy, his dad, my brother, his brother, and all of our friends have experienced a cam failure, rear gear whine or failure etc etc from the most popular manufacturer, doesnt mean much, not much at all in the way of faulty craftsmanship on the part of the manufacturer.
when we talk about failures, we usually use something good as a comparison. so if comp is bad, who is good? I can tell you don't even get me started on crane, isky, or lunati. I think they are all fine manufacturers, but EVERY manufacturers cam will flatten given the same set of circumstances.
Just because me, my buddy, his dad, my brother, his brother, and all of our friends have experienced a cam failure, rear gear whine or failure etc etc from the most popular manufacturer, doesnt mean much, not much at all in the way of faulty craftsmanship on the part of the manufacturer.
when we talk about failures, we usually use something good as a comparison. so if comp is bad, who is good? I can tell you don't even get me started on crane, isky, or lunati. I think they are all fine manufacturers, but EVERY manufacturers cam will flatten given the same set of circumstances.
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Originally posted by B4Ctom1
yes yes I know, dood is spelled dude too, but when I make posts like this I have to leave things mispelled so that when someone disagrees with me the only recourse they have is to harp on my spelling as thier only valid arguement response, and you ruined it!
yes yes I know, dood is spelled dude too, but when I make posts like this I have to leave things mispelled so that when someone disagrees with me the only recourse they have is to harp on my spelling as thier only valid arguement response, and you ruined it!
#98
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Originally posted by B4Ctom1
p.s. whats next? "I don't like Richmond gears dood they always whine..."
p.s. whats next? "I don't like Richmond gears dood they always whine..."
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
yes, straighter cut, phosphating, motive is even worse about that. But if properly set up with a T&D machine tool they wont whine.
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/84118/
bought this tool
http://emporium.markwilliams.com/pro...sp?prodid=1669
set up about 200 or so rears at work
never a whine again regardless of manufacturer as long as the gears were new.
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/84118/
bought this tool
http://emporium.markwilliams.com/pro...sp?prodid=1669
set up about 200 or so rears at work
never a whine again regardless of manufacturer as long as the gears were new.
Last edited by B4Ctom1; 11-07-2004 at 01:47 PM.
#100
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Car: 1971 Corvette
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I'm not going to go into it too far, but I have had several comp failures in the last year.
I had the xe284 in my truck last summer. Coming home from work one day it started to bang. I got home and found a couple destroyed lifters and a junk cam. This cam had been installed for over a year when this happened.
The exact same thing happened to the xe268 in my wife's 383 a month later. Middle of the season it just goes to ****. Then one went flat just after/during the breakin. This was a running car, so it started right up and there was no problem during the breakin. I had the shortblock checked out by my machinist and he said there was nothing wrong with it to cause an oiling problem.
I switched to a moly based lube for the next cam breakin and it worked great. Previous to that I had been using the lube that came in the cam box, silly me. I don't know if that was the problem or not, but Comp Cams cost me at least 700 bucks in replacement cams. Plus my truck was down for 3 weeks and my wifes car was down for 6. Working on broken hotrods in the middle of the summer sucks.
I had the xe284 in my truck last summer. Coming home from work one day it started to bang. I got home and found a couple destroyed lifters and a junk cam. This cam had been installed for over a year when this happened.
The exact same thing happened to the xe268 in my wife's 383 a month later. Middle of the season it just goes to ****. Then one went flat just after/during the breakin. This was a running car, so it started right up and there was no problem during the breakin. I had the shortblock checked out by my machinist and he said there was nothing wrong with it to cause an oiling problem.
I switched to a moly based lube for the next cam breakin and it worked great. Previous to that I had been using the lube that came in the cam box, silly me. I don't know if that was the problem or not, but Comp Cams cost me at least 700 bucks in replacement cams. Plus my truck was down for 3 weeks and my wifes car was down for 6. Working on broken hotrods in the middle of the summer sucks.