well, i got tired of having a giant hole in my hood because the RPM air-gap on my new engine is too tall.

i was looking at other hoods, but at best they were $350 +$150 shipping which is $500

so i bought one of harwoods universal scoops for $110 shipped.

i riveted it on using 1/8" rivets about every 3" then used body filler to smooth it out, and lots and lots of sanding.

its still not quite perfect, but it did come out pretty damn good. and it does look better in person. just a little bit of finish sanding with 180grit, and i'll be good to go.

i do have a '82 composite hood, so that did make it a tad bit easier, because i was molding, glass to glass

But overall, for a "universal" scoop, it fit pretty well. I was impressed. I've never done body work before in my life, so if i can do it, im sure you can.
So for those avid "do-it-yourselfers" i would highly reccomend it over buying a full hood. it only took me about 5 hours work of body work, and i saved $390. well worth it.

 

That looks pretty dang good 'scottland'...

Is the scoop wide enough for a 14" air cleaner?


Ron

 

THats what I did as well. Cost $110, plus $75 to mold it in, and paint. I used rivets every 2". It comes out looking real good.

 

My hood also has the universal scoop on it...I bought it that way, so I forchantly didn't get to do the body work !! Although I believe I could make it look a little better if I had...but It's decent and I can live with it. see link for pics www.exotik.cc/mario

 

easily.

its just a hair under 2 feet wide, so about 23" or so.

 

My car has had one for the past 19 years or so. The cowl itself still looks ok, but the filler shrank over time and the rivets have rusted through.

 

Hey guys..I was wondering if someone can tell the where to cut the hole for my Harwood Universial hood scoop. I had it installed before but i neglected to reinstall the saftey latch on my last hood and it flew up and bent all to He$% doing like 50Mph.
I have the original cutout from last hood but don't know how close or far to put it from the back end of the new hood to trace.
Not sure if it was a couple of inches or what......Ur help would be greatlly appreciated .
I almost forgot to mention it's carb.

 

niagara, i don't quite get what your asking, you don't need to cut the hole in the hood to the size of the cowl scoop. infact, if you want to true cowl effect, cut a hole just big enough for your air cleaner to stick up through in the stock hood.

then when you mold the scoop on, your air cleaner has only one place to suck air from, the airspace under the cowl.

 

I've been driving my car with out a hood and it's January and lots of snow here..I can't put my hood on to find the center point of my carb,cuz my intake makes my carb. sit up way too high, and it impossiable to cut the hold in the right spot. I should of just saved my old hood and took measurements.
but anyways...sorry to bother you all.
steve'o

 

I wouldn't worry about centering the scoop in reference to the air cleaner. I would center the scoop to the hood. It will clear the air cleaner if you do this. To find where to cut the hole for the air cleaner follow this:
1. Take the cleaner off the carb, and leave the cleaner stud in the carb.
2. If you have hood insulation, take it off for now.
3. Gently shut your hood down to the stud.
4. Wiggle the hood a little, just enough to make a scratch on the paint, on the underside of the hood.
5. If you have a 14" cleaner, make a 14" circle using that scratch as the center point. Add about 1-2" all around, and cut.

There's your hole!

 

Duhhhh I can't believe I didn't think of that. thanks john
I'll post pics as soon as i get the scoop on..I don't think I'm gonna mold it too my hood tho just rivet her on ..I used body panel adhesive and rivets with a head the size of a nickle and it held great..but again tks for that tip

 

I used to have the universal scoop on a metal hood...and ran into problems with the fiberglass bondo cracking. I decided to spend the money and just the "lift-off" hood. I had tried top use fiberglass and bondo with no luck. I had the same problem with both. It is also pretty humid here in the summer too though.

 

Hey Cuno, where did you get your ground effects? I've never seen them before. Did you make them yourself? And just so you know, if you don't already; fiberglass filler is waterproof and plastic body filler is not, it will absorb water down to the substrate and rust it, which may lead to cracking, but I don't really know where your cracking came from because metal fillers can be used on fiberglass and vice versa.

 

i too have a universal hood scoop nto cowl tho mines ram air.

got pics on my homepage but aint great workin on getin new ones son tho.

also his ground effects are fomr kobel they are called the predator kit.

i put in some real long shank 1/8 rivets in mine les then an inch apart, fiberglassed over it all ground down some then aplied bondo, not goin to state how much it took to get it flat and smooth to flow downward to look right, then top coated w/ glazin spot puttty. then primered the hell out of it w/ my air gun and some auto body supply store primer.

one finaly note mine didnt fit quite right or good enough so i had to get creative and do some cutomizing to make it look good.

not all that satisfied w/ the back of it but it turned out ok.

 

those always come out looking good but after 6 years or so the rivets ALWAYS show

 

What he said - My rivets show - one of these days I'll either replace the hood, or re-do it...I'm getting tired of looking at it.

 

i used to have one - looke bad and the hood was heavy...

 

That is interesting...makes me wonder what caused the cracking then as well. It was cracking along the front of the scoop and began to crack along the sides as well.

The body kit is the "Predator" kit. The only place that I know that still sells it is http://www.bageco.com/mckkits.htm

 

my scoop has been fixed twice and is cracking again, im saying screw it and buying a new hood

 

Exactly the same problem I had...it is well worth the money to buy an actual hood.

 

whys your air-gap too tall? i got an prof. products air-gap which is similar to the edelbrocks and my hood closes fine with a 14x3 dropbase.


Nebu.