EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

Here's the original thread.
Anyway, after 3 months of waiting I finally got my heads wooohooo AFR 195, 68cc heads. Taking everything to the machine shop this week

Here's the questioned area in the other thread, no burrs found.

demonchild

nice. do you have to use guideplates with those heads?

sleepybu

thats some nice cnc-ing

MrDude_1

wow. thoes look great...

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

I'm gonna have to since I'll be running pro magnum roller rockers... I guess if you have self aligning ones, you wouldn't have to use the guide plates.

swerve-driver

Excellent post Cartman-
Upon engine completion I want to see pics or mpegs of frightened women and children, award winning burnouts and vanquished competitors!
Am also glad to see AFR got their troubles squared away
Thanks and good luck with your build,
S-D

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

LOL don't worry, I'm gonna get some video Wish my buddy didn't have his parking lot done yet but he wanted it done for winter. I got a video of the car doing a nice burnout and a couple of donuts. I'll have to do a before and after video comparison I'm freakin excited about the swap, the 305 came out Saturday but waiting on the 350 still... the block I took down had a couple cracks

aziroc

those r the heads i have.. u will love them

camarojoe

People that always gripe about AFR's costing too much and being overrated need to look at those great pics. I agree that you'll love how they perform.

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

Gonna find out how good they are this week woohoo Not looking forward to the 500 mile break in period though Going to be hard to keep my foot out of it hehehe. Going down to talk with the engine builder today to see where he's at and to take down some old heads (hope he takes a couple of bucks off the bill ) $1,525 out the door for assembly, machine work, balancing, 350 block (mine was cracked) and misc parts.

Schultzy89GTA

Congrats EvilCartman dude!

I know that it was a frustrating wait for you... even longer than mine. I just changed the oil in the new 383 yesterday. I need to upgrade my fuel pump now... current one can't keep up with demand.

Good luck on the build up and install.

-Schultzy

heavy_chevy29

what did you pay for them and were did you get them. im going to orders those heads probably in dec. they should make some nice power on my 409

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

I got them right from AFR for $1,429.42 to the door 100 bucks short of what I'm paying to the engine builder lmao ah well... no real cheap parts in the engine so it should be good

heavy_chevy29

they are fully assemble like in the pic. right?

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

Yep, that's what they look like right out of the box. All I did was rip the plastic off them and take pictures. I think there was a note in the box that the rocker studs do need to be tightened since they're only snug for shipping.

96-speed

Looks nice. AFR has gotten their CNC stuff in high gear now. I bet your exhaust numbers are smokin .

Ryan

377ciTT

afr had trouble with there cnc'ing? well they sure do look nice now.....:lala: :lala:

:hail: i want a pair how much od htey cost bare?

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Looks really good. My 210 CC Race Ready ones were $1550 shipped to my door. They were complete with 76 cc chambers.

To answer your pricing questions here's the url to the price list http://airflowresearch.com/Airflow_Racer.pdf

Bare heads are towards the bottom of the list. Marked at $764 course reverse coolant heads are more.

Here's AFR homepage http://airflowresearch.com/

You can find tech articles, head part numbers and about everything else you could want there.

The trouble with the CNC'in was I believe just burs left in the pushrod holes. Which purchasers had to clean out themselves. Not a good idea to leave them there and fall into the oil. I agree though it's nice to see AFR has it all fixed now.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

I just got my heads and stuff back from the shop today. I purchased the heads from AFR on 10-11-02. Yeah I know it was a long time ago happens when you're a student and can't afford stuff right away.

I checked my heads I have some burrs near the push rod grooves. Nothing that wouldn't clean use with a little bit of fine sandpaper and a little time. Want to know what else I found? Well I was taking them out and checking on the work the shop did (checked all spring height and making sure the pressure is good for a solid roller). I heard a clanking noise of metal vs metal. I was like WTF they better have installed all the springs again. As I was getting mad I looked the heads over and guess what all studs and springs are in there place. I tilted the head again and heard it so I looked in all the pockets to see if they left anything above the valve.... nope

Well I kept on turning the head and angling it and this little disk of metal popped out. Boy that would have been a nice surprise if I didn't catch it before the head was installed.

swerve-driver

Good (and fortunate) catch. This disc came out of a coolant passage? And they had burrs on the pushrod passages? Dang.
Thanks for the post.
S-D

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Yeah I'm willing to bet that would definitly had hurt my coolant flow a little bit. I would have been pissed if I fired up the new motor only to warp a head on it after over 1200 bucks of machine work.

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

Not when you see them in person.
That cc'ing needs a lot of work to smooth them out.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Yeah I can tell you first hand the CNC does have a lot of bumps left over (kind of see that from the pics). I thought for the price they should have cleaned them up a little bit better. I'm not to worried about though I could polish them up, but I don't think I'm going to since the intake runner port size is around a Fel-pro 1206 on the head and I can only go up to a 1205 on the intake. I could have went to a 1206 but there wouldn't have been enough material left on my victor jr for comfort of mind.

swerve-driver

FT-
I wanted to ask- Is that disc of metal made of aluminum? It almost looks like it is a knockout from one of the coolant passages. Like when you crank down on a drill too hard and it just knocks out the last bit of metal (in a disc shape) instead of cutting it out as chips.
Any info appreciated-
Thanks,
S-D

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Yep that's exactly what it is. My guess is when they went to cut out the hole by some freak accident it slide inside the head. It's the exact size and it came out of the passage so it has to be how it happened.

Think I will drill a hole threw it and put in on a key chain. A good luck charm. *LOL*

89gta383

iTrader: (5)

Make sure you clean them out good before installing them, they have a bad habit of not cleaning everything out. I found a lot of crap on my magnetic drain plug years ago.

Also, you may have to modify your valve cover bolts to get them to seal correctly on the centerbolt heads.

Also, don't tighten the bolts down excessively, I've had to helicoil 4 intake bolt holes and 1 header bolt hole from the threads coming out.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Mine aren't going on centerbolts. This is a new 383 Carb motor so I bought a set of comp cams polymer type covers. For them you just go finger tight or you will break the polymer. I think I'm gonna go out to walmart tonight and get some 30W SuperTech to put on the block, rod, cranks, pistons, and heads what way with a coat of oil on it shouldn't rust at all. I'm still waiting cause I need to get PN's together and get gaskets, bearings, cam, liftes, pushrods, other little stuff like that.

Thanks for the warning on the exhaust and intake bolts!

383backinblack

jesus how tight did you crank those down?? i get my header and intake bolts pretty snug, and i havent had any galling or anything

89gta383

iTrader: (5)

Just pulling intake off and on with the superram to fix leaks, had to pull it maybe 5 times. Just torqued them to specs, then over time they back out then have to be tightened. Just checked the intake bolts last nite, and all of them are loose, so I will have to order the new bolts that don't back out and pull the intake and change gaskets again.

Over time the helicoil threads get fatigued and give up.

383backinblack

interesting......perhaps the aluminum in your heads wasnt a great lot of stock......ive had mine apart a million times, and my intake bolts and header bolts never backed out.......i havent helicoiled anything yet