dans82bird

What a piece of crap! First off I had to totally muck up the radiator fins to get the stupid probe in my radiator, then I get it all wired up and the inline fuse holder they put in the harness is defective! Now I wire in a new fuse holder, and guess what? Still not working! So meanwhile my cars running at 230 degrees and my freekin fan isn't coming on The stupid thermostat switch is defective. I just had to by-pass the stupid thing so my fan comes on with my ignition I'm gonna call them up and bitch like hell.. I hope they stand behind their product... So don't buy that thing, even before I bought it I was talking to one guy at the store (customer) and he said he replaces his like once a year. And the clerk kid said he put in the same exact kit and it didn't work either

Gumby

The cheap flexolite $30 adjustable fan temp switch that you can get in the summit catalog is just about as worthless.

It does work good for about a 1-2 months. It has a probe you must install inside the radiator hose but it still get funky after a while. Either it never comes on or it will never shut off. open the hood and twist the **** back n fourth and it resets and will work for a few days.

It not fun to find your car 3 hours later with the fan still running.

Thank *** I don't even need it anymore. After making an aluminum air dam and removing all my ac stuff, I do not even need a fan. Unless I sit still for 4-5 mins and then I have it switched with an old fog light switch.

Matt

Willie

iTrader: (1)

I've used the Hayden 3652 in all my third gens since 1992 and NEVER had one fail. Currently, I have one in both my Camaros and they work as designed.

Secondly, you cannot use their instructions to wire this switch UNLESS you want to completely bypass factory fan function. So there is no need to use the relay or fuse holder. All that needs to be wired is the thermal switch:

1) One pin is grounded.
2) The other pin is wired to a splice in the green/white wire at the factory fan relay.

dans82bird

My car didn't have an electric fan to begin with, so I wired it as a switched positive circuit. I put a terminal in my fuse block to come on with ignition to turn on the switch only when my cars on, but the switch is screwed up so that doesn't work I e-mailed Hayden and their going to send me a new switch

blackztpi

bought mine from hypertech. works great, but don't ghet the on at 160 one cuz it never actually lets the engine get to 160. get the 180 one or whatever it is.

pskel350

i use the adjustable hayden fan switch to, so far it works awesome, have had it it for over 6 months now.

just make sure its wired right and it should work great

laiky

there is a HUGE selection of single wire fan switches available from any parts store for less than 15 bucks each. get a borg warner or standard catalog from your parts guy and look in the back where thay list the specs for each switch. thats all hypertech and the like sell you, they just mark it up 100%.

Linearxlr8r

Try soldering two 220 Ohm resistors ($1.50 at Radioshack) together in series with each other, then solder the assembly inbetween the two leads to the fan switch in the cylinder head. Insulate everything really well so you don't ground anything. This tricks the computer into thinking the coolant temp. is higher than it is, as the resistance of the sending unit goes down as it heats up. With the added resistors in parallel to the sending unit, it effectively lowers the total resistance through the circuit.The two 220's gave me a fan turn on temp. of about 205 degrees rather than stock 235, and operates flawlessly.

iusedtobebrober

I have a haden adjustable fan switch, works great, only had to get the temp setup right, as far as messing up your rad, you are not supposed to put the prob in the rad anyway, the directions say you push the zip tie thingy through the rad and have the probe on the inside part of the rad toward the engine. BUT instead of doing that i zipped mine to the upper rad hose since this is the hottest coolant comming from the engine.