Chris90Formula

iTrader: (1)

What is your opinion of either Denny's Driveshaft or Inland Empire Driveshaft? I want to get a new aluminum driveshaft to cure my driveline vibration. I swapped out my stock steel one for an LS1 aluminum shaft. This helped reduce the vibration, but it is still there above 70 mph. I'm hoping a high speed balance shaft will work better.
Thanks,
Chris

Jstcrzyengh

iTrader: (2)

If the vibration is still there I would look at the engine having some balance issues. Possibly you picked up a bad driveshaft? Was the car ever hit (misalignment) I've done over 115 with the stocker and get barely any vibration, ls1 driveshaft I have never seen any vibration...

Just a thought...

However to answer your question I have heard great things about both...

mrr23

i thought denny's only made the grand slam breakfast?

vortex

i ordered some of their driveshafts for my 4x4.. they work good!

Chris90Formula

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the input. It is definetly not the engine because I can put it in neutral and the vib is still there. I'm pretty sure that the car was never hit.

mystikkal_69

iTrader: (2)

out of round tire? i had one of those before they balanced the hell of out my tires. it was "balanced", but it still kept on vibrating. i was getting real pissed off with the damn vibrating. then one of the older guys in the tire shop took a look at it and say the tire was out of round. put a new tire on there and no more shakes.

wesilva

iTrader: (35)

I would go ahead and have the your existing driveshaft balanced at a quality shop before I would go buy a new one. The machinist can tell you if it is bent or out of balance. Just hate to see you throw money at possibilities without results. If you can't find a dedicated driveline shop, surely a quality machine shop can do it for you.

Try calling Precision Driveline in Bogata (201) 498-1333 or Peformance Driveline in Danielsville, PA at (760-0145). I bet if they can't do it, they can help direct you.

abcx09t

Don't waste money on these Al Driveshaft things. Unless you are pulling 7 seconds on the strip, what do you think that the 10 pound weight savings will give you on a 3200 pound car? The AL DS usually cost about $275 and on up. You can get the stock one balanced for $50 or go get a new one made for ~ $225 at a local shop, see yellow pages. Al DS can be damaged easily and thrown out of balance, they are not repairable. You will be replacing the AL every three years due to some distress. I just had to ****can my AL DS (yeah I wanted to be cool too) because it had a small dent. I took it to two shops, both said no way they could balance it and it would be two hundred bucks to repair. The shaft had 0.028 inch runout at the rear and 0.060 inch in the front, thanks for **** GM...the manual allows 0.040 inch max runout. Also, if you want to do it yourself, the manual instructs you to balance the shaft with hose clamps!! Since I have no time for that, I got a 3.0 inch diameter 0.083 inch wall thickness steel driveshaft, balanced for $212. I reused my slip yoke and got new u-joints installed, greasable. It was painted black, but could be polished to look like Al. The shaft was compliments of Power Clutch and Drive, Curt Moore, in Cincinnati. BTW, I still have an engine vibe problem at 2500 rpm.

J's T/A

iTrader: (2)

when I did my Lt1 swap I switched over to an inland empire piece.. it is a quality driveshaft. No vibes whatsoever..

The weight issue I find curious.. not sure there is a ten pound difference.. I didn't weigh them but holding one in each hand they really felt about the same weight.. perhaps a three pound difference..

formul8!!

I recently swapped in an Aluminum shaft and weighed the stock one.

The stock steel was 15.3lbs and the aluminum is 12.4lbs.

1bad91Z

iTrader: (1)

I heard Inland Empire Driveshafts are best bang for the buck. Or just get an LS-1 Camaro SS driveshaft from GMpartsdirect.com

abcx09t

Taking your chances on the AL LS-1 driveshaft. That is the one I got and it was S***. The part was delivered with the 0.060 runout and it could not be balanced. Stick to steel. I guess 3.0 pounds makes the steel an even better buy since they way outlast the aluminum and they are repairable. Beware the AL shaft.

1bad91Z

iTrader: (1)

Thats why you buy a NEW aluminum shaft.

abcx09t

It was brand new from a dealership.

That is why you buy a steel one!

Scott_92RS

If aluminum is so inferior then why is(was) it a stock component on LS1 F-Bodies? Just because you had a bad expereince with one doesnt mean everyone will. My aluminum driveshaft had no problems with with, bought it for 100 shipped, ballanced it for like 30 bucks. It didnt get rid of my vibration (I had probs elsewhere), but I could fell a small seat-of-the-pants difference.

Jstcrzyengh

iTrader: (2)

Aluminum driveshafts were also used on the 1le and many GTA's and Z28's. It was/is chevrolet's performance driveshaft. Choosing a driveshaft I think honestly depends on what you will be doing. All out (700+hp) drag car a steel shaft is what most people will tell you to get. However, you can get carbon fiber and aluminum for just about anything else. In fact carbon fiber is actually used by many of the mini truck guys in there racing.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

You Get What You Pay For! cheap is cheap.. top name brand is Just that. Top!

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

i only use dennys driveshafts... great ppl and great products.

How much are the island empire DS? arent they like 400$?!?! for an aluminum DS that is only able to handle 500hp? thats BULLSHlT!!

I just purchased a nitrous ready DS from dennys... just got it yesterday for my ford Big block 521/C6 trans swap into my 87 bird with a ford 8.8. They are having a sale right now, 395$ for a 3" nitrous ready DS complete with forged trans yoke and 1350 series spicer solid ujoints, this DS is rated to 1400hp and is high speed balanced, painted and has a lifetime warranty. If i break it or twist it or snap a weld they replace it for free. the forged spicer trans yoke is very strong and the only thing stronger is a moly race peice. The 1350 ujoints are the strongest available and are HUGE! The steel the DS is made out is some inhouse material that they cam up with... its stronger than DOM and moly and dont even ask what it is bc they wont tell u wat kinda material they are made of. the tech guy told me hes using the same DS on a 1400hp drag car and they work great.

Aluminum shafts are only good for up to 800hp and are ok for spinning up alittle faster... but if your running a larger converter like 12" or a heavy flexplate/flywheel then your already killing your engine spin up time. You will break an aluminum one with enough shock/weight/hp.

heres some pics of the DS, total cost was 466$ but that was bc i needed a special ford flange to connect to the ford 8.8 and i needed hardware for the flange yoke (ford specific) those 2 peices cost me 45$ then the shipping was only 28$. DS weight is around 20lbs and is 43.75" long.

Tobias05

Well, if titanium is out of your budget, I'd probably go with a 3" steel from Denny's. I would then proceed to Denny's and order one of them damn waffles.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

waffles? dennys got waffles now!?! yumm

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (15)

waffles and driveshafts! hows that for one stop shopping

and this thread is 7 years old

injdinjn

DRIVELINES, Inc.

Drivelinesinc.com

Mission Viejo, Ca 949-951-9673

Balanced the factory one in my Grand Prix great service and competitive prices.

And the soda machine gives your money back.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Well that makes it worth it right there!