Anyone use Proform Roller Rockers?
#1
Anyone use Proform Roller Rockers?
I was thinking of buying some 1.6 ratio Proform Roller Rockers. They are a lot cheaper then the crane gold race rockers and I was wondering if anyone had an opinion about them, good or bad. By the way they need to be self-aligning.
#2
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Car: 1986 Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: th400
i've never used them.
But the word in the pits on them is they are junk and fatigue quickly, followed by self destruction. which... is bad mmmkay.
save your pennies and buy good, name brand stuff there.
But the word in the pits on them is they are junk and fatigue quickly, followed by self destruction. which... is bad mmmkay.
save your pennies and buy good, name brand stuff there.
#3
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Car: 2007 Corvette Z06
Engine: LS7
Transmission: 6 speed
I have them, 1.6RR self aligning and they fit under the stock centerbolt covers with no problems. They look the same as new after ~6,000 miles, when I took them off (I began to replace my 305 with a 350). I've heard from many people that all aluminum rockers fatigue and fail, but I've had no problems with mine and I would hit 5500rpm at least 4-5 times a day. I would choose either proforms or save some money and get chromoly ones which cost similar to the expensive aluminum ones.
#4
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Car: 1991 Z-28
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5 (gonna buy the farm)
I originally bought the roller tipped rockers. $ of those broke right at the fulcrum ball. Proform replaced the whole set with new aluminum rollers, and I have had no problems since. If I would do it over, I would get Crane, or Comps though. It doesn't settle to well that one set already broke. Bad things can happen when vlaves don't, or do open when they are not suppose to.
#5
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Car: projects.......
They're decent for a mild engine. If you go big, they won't take it. They're great for a little extra kick in a stock or other mild motor. I got a set of 1.6 self-aligners for my 355 Vortec headed TPI in my K-5 Blazer. I got them from CP(competition products) for $150. Their description says, "needs low spring pressures and good oil supply to survive". - I'd agree. Good rockers for the money. They're still a roller rocker, so they're still A LOT smoother than stockers.
later, justin...
later, justin...
#6
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Car: 90 IROC
Engine: 406
Transmission: GMPP 93/4L60
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27
I wont ever use them again, I had one break right in the middle of the rocker, after a few thousand miles. I think the aluminum is thin and weak in the area it should be the strongest. IM using comp cams steel ones now and have had no problems.
Ive read others having similar problems.
Ive read others having similar problems.
#7
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As I said, low spring pressures and good oil supply. I have never seen a Superrammed 406 w/ Trick Flow heads and "low spring pressure"... - no disrespect intended, just saying, the Proforms are a low-buck upgrade for stock or mild engines.
later, justin...
later, justin...
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#9
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I personally have not used them, but looks like the others that
have gave you good advice. I did use the Summit 1.6 roller tipped and had three fail breaking at the pushrod oil hole area. Very cheap castings. Oh, i considered the engine I put them on to be mild-- 305H.O. with .442int./.465exh. lift. As for true blue performance, My bad boy modded tran am has crower stainless 1.5 roller rockers which are awesome. Cam in it is .488int./.510exh @114* 284dur/290 with 2.02 world product sportsman torquer's. and all the mods. I'll will get it and still pass the gas station. 20mpg city and 24mpg hwy cruising at 80mph to 100mph. Cooooollll!!!
have gave you good advice. I did use the Summit 1.6 roller tipped and had three fail breaking at the pushrod oil hole area. Very cheap castings. Oh, i considered the engine I put them on to be mild-- 305H.O. with .442int./.465exh. lift. As for true blue performance, My bad boy modded tran am has crower stainless 1.5 roller rockers which are awesome. Cam in it is .488int./.510exh @114* 284dur/290 with 2.02 world product sportsman torquer's. and all the mods. I'll will get it and still pass the gas station. 20mpg city and 24mpg hwy cruising at 80mph to 100mph. Cooooollll!!!
#10
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Car: 1985 IROC Z-28
Engine: 355
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 3:73
I've had mine for 2 years, revved the engine to over 6500 RPM several times, even broke an ARP rocker arm stud (my fault...push rods were too short, and actually put the rocker arm in a bind), and their still takin' a lickin'.
#11
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Car: 92 Camaro
Engine: ZZ4 Crate Engine w/Hot Cam
Transmission: Rebuilt 700R4 with Transgo and MW 3
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton Posi
WASTE OF MONEY
Dont buy ANY roller rockers if its for the street. Mine didnt do me one bit of difference. Aluminum roller rockers were the biggest waste of $200 I ever spent on my car.
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Car: Bitchin' 92 RS
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
how can you say roller tips arn't an upgrade over stock?
would you rather have a flat block twisting on your head or a rolling wheel?
would you rather have a flat block twisting on your head or a rolling wheel?
#14
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Car: 92 Camaro
Engine: ZZ4 Crate Engine w/Hot Cam
Transmission: Rebuilt 700R4 with Transgo and MW 3
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton Posi
Originally posted by RebelRacer
how can you say roller tips arn't an upgrade over stock?
would you rather have a flat block twisting on your head or a rolling wheel?
how can you say roller tips arn't an upgrade over stock?
would you rather have a flat block twisting on your head or a rolling wheel?
For $200 you could have a cam or headers or better intake or higher rear gears, etc etc etc
#15
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Car: 81 Corvette
Engine: 355, ported vortec heads
Transmission: 700r4
My dad has been running the Harland Sharps on his blown 388 for about 10 years now with no problem. I know they aren't Proforms, but they are an affordable set that I know can take a heavy beating.
#16
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Car: 1989 IROC Z-28
Engine: L98 350--modified
Transmission: 700 R4--modified
Axle/Gears: 4:10 Posi
Originally posted by johnsjj2
I originally bought the roller tipped rockers. $ of those broke right at the fulcrum ball. Proform replaced the whole set with new aluminum rollers, and I have had no problems since. If I would do it over, I would get Crane, or Comps though. It doesn't settle to well that one set already broke. Bad things can happen when vlaves don't, or do open when they are not suppose to.
I originally bought the roller tipped rockers. $ of those broke right at the fulcrum ball. Proform replaced the whole set with new aluminum rollers, and I have had no problems since. If I would do it over, I would get Crane, or Comps though. It doesn't settle to well that one set already broke. Bad things can happen when vlaves don't, or do open when they are not suppose to.
After Iput some on a month ago, i broke one out in the rocker ball area. After I did an extensive search of them on this board, I found 6 or 8 people that had the EXACT same problem.
I just got through installing the Comp Cam Pro Mag steel rollers. U don't see that much of an improvement with ANY brand roller tip rockers. The roller tip only cuts down friction a very little bit. Full rollers get rid of the friction in a rocker ball type rocker arm. That's where U will see an improvement. If U go to 1:6, make sure your heads will flow the extra air and the springs will take the extra pressure. Otherwise U will be backing up--actually go slower!
Hmmm...somebody said they returned the roller tip rockers and they got full rollers as a replacement. I was gonna throw them away--maybe I'll send hem in--even though I will NOT replace the Comp Cams rollers with them--I'm sure I could find somebody that would want them brand new at a bargain price!
#17
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I'm wondering if a side benefit of roller rockers is reduced valve guide wear due to decreased side loading of the valve stem. I think the regular rocker tip on non-rollers pushes the valve stem downwards and sideways, however on roller-tips, in theory with a roller, it isn't possible to have side loading on the valve stem tip. The roller-tip rocker can only transmit force in the direction of the valve stem, not sideways. GM went to it on the LS1, wonder why... Of course, there's the other school-of-thought that says that in reality, there's no rolling going on with a roller-tip rocker arm, and that the roller is actually sliding across the valve-stem tip, not rolling across. I think they'll debate this till the end of time, at least up till 50,000 to 100,000 miles on the motor after which it starts "consuming oil". Myself, I'll go with the theory. I need all the help I can get. It's a daily driver.
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Car: 1989 IROC Z-28
Engine: L98 350--modified
Transmission: 700 R4--modified
Axle/Gears: 4:10 Posi
Originally posted by RPOL98
I'm wondering if a side benefit of roller rockers is reduced valve guide wear due to decreased side loading of the valve stem. I think the regular rocker tip on non-rollers pushes the valve stem downwards and sideways, however on roller-tips, in theory with a roller, it isn't possible to have side loading on the valve stem tip. The roller-tip rocker can only transmit force in the direction of the valve stem, not sideways. GM went to it on the LS1, wonder why... Of course, there's the other school-of-thought that says that in reality, there's no rolling going on with a roller-tip rocker arm, and that the roller is actually sliding across the valve-stem tip, not rolling across. I think they'll debate this till the end of time, at least up till 50,000 to 100,000 miles on the motor after which it starts "consuming oil". Myself, I'll go with the theory. I need all the help I can get. It's a daily driver.
I'm wondering if a side benefit of roller rockers is reduced valve guide wear due to decreased side loading of the valve stem. I think the regular rocker tip on non-rollers pushes the valve stem downwards and sideways, however on roller-tips, in theory with a roller, it isn't possible to have side loading on the valve stem tip. The roller-tip rocker can only transmit force in the direction of the valve stem, not sideways. GM went to it on the LS1, wonder why... Of course, there's the other school-of-thought that says that in reality, there's no rolling going on with a roller-tip rocker arm, and that the roller is actually sliding across the valve-stem tip, not rolling across. I think they'll debate this till the end of time, at least up till 50,000 to 100,000 miles on the motor after which it starts "consuming oil". Myself, I'll go with the theory. I need all the help I can get. It's a daily driver.
If I can get a pic taken and posted You will understand why. Other brans may be OK--don't know.
Do a search on Proform roller tip rockers and you'll see why also!
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