Aluminum rods vs. Steel rods
#1
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Car: 1987 Camaro IROC Z-28
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Aluminum rods vs. Steel rods
These are the rods I'm considering:
Aluminum- Manley 7075 aluminum rods
Steel- Eagle ESP Rods 4340 steel
Steel- Eagle SIR Rods 5140 steel
I don't know what the numbers mean. I don't know if higher is better. The SIR rods are about $200 less than the ESP and Manley rods. I'm looking at about 700 flywheel hp with forced induction. I would like to take suggestions please. or if you know any other brands that are comprable in quality and price. Thanks.
Ryan
Aluminum- Manley 7075 aluminum rods
Steel- Eagle ESP Rods 4340 steel
Steel- Eagle SIR Rods 5140 steel
I don't know what the numbers mean. I don't know if higher is better. The SIR rods are about $200 less than the ESP and Manley rods. I'm looking at about 700 flywheel hp with forced induction. I would like to take suggestions please. or if you know any other brands that are comprable in quality and price. Thanks.
Ryan
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Car: '00 Chevrolet Corvette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Those numbers refer to the SAE alloy designation.
43xx 1.83 nickel, 0.50 - 0.80 chromium & 0.25 molybdenum
51xx 0.80 - 1.00 chromium
xx denotes carbon content. I'm not to sure what the numbers mean on the aluminum. 4340 is stronger than 5140.
43xx 1.83 nickel, 0.50 - 0.80 chromium & 0.25 molybdenum
51xx 0.80 - 1.00 chromium
xx denotes carbon content. I'm not to sure what the numbers mean on the aluminum. 4340 is stronger than 5140.
#3
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rods..
Hey bro if this engine is a daily driver..pretty sure you need to go with a steel rod..dont believe the aluminum rods were made for daily use...could be wrong thou...later...
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Car: 1991 Z-28
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5 (gonna buy the farm)
Aluminium rods will last on the street, under normal use. There have been numerous articles about this in car mags. I wouldn't run them on the street due to the fact, no matter how you use them, they will stretch. If you don't keep an eye on this, they could potentially smack a valve if the clearance is low. The main benefit of aluminum rods is the weight reduction, and therfore a faster winding engine. This won't matter much on the street.
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Car: 1991 Z-28
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5 (gonna buy the farm)
LT-1 rods are forged, but they are made of powdered metal. They really don't have any other way to make them. These are a lot better than cast, or pink rods, but 4340, or 5140 rods would be a better bet.
#11
Originally posted by Mark305TBI
I'm not to sure what the numbers mean on the aluminum. .
I'm not to sure what the numbers mean on the aluminum. .
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Car: 1991 Z-28
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5 (gonna buy the farm)
I know aluminum still expands at a different rate than steel. If you fire up a cold aluminum rod equipped engine, and sing it to 7 grand, it just might see fit to leave town. This is why some pistons chatter until warmed up. Still, for regular street use, I wouls stay with steel. They will provide a long service life as long as they are properly taken care of. I guess aluminum will too, but its a lot more time consuming to check rods every 3000 miles or whatever the interval would be.
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Car: 87 IROC
Engine: 5.3L
Transmission: Jerico
Axle/Gears: Aluminum 8.6 w/ T2R
Originally posted by ronterry
So are you saying 3rd gen rods are Cast?
Ron
So are you saying 3rd gen rods are Cast?
Ron
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