need to find a high voltage alternator!!!!
#1
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Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 445
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From: Ellis Grove Il
Car: 1989 Camaro RS/ 1992 Camaro z28
Engine: 383 Stroker/ ls3 e-rod
Transmission: borge warner t-56/ tremech t-56
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, 3.55/ dayna 44(viper) 3.07
need to find a high voltage alternator!!!!
I have 2 12" memphis subs with 3 300 watt amps a alpine head unit along with 4 pioneer speakers and not enough battery power....lol. i want to get 2 optima batteries with batterie relocator kits so i have room to put my air compressor in the engine bay. now all of those electronics calls for a high voltage alternator. i need to find one that can charge both batteries nicely, and i dont have room for dual alternators. what do some of you recommend would be the best? or should i just have one batterie powering all my ignition and electronics????
#3
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,047
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From: Malvern, Arkansas
Car: 90 IROC 2-92 Zs blk vert & prpl
Engine: stealth ram brodix track 1 ful port
Transmission: 700r4 4l80e
Axle/Gears: iroc 375 lokr 92 Z 277 pos vert 327
big alternator
Any starter-alternator shop can take yours and put the higher output componants in it. The 140 is usually dependable (I have one) and isn't that expensive. Plus if it does go bad you can get it looked at locally without shipping hassles. Don't pay over a dollar per amp or you are getting ripped off. I payed $110.00. Go ahead and have them install new (good) bearings and brushes so you won't have to worry about. There are cheesy bearings that don't last very long.
#4
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,177
Likes: 55
From: Conroe, TX
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60e
I've got one of the chrome plated 140 amp alternators from Summit and it works great. It definitely takes some of the pep out of the engine...being a bigger load on it and all. Nice alternator though.
#5
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,232
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From: Readington, NJ
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/ 3.73
Bigger/better option: excessive amperage. MeanGTA can vouch for them and I will be able to as soon as I finish other projects I have going on and get around to buying one. Much higher output and a decent price ($300 new).
I would say dual batteries isn’t worth your time but it is with the compressor I suggest running one for you car and one for your stereo/compressor with a battery isolator between the two batteries. This way you can still play your system with the car off or raise/lower your car and you won’t have to worry about being able to start it later on.
Also, be sure to do the big 3.
I would say dual batteries isn’t worth your time but it is with the compressor I suggest running one for you car and one for your stereo/compressor with a battery isolator between the two batteries. This way you can still play your system with the car off or raise/lower your car and you won’t have to worry about being able to start it later on.
Also, be sure to do the big 3.
#6
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Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 1,734
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From: Westminster, MD
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 355 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
One, You need a high current alt., not a high voltage alt.
If you're going to be running bags, I would consider a 140A to be a minimum. Look into a 200A. Just got a Powermaster 200A for my truck. It was about $300.00 all said and done.
Dual batteries isn't bad idea if you're running the bag with the car off.
If you're going to be running bags, I would consider a 140A to be a minimum. Look into a 200A. Just got a Powermaster 200A for my truck. It was about $300.00 all said and done.
Dual batteries isn't bad idea if you're running the bag with the car off.
#7
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,500
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From: Dallas/Fort-Worth
Car: 1988 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI (L98)
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt 3.45
I use an Iceberg Alternator: http://www.alternatorparts.com/
You can purchase a rebuild kit or you purchase one that they built already. They use the stock CS-130 and provide heat sinks and build the power output to higher amperage. You can get the heat-sink 130 with 105amp, 140amp, and 170amp outputs.
NEW CS-130 and CS-130D page: http://www.alternatorparts.com/cs130_&_cs130d_alt.htm
You can purchase a rebuild kit or you purchase one that they built already. They use the stock CS-130 and provide heat sinks and build the power output to higher amperage. You can get the heat-sink 130 with 105amp, 140amp, and 170amp outputs.
NEW CS-130 and CS-130D page: http://www.alternatorparts.com/cs130_&_cs130d_alt.htm
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#8
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,204
Likes: 6
From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
Iraggi Alternators are suppose to be good too. http://stores.ebay.com/Iraggi-Altern...nd-Electronics
They offer different coverage plans too, including Lifetime replacement ($100 extra). It gives 1 free replacement after general warranty is up, then everytime after that is a flat fee for a new one. They also use to have trade in programs too, so if you changed vehicles they'll give you partial store credit.
They offer different coverage plans too, including Lifetime replacement ($100 extra). It gives 1 free replacement after general warranty is up, then everytime after that is a flat fee for a new one. They also use to have trade in programs too, so if you changed vehicles they'll give you partial store credit.
#9
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Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 445
Likes: 1
From: Ellis Grove Il
Car: 1989 Camaro RS/ 1992 Camaro z28
Engine: 383 Stroker/ ls3 e-rod
Transmission: borge warner t-56/ tremech t-56
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, 3.55/ dayna 44(viper) 3.07
#10
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,407
Likes: 1
From: Western Maryland
Car: 82z28
Engine: 406
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.23
i dont recomennd iraggi. they have bad feedback on quite a few of the audio boards.
Lotsa good info here
http://www.splbassx.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4604
Alterstart http://www.4alterstart.com/ (I have one on my car, lifetime warranty and performs excellent)
Excessive Amperage http://www.excessiveamperage.com/
Ohio Generator http://www.ohiogen.com/
Stinger http://stingerelectronics.com/
Excessive Amperage http://www.excessiveamperage.com/
Ohio Generator http://www.ohiogen.com/
Stinger http://stingerelectronics.com/
http://www.splbassx.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4604
#11
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,281
Likes: 0
From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Originally Posted by Gummie
Bigger/better option: excessive amperage. MeanGTA can vouch for them and I will be able to as soon as I finish other projects I have going on and get around to buying one. Much higher output and a decent price ($300 new).
#12
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 0
From: Readington, NJ
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/ 3.73
Originally Posted by ScrapMaker
Gummie, what amperage did you get for $300? Also, what voltage does it rest at? Idle amp output?
http://sethirdgen.org/cs144.htm <-- link to how to install a cs144
#13
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,281
Likes: 0
From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
do 4th gens use cs144? or cs130d?
anyways, I wonder if it would be smarter just to have a local shop rebuilt the alternator to higher amperage.. so I can have local warranty coverage...
anyways, I wonder if it would be smarter just to have a local shop rebuilt the alternator to higher amperage.. so I can have local warranty coverage...
#17
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 960
Likes: 1
From: Wichita KS
Car: 1987 GTA/1998 Explorer
Engine: 355, trick flow heads, zz409 cam, 3
Transmission: 700r4, shift kit, valve body
Axle/Gears: precision 3.73's, auburn diff
i've been extremely happy with the performance of my 200 amp excessive amperage, over 900 rpm. problem is, i've got a real lumpy cam, and i like to idle about 650, get that nasty RUMP RUMP RUMP sound.
under 800 rpm or so, my voltage drops to 11-11.5, which is lower than most amps like to play at full output. i talked to nathan at EA, and he said to send it back and he could make it start charging lower, i just never got around to it. so its definitely a good company, nathan will go out of his way to make sure you're satisfied. i just turn my system down when i stop.
mean green is another great alt. company i dont think anyones mentioned.
http://www.mean-green.com/
under 800 rpm or so, my voltage drops to 11-11.5, which is lower than most amps like to play at full output. i talked to nathan at EA, and he said to send it back and he could make it start charging lower, i just never got around to it. so its definitely a good company, nathan will go out of his way to make sure you're satisfied. i just turn my system down when i stop.
mean green is another great alt. company i dont think anyones mentioned.
http://www.mean-green.com/
#18
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,281
Likes: 0
From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
My WS6 idles at 500.... I want full output at idle if possible... I mean, it's not very often your crusing down the highway blasting your system... it's for tailgate parties and whatnot... so idle is very important...
#19
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 0
From: Readington, NJ
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/ 3.73
Originally Posted by ScrapMaker
Hey Gummie... that CS-144 250AMP for $355... do you have any info? like what amperage does it put out at idle? highway?
Originally Posted by 1meanGTA
i've been extremely happy with the performance of my 200 amp excessive amperage, over 900 rpm. problem is, i've got a real lumpy cam, and i like to idle about 650, get that nasty RUMP RUMP RUMP sound.
under 800 rpm or so, my voltage drops to 11-11.5, which is lower than most amps like to play at full output. i talked to nathan at EA, and he said to send it back and he could make it start charging lower, i just never got around to it. so its definitely a good company, nathan will go out of his way to make sure you're satisfied. i just turn my system down when i stop.
mean green is another great alt. company i dont think anyones mentioned.
http://www.mean-green.com/
under 800 rpm or so, my voltage drops to 11-11.5, which is lower than most amps like to play at full output. i talked to nathan at EA, and he said to send it back and he could make it start charging lower, i just never got around to it. so its definitely a good company, nathan will go out of his way to make sure you're satisfied. i just turn my system down when i stop.
mean green is another great alt. company i dont think anyones mentioned.
http://www.mean-green.com/
Originally Posted by ScrapMaker
My WS6 idles at 500.... I want full output at idle if possible... I mean, it's not very often your crusing down the highway blasting your system... it's for tailgate parties and whatnot... so idle is very important...
This brings two thoughts to mind: if you have a 200/250/300 amp alternator that means that you’re not going to need full output anyway unless you’re cranking the **** out of the stereo in some parking lot pissing off all the people around you (I personally hate it when people do that). Also, the rough rule of thumb (10 watts = 1 amp of current) puts you at around 1200 or so watts conservatively for the 200 amp at idle, probably closer to 1600 or so realistically.
Also, why not just run two batteries with an isolator and a deep cycle in the trunk? Run the trunk battery dead with the stereo, start the car with the car's battery when you're done, and charge the stereo battery on the way home. I’m thinking about doing this for the summer because I constantly find myself playing expensive boom box at social gatherings, etc.
Why would you want your car idling with the system on anyway? Exhaust = annoying when you're trying to listen to music and my exhaust system isn't as agressive as 90% of the people on the boards.
#20
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 960
Likes: 1
From: Wichita KS
Car: 1987 GTA/1998 Explorer
Engine: 355, trick flow heads, zz409 cam, 3
Transmission: 700r4, shift kit, valve body
Axle/Gears: precision 3.73's, auburn diff
i knew about the smaller pulleys but nobody i've ever asked has been able to show me where to get them. do you know?
really the only time i've ever wanted to slam stopped is when some fool comes up next to me with their stock integra system blasting some lil wyte oxycottin or some **** like that. i'll let em know whats up, and its fine to bump for a few seconds at low voltage like that, never put my amps into protect or anything.
really the only time i've ever wanted to slam stopped is when some fool comes up next to me with their stock integra system blasting some lil wyte oxycottin or some **** like that. i'll let em know whats up, and its fine to bump for a few seconds at low voltage like that, never put my amps into protect or anything.
#21
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,281
Likes: 0
From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Gummie... the second battery has crossed my mind many times... but I could have sworn that it was VERY bad for alternators to charge a dead battery...
are these superior alternators that don't care?
and actually... I have this little microcontroller that starts my car when my voltage dips below 10.5 for more than 10 seconds straight... then stops the engine after 12 minutes...
I should really get all that installed on my new car... I miss my remote start and window operation..
are these superior alternators that don't care?
and actually... I have this little microcontroller that starts my car when my voltage dips below 10.5 for more than 10 seconds straight... then stops the engine after 12 minutes...
I should really get all that installed on my new car... I miss my remote start and window operation..
#23
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 0
From: Readington, NJ
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/ 3.73
Originally Posted by 1meanGTA
i knew about the smaller pulleys but nobody i've ever asked has been able to show me where to get them. do you know?
really the only time i've ever wanted to slam stopped is when some fool comes up next to me with their stock integra system blasting some lil wyte oxycottin or some **** like that. i'll let em know whats up, and its fine to bump for a few seconds at low voltage like that, never put my amps into protect or anything.
really the only time i've ever wanted to slam stopped is when some fool comes up next to me with their stock integra system blasting some lil wyte oxycottin or some **** like that. i'll let em know whats up, and its fine to bump for a few seconds at low voltage like that, never put my amps into protect or anything.
Low voltage isn't bad for your system, it just means that you will be putting out less power (wattage) than you otherwise could be putting out. The only time your amps would go into protect is if the battery drops below 10.5v.
Originally Posted by ScrapMaker
Gummie... the second battery has crossed my mind many times... but I could have sworn that it was VERY bad for alternators to charge a dead battery...
are these superior alternators that don't care?
and actually... I have this little microcontroller that starts my car when my voltage dips below 10.5 for more than 10 seconds straight... then stops the engine after 12 minutes...
I should really get all that installed on my new car... I miss my remote start and window operation..
are these superior alternators that don't care?
and actually... I have this little microcontroller that starts my car when my voltage dips below 10.5 for more than 10 seconds straight... then stops the engine after 12 minutes...
I should really get all that installed on my new car... I miss my remote start and window operation..
The car starting thing won’t matter if you’re running isolated batteries because it shouldn’t be able to see the second battery’s voltage with the car off. That feature is designed to prevent you from having a car that won’t start because of low voltage.
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