Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Ok, so for the majority of last year ive been gathering LSx parts to put a 5.3L into my 92 firebird

My $200 long block has bumped up to around $1600 for the entire package


A trans from Bryan in the local club traded for some GTA wheels


Non AC heater box pre' rust repair. Word to the wise, a cheap tin box is likely cheap for a reason. A side note, Fiero blower fans fit right in there and have the correct height cage


With my fuel system in and box of mandrel exhaust bend, I decided I was ready for the swap


Last drive with my faithful LO3, I took it up to 100 just cause and it actually made it there . Both motor mounts had collapsed and the headers were beating the tar out of the K-member. Not a huge problem, it just sounded god awful


Goodbye LO3. 296,000 miles of service. If anyone is looking for a GREAT DD engine or first V8 for a teenager, the LO3 wont let you down. I wont hesitate to buy another one


Attempting to drop the tank. My filler neck must be bent because this thing flat out wasnt coming out. Ive dropped a dozen or so tanks and this one absolutely refused, so I swapped the pump with it hanging


Next, was the teardown. I didnt bother taking pics I was so busy, but just about everything in the engine bay and trans tunnel came out. Fuel lines too. The exhaust was cut right at the Y and the K-member bolts broken loose

Lowered, and the bolts removed. My steering box was worn out so I pulled it too. Notice the harness came out WITH the engine. So much easier this way. Undo the C100 and C207 and its ready to come down

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

For my exhaust, plan A was to modify some 4th gen MAC headers. They flat out wont work. Two primaries on each side must be redesigned. I was prepared to reangle some collectors at most, these will be my test stand headers now. I fell back on the tried and true Fbody manifolds. Its a stock 5.3L, I dont need gobs of performance. But still, headers are just cool


The next day i left my camera at home. Oh well, most of the day was wasted so I just did some degreasing and got the new drivetrain ready to install. Only had 6 hours to work with

Day 3 was quite productive. Engine is in, fuel system run


For anyone installing the engine from the bottom, I highly recommend installing atleast the trans and cyl head grounds of the harness BEFORE putting the engine in. The LSx is significantly closer to the firewall than a SBC so you wont be able to swing harness leads around with ease. When I built this I made the trans wiring about 6" longer than necessary. Because i couldnt stuff it directly down the trans tunnel, I had to add around 2 feet and my neat wiring near the firewall hole became a nasty jumble. 2 1/8" is the perfect size hole saw to fit your connectors through. I used some leftover fuel hose split longways as insulate against the sharp metal


Im not at all pleased with the 4th gen battery tray. From the reading Ive done, it seemed to be a simple cut a hole and drop it in install. Not even close. I cant remember where, but someone said line up the 3rd gen hold down bolt with the new one and make a template from there. If you do that then the fender will catch the bottom of the tank and the fill neck will be in the rail . My perfect location was over the frame rail nearly 1". The down side is it doesnt sit flat on the battery tray anymore, its sole support is the one through bolt near the rail. Ill have to fashion some sort of brace near the fender to better support the weight. Also pictured is the S10 5 pole power distribution block. Power wires were routed behind the fender. Battery cables are a rarely discussed subject for such a swap. I found my LO3 cables fit PERFECTLY. It was freaky how great they fit. The alt output is a 6ga cable I found on some truck in the JY. I really cant remember what it was on but its like 12 feet long and 6 ga. Advance auto wont have the correct terminals to mate the alt stud or power block. Get some repair lugs from tractor supply, but be careful on the install, they're $7/pair


Hoses yield different results in every search. Most agree the 93-95 3.4 Fbody upper hose fits great, and it does. The lower is a debate. I went with the 90 Ford F250 7.5L lower and am very happy. The rad side needs 1.5" trimmed off, the WP side needs approx 4" or just beyond the flared part. The flared part is better than 1/4" bigger than the Fbody WP, with it cut off, the fit is great and it can be clamped down for a good seal. It also well clears the idler arm. You can barely make out how I solved the steam line issue. I simply Teed it into the overflow line


After all the fluid and cables were addressed, it was time to try and start her up. A few cycles of the fuel pump and she sputtered to life briefly. 2-3 more starts and it held on its own. I tried to take a video but the open manifolds maxed out the sound so it was just a stare at the engine bay, same thing a pic can do. No, my MAF wont be there forever, once the new intake is built, it will be moved behind the filter in the drivers battery tray


For some reason my MIL is on constantly during run, even before it gets warmed up (crank relearn?). Ill have a friend come by and pull the codes tomorrow. My tach also is in-op. Ill recheck the circuit from the PCM to the C100, if it checks out Ill try the booster wire. The rest of my gauges seem to function, oil reads 55psi at idle, water warmed up very quickly (like 2 mins to operating temp), alt showed great charge on my low battery

Idle is kinda wierd. After startup itll flash to 2000rpm (guess) for about 5 seconds and then drop to around 1500rpm (guess) and hold until it warms up then drop even lower. Hopefully thats normal

Tonite I polished up ALL of the engine bay stuff. Tomorrow will strictly be exhaust work. My LM1 catback sounded great behind my LO3. Lets hear it behind a LM7

A few recommendations for people doing their research, grab a TON of metric M10x1.5mm bolts, the shorter the better. Ill be I cut a dozen down with a cutoff wheel to use as grounds and other various hole downs. Get a GOOD set of tap and dies with an extensive drill index. A few strips of raw steel from lowes will make the small fabs needed here and there much easier. Dont forget hose clamps! Lots of them, whatever you counted, double that and you might have enough. I robbed all of them off the racecar and still had to reuse all of the LO3 clamps. The booster line for a LS1 is bigger than the booster on a 3rd gen, you will NOT fit a 3/8 hose over it. LS2 small coils may seem like any other truck coils, but they are mounted even higher. I bent the crap out of my fuel line and STILL had to tilt one coil slightly to clear. For non-AC swaps, use the Fbody coils

Whew, Im beyond needing a beer, wheres the rum

chevyowner02

iTrader: (3)

Looks good,glad to see you finally get it in.

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

Nice info Pocket, & great progress man! Can't wait to see that sucker accelerating like it never has before...

silent420wolf

hey there pocket, love your work here on this site. i am following your swap doing mine. got a question about the fuel setup you have accomplished. can you give more details as to what components you use and where to purchase. I have a Lt1 setop right now so where to go from there. thanks. will a corvette regulator work...

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

looking good man- cant wait to hear it!

motenkjr

iTrader: (1)

Dude....you have a lift at home...wtf? In all seriousness, that looks great man. You'll be driving in no time.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Friends garage

It makes life SOOOO much easier

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Looks great man! Nice work, and some nice touches I havent seen.

I hear ya on the 4th gen overflow. I ditched that idea when I went to my 86. Just wasnt worth cutting the hole. Whoever said line up the bolt holes was incorrect. When I swapped mine, I used the 4th gen donor as a template. I just cut the area out of the 4th gen, laid it in, and made the hole. But the combination of having to bolt the bottle down, AND have threads for the battery hold down was a pain. Not enough metal around there to cut threads, and I was too lazy to weld nuts on the underside of the tray. Not to mention you hvae to modify/remove half that fender brace. So I just decided I can live with a nice new 3rd gen overflow since they are so cheap.

As for your weird idle situation, it might just need to relearn the idle. Do you have the IAT hooked up? I guess more air could be making its way through the MAF since you dont have a filter or piping restricting it... I wouldnt worry about that until you finalize things and get ready to drive it. If it still does it after your first drive and after a few start up cycles, you might have to track that down.

What did you have tuned out of the computer? You might be getting codes for EVAP, VATS, Fuel Level...lots of little hidden codes that like to pop up even with things tuned out of the computer. Just trial and error for some. Have to set them to "OFF" as they pop up. Some might be actual issues you'll need to address.

But it starts and runs! So you cant be TOO far off with everything! Good luck and keep us posted!

J.

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

congrats on getting your project going. good to see you're playing with your stuff for once instead of answering all of our questions

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

The idle issue doesnt really bother me, it was more of a "Hey thats wierd". The truck MAF has the IAT built in and was plugged up for the test fires. I havent given the issue much thought. Thats into the fine tuning phase

I didnt have a 4th gen laying around to pull a template from. I traced the perimeter of the tank onto a piece of paper and marked it in my tray. Eventually I may dump the 4th gen tank, weld up my butchered tray and use a Honda overflow. They are VERY compact

A local club member did the rough tune. I have an appointment on sunday for a final road tune to clear up any possible issues that may remain. The PCM was a complete reflash from the V6 van tune to a 5.3 truck/5.7 car hybrid tune

To do list:
Exhaust
CAI
Bleed brakes
Reassemble interior
Put the Y2K wheels back up front and get a proper alignment
Final tune

Some time down the road Ill redo the light harness. I dont like all the stuff going over my booster and down the framerail. The headlight module will be moved behind the fender

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Well, now i know what lower hose to use, i think i will be using the truck WP, so i still dont know what upper to use.

cam-

Welcome to the club I used to belong too... My LS1 is out now

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

You said in your other thread that a TH700 dipstick tube fits fine. You had me worried that a 4L60E dipstick doesn't fit. I think I see now why you used the TH700 dipstick. . .

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Just so there's no misunderstanding, that will only work with a pressurized overflow tank.

Awesome-X

Nice pocket! Looks like you're making great progress, and quick!

Stevo

iTrader: (45)

Nice progress! I really enjoy watching these builds. Hope to get back to my car soon.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Either or fit fine. The 4th gen piece was designed to fit under the long cowl so it looks out of place in the 3rd gen bay. The retainer tab doesnt have anything to bolt to so I used a conduit clamp on the back of the cyl head

Im not sure why Bryan killed the tube so badly, I assume there were some words involved

So Ill have to move it?

Guess I need to dig up that Ford heater hose adapter PN

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I think so. The pressure in the system would just bleed off of that line through a vented overflow tank.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Did the exhaust today

Before i begin, heres the center piece of the fuel system


Showing the beginning and massive crossmember


Whats up with this?


Pic of my homemade flange, some pipe and the HO2 with gobs of room. Dont nit-pick too hard, Im very rusty at welding


Preparing to Y


New crossmember before paint


Installed, its surprisingly strong. It held my weight without changing angle. Before I began I stuck an angle finder on the DS with the UMI crossmember. I forgot about the rubber mount compression during fab of this piece so the trans dropped 1*. Ill use some washers to pick it back up


Rear shot


I want to get all the gaskets installed before another run session. No point listening to leaks everywhere

New lessons for the day

L/R manifolds have very different gaskets. Check that you have two different ones before leaving the store. Ive got two passenger side ones

Shoe laces are extremely flammable for some reason

If you cant find any O2 bungs or the local muffler shop has closed, dont fret. Any local parts store will sell spark plug antifoulers. Get a pair of the large plug spacers and cut the bottom off. They use the same thread as your O2s

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

That my friend is very good infor, LOL. Thanks, i think i will buy one for a bung to block off the PS that i will not be using.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

Hey, that S10 power dist. block location looks might familiar

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Great minds think alike

ShMaCk2004

what exhaust manifolds are you running?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Fbody cast irons

ShMaCk2004

well that makes me happy then, i didn't realize they fit THAT good

thenjoshsays

iTrader: (1)

Lookin good, Pocket! Glad to see ya getting to do this - I was wondering when you'd be making the swap. Doing all those harnesses for everyone else getting to swap would make me a bit anxious

ShMaCk2004

He does harnesses? whats the price on that?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

PM me

Drivers manifold gasket wont be in until tomorrow so no sound clip of the LM1

I stuffed the PCM under the dash in the old ECMs location. Removed the old cruise module/bracket then it slid right in like it was made to go there. I notched the hush panel with a razor similar to what ghettocruiser did

Hooked the throttle pedal up and adjusted it to hit WOT. Im not sure of the purpose to the wierd metal bracket bolted to the pedal but after skinning my knuckles a second time it went flying across the shop never to be used again. Function seems fine without it

Interior is done, bleed the brakes, install the gaskets and itll be test drive time

How lovely it decided to snow, so there will be no school tomorrow or test driving

ShMaCk2004

did you have to extend any wires for the behind dash mount?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

When I build a harness, I chose the PCM location before I place the first sensor wire

Its the same length as this, just without the AC wiring. I had ample length under the dash

ShMaCk2004

nice work there
The thing is Im hoping to not have to extend wires. Its not that I cant do it (Im actually a pro when it comes to soldering and wiring things) I'de just rather not have to deal with it because thats ALOT of wires.
I want my ecu behind the dash but it looks like Im gonna have to just put it in the engine bay or suck it up and extend the wires.

thenjoshsays

iTrader: (1)

Hey Pocket - I know this isn't pertinent to your swap, but how do you go about putting together the harnesses that you ship off for everyone? Do you have a pegboard together with different sensor locations... work off of a dummy motor...?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Mockup engine

If I actually did enough wiring to attempt a business venture, I may build a permanent board

thenjoshsays

iTrader: (1)

You going to have an extra LS motor laying around once this guy is all put in?!

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

I bought a 98 5.7L LS1 to slowly piece together a swap. I found a great deal on a complete 5.3 longblock and went that route instead

thenjoshsays

iTrader: (1)

So if ya don't mind the question... why'd ya choose to run with the smaller motor?? I mean I know they're no slouch either... but still.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

The 5.3 was a complete long block. The 5.7 had multiple small parts missing that I couldnt source for as cheap as Id like. I chose it for the cost and peace of mind factor

Original intentions were to keep the 5.7 shortblock around incase the 5.3 ended up with a spun bearing, or whatever, then I could swap all the 5.3 stuff onto it. A test fire on the engine stand sounded fine so I went ahead with the 5.3

20hp less wasnt a deal breaker for my DD and any mods I may do in the future will interchange freely with the 5.7 or even 6.0

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Snow melted away before turning bitter cold so I drove it home. Not bad, drive in - drive out in 5 days

Anyways, my first issue was overheating. Apparently LSx engines need to be burped multiple times before the thermostat pops. Its all good now

MIL was on the whole drive home (10 miles) and it had zero power. Pulled the codes and got a pile of emissions junk, misfire, and inj open circuit. INJ circuit was the key, during the install #8 wasnt fully seated. Plugged it up right, cleared the codes and she pulls hard. I still have the damned emissions codes. Mike will fix those sunday

The high idle issue is still present. Id guess its around 2,000rpms. A few searches points to either idle relearn being difficult or a vacuum leak. All 5 vacuum ports are accounted for, so its either a bad MAP grommet or bad intake gaskets. Neither are big deals

Tach issue Ill address tomorrow when its not bitter cold and see where its actually idling at. I got the resistor, just no desire to freeze my extremities anymore

Odd bit was the speedo is in-op. I bypassed the buffer box and have a good connection from the PCM connector to inst cluster. Maybe the truck tune needs a little help

I took a few pics of the cleaned up engine bay then my camera batteries died. LM1 sounds ok, but Id like it more if it was idling better

The drive wasnt the same feel as any 3rd gen Ive been in. It was very smooth and controlled, like a 4th gen. My bird has identity issues

I moved the steam line from the overflow line to a custom fittings in the heater lines. I cut a short length of the old heater metal tube that ran along the frame rail and welded a piece of trans line on it to make a T. Now the steam line is in a pressurized system. I like the layout better because the battery area has less hoses running everywhere

Before the drive, I had to bleed the brakes. Whoever designed the nipple for the front calipers needs to be shot. Both sheared right off with no real force
Luckily I was able to drill them out and install new fittings. Brakes seem a little stiff to what they used to be. I hope its a vacuum leak causing most of my issues

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

This sounds wayyy to familiar. I bought a 98 LS1 long block (sans everything but the guts) a few months back and was gonna buy piece by piece, but found a complete pull out 5.3L for $400 last month. Seemed cheaper than trying to buy everything I was missing. Also buys me time to do what I want to the LS1 instead of rushing into things

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Speedo is fixed and works perfectly. I had the C207 pin wrong

Tach is resolved via resistor but at 1/2 value. No biggie, the tuner can adjust that easily

High idle is still present though, intake gaskets were replaced because they absolutely needed it. Hosed the whole thing down with carb cleaner and no change. I think its in the tune

Scanner showed good readings from TPS, MAP, IAC, IAT, MAF, O2s, CTS

Unpluged the MAF and idle was the same

Ugh

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

Shoot, my MAF doesn't work apparently. I paid someone for a Z06 piece and the only thing that works on it is the IAT, which is more important I suppose.

So when do we get to see vids? I know I'm not the one to talk, it took me forever to get videos of mine

I'm thinking you could make some decent money doing wiring for people. There's a LOT of people like me that are comfortable with everything about the swap except for the wiring.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

So did I for a while, I havent done one since the first week of Jan

Cant even sell the ones I have premade

I have a spare MAF along with all the other essential sensors Ill bring with me when I visit the tuner. Something will get fixed

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Last pic before the camera died. The darn thing is so old it uses AA batteries and we're completely out

Anyways, you can see the cleaned up pass side. All battery cables are tidy, the coolant lines are gone, the steam line T's into the heater core line and I swapped my homemade blockoff plates (1/8" plate stock) for some better ones. They are the stock A.I.R. tubes with the tubes cut off and holes welded shut

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

I dug up some batteries and cleaned the engine bay up some

Aside from the intake connectors, this is as far as she goes

Overview. Looks empty compared to the 3rd gen harnesses, hoses and tanks that choked the bay before


Drivers side. Tons of room. Stock brake lines fit behind the steering shaft with a gentle bend


Pass side. Even MORE room. One day I might swap the heater hoses for some with a sharp 90* on the ends to get them out of the middle of everything. I like how the oil cap fits flush to the valve cover. The stock neck looks great when coil covers are used, but without it looks a little too happy to see you


You cant see the hole for the PCM harness bundle at all. The doubled over pigtail is for the digital cruise module I havent installed yet


4" tube fits great with a trim or two. Cut off the old rad hose holder and shave some off the upper left mount for the single fan


Battery tray, power block and barely visible relays in the shadows


Overview


I like it

thenjoshsays

iTrader: (1)

Dun good Very clean too... did a great job of tucking it all away nicely. Can't wait to get around to my own.

Awesome-X

Me too, I think its about time for you to start on mine

75/92 Birdman

iTrader: (4)

I think I even created a few new ones.

I've removed dozens of transmissions over the years, this dipstick just decided to fight me for some reason. I think I won.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Can't blame you there!

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

nice ducttape.