BMmonteSS

Now that I have you in here, I’m gonna beat you with the tech stick. There have been several people who have data logged but now don’t know where to go next. There are also several others who want the benefits of tuning but don’t want to take the plunge into chip burning…..this is your thread.

I’m going to start with a short intro with lots of links to the cheapest equipment and short comments on them to explain the TBI aspect of each. I’m not going to rehash all the basic info that so many others have worked very hard to compile, and post. I will post links to their work. Then we’re going to start with who ever post a data log and .bin file first. I’m going to basically make changes and repost the .bin file for all to see and to STUDY, I’ll explain what I changed and how along with screen shots and tips, the catch is that the guinea pig is going to have to demonstrate that they are understanding and absorbing what I’m doing for them and eventually start making changes for themselves. The only problem with this is that some $^#* is going to steal these bin files and start selling them to uneducated consumers. I hope that we can get so many bin files posted that people will realize all they need is a burner and they can pick a bin file that most closely matches their combo and start from there. Heck if they just buy the equipment and only burn Jimbob’s header only bin then at least the good guys of the hobby (Moates, tuner cat, tunerpro) will get their money instead of the bottom feeding companies that offer mail order crap. This way at least when things go terribly wrong with a cam swap Mr. “I don’t wanna tune” will have the tools necessary to fix his car.

First off here are the links to all the chip burning FAQ’s and stickies.

TBI Sticky – prom and TBI related info here
Traxions Intro to Prom Burning – Good read but a bit dated
Prom burning FAQ book – everything you need to know, use this as a “glossary” to find what you need.

You seriously need to just read over them even if it doesn’t make sense, hopefully when I show something here it will turn a light on in your head and you’ll remember where to go to get more info.

First thing you need is an aldl cable and scanning software.

WinALDL – this is the easiest to use and what I’ll be using for an example, and it’s FREE

DIY cable – these are schematics to build your own cable for 5$, do NOT use the 10K resistor between A and B and build the second schematic listed here without the external 12v

Link to cable manufacturer – here’s you option if you don’t solder, they run about 40$ and there are some on ebay and I think Jprevost also builds cables.

With TBI we don’t need the “max 232” cable, we can get by with the cheapy one.

Once your up and data logging you need software to edit your chip, your chip contains a .bin file that has all the parameters in it that make your car run. I’ll be using Tuner Pro, since it’s free and pretty nice.

Tuner Pro – Free but please make a donation to Mark he’s worked is butt off for us.

Tuner Cat – Not fee but some people feel it’s easier to use, and has less hiccups I use it for odd ball applications (my dads 93 S-10)

Now that you have the program, you need a “definition file” to tell the program where certain parameters are located on your particular .Bin file and to assign a name to these parameters. These definition files go by several names,

.ecu – generally circulated def. Files
.xdf – Tunerpro specific, stores additional data that ecu file can’t, can convert .ecu to .xdf
.tdf – Tuner Cat specific, these aren’t free so please don’t distribute or post these

These files are related to each mask, a mask is basically a code set that can be run in several ecm’s LO3 and LO5 engines were run with a “746” ecm that has a $61 mask so we need a $61.ecu which I attached. Lastly we need a .bin file, these changed with years, transmission and even emissions. Luckily there are only 2 or 3 for an LO3. We might also dabble with the “747” ecm that was used in the trucks and is a close cousin to the 746, very little is different. The mask is called $42. Which I’ll also attach. Some ecm’s will run different mask to run different motors, most of the TPI stuff interchanges with the V-6 models and only differ by mask.

Ok lastly we need a burner, and a socket in our ecm. There is a slight hitch with TBI that most beginners get all squirmy about, DON’T. From the factory our ecm’s use a 24 pin UV erasable chip called a 2732. These suck, the eraser is expensive ($50) the chips are no longer made and only half of your new chips will work. Luckily the easy way around this is to use flash erasable chips either 29c256 or 27sf512. These chips are only 5$ a piece and can be erased by your burner. The hitch is that they are 28 pin chips and require an adapter. Moates sells this adapter here. It’s best to solder a conventional 24 pin socket into your ecm and then plug this into it, our factory socket is made to use the plastic holder thingy which is darn near impossible to change chips in and out of. The problem is most people don’t like soldering and sockets can be a bit tuff to replace. Moates offers a service to socket your ecm. I’ve used this adapter with the stock socket, I just put a dab of hot glue to keep it from vibrating off, but even this isn’t really necessary, your adapter will touch all the pins but won’t be as secure as a std. Socket. You also want to pick up a ZIF which is nothing more than a quick release for your chip, this makes changing chips a breeze and eliminates the chance of bending a pin. Ok that’s it that’s the hitch, it isn’t that bad.

Now on to burners, you have 2 options for entry level chip burners (I’m not going to go into emulators and the autoprom, but search for info on it if you have 300$+ to spend). My first choice would be the flash and burn , it’s cheap and it does what we need to do. The only problem is that it won’t program 2732 chips….which isn’t a problem if you’re using flash chips. It will however read 2732 chips so you can download your stock bin. The other option is the pocket programmer, it will do any type of chip but cost a bit more and requires a printer port.

One last TBI specific hint, since we are using big 256k or 512k chips and our bin file is only 4k we need to offset our bin file to the last “slot” in our big chip. This is easily done with an offset feature built into the burning software. Offsets are as listed, and read this to better explain what we are doing.

29c256 – 7000 hex
27sf512 – F000 hex

Ok that’s it, you have all the hardware and software to start tuning. I’ll explain things a little deeper as we get to them. Next installment will discuss WinALDL and what to look for while data logging. Ok who’s gonna post up their logs?

PS. We’re going to try to keep this thread clean and easy to read so that new guys don’t get bored and skip over the meat of the discussion, so please stay on topic and start a new thread if you have problems like getting your laptop to link to the car or getting your burner to work. Better yet PM me and I’ll decide if we need to add your problem to the “common problem section”

Just remove the .txt extension from the attached files to use them.

xjcamaro89

BMmonte ill take you up on this first. And maybe it will be better to start with a stock .bin. Here is my datalog and a stock .bin for a 350 TBI motor. No egr, not cat, Holley 670 cfm TBI, 5 spd, stock internal engine parts. Lets make this thing work. The .bin file is in text form, sorry. And my data log is here: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...9&d=1143347217

Also I have TunerPro. what is the XDF file and do i need to load one? Or can I just load a .bin?

BMmonteSS

I just ninja edited my first post with the correct .xdf file for the $61 mask, you used one for a $6E mask which is TPI....oops. If you have your .bin file in actuall .bin format then all you have to do to post it is add .txt to the end of the extension to trick the server into letting you post it. If you don't have it in .bin format we may have a problem...or we could just start with a fresh stock .bin and go from there. You can edit your first post with the correct .bin file.

xjcamaro89

Also what chip adapter would we need for the 746 ECM from moates the G1 ro the G2, or do i need to take apart my ECM to check?

Also when in the uploading file process do you add the .txt to the file, the bin file i have is just a stock from one from moates, i need one for the 350 TBI, thanks!

BMmonteSS

You'll have to save the .bin file on you computer as a .bin.txt file first then upload it. You deffinately need the G2 adapter, he offers two versions with different pin spacing, but I always just ordered the .6" spacing and never had a problem, wouldn't hurt to look.

xjcamaro89

Ok, check the .bin file BMmonte, i went to moates website and got a stock 746 for a LO5. Make sure its right and here is a link to my last datalog file, i will try to run you one again tonight, im going to change some stuff a little and make the log a little more base so there is somewhere easy to start. I am also confused, what files am i going to use I have TunerPro, do i need to use just bin files or xdf file and where do i get ecu files?

Link to log:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...9&d=1143347217

Do i need to load a bin and a xdf file at the same time?

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

This is great BMonte. I will be cleaning up the stickies since we are starting to get some run ons. This one however will more than likely be a main stay.

BMmonteSS

With tunerpro, you need the .xdf and the bin file. The xdf is just a road map for your particular ecm/mask. If you were working on a TPI you would use another .xdf. XDF's and .ecu's are the same thing, only .xdf's are particular to tunerpro, you can also convert an .ecu file to an xdf file if needed.....for example the 747-mine.ecu file I posted would need to be converted in tunerpro before you could use it, there is an "import ecu file" option in tunerpro.

Since we aren't starting with the bin file thats in your ecm now, we'll have to stick with just setting up the bin for your particular vehicle which means:

1. Disable EGR

2. Disable TCC (torque converter lockup) since you have a manual tranny.

3. Setting the "injector constant" for your injectors. This is called BPC in tunerpro and is located under the constants window.

Then we'll be ready to burn a chip and give it a try. I'll see about getting the modified .bin up later.

xjcamaro89

Thanks ill take a look at that in TunerPro, and i got you email, thanks!

xjcamaro89

I ordered all my chip burning stuff today from moates and had it shipped 2nd day air so I will have it on friday ready for the weekend, thanks! And we can use that bin file you talked about and see what we get!

BMmonteSS

Ok our BPC (base pulse constant) is basically an injector constant and engine size all rolled up into one. So to calculate it we need to know a couple of things and get them in the right units and then plug it into the formula below.

BPC = 1461.5 * (cyl size / gm/s of fuel)

For cyl size you find your engine size in Liters. 350 * 16.39 = 5736.5 cc or 5.74 liters Then divide this by 8 to get your cylinder size 5.74/8 = .717L

For say a 65 lb/hr injectors : 65 / 3600 * 453.6 = 8.19 gm/s

So our formula works out to be:

BPC = 1461.5 * (0.717 / 8.19) = 127.95

So our new BPC is going to be 128. Now what happens if you don’t have stock fuel pressure? There is a formula for this as well.

SQRT(New PSI / OLD PSI) x (Injector lbs/hr) = New lbs/hr

Lets try it for 65 lb/hr injectors at 15 psi with an old pressure of 12 psi

SQRT(15 PSI / 12 PSI) x (65 lbs/hr) = 72.67 lbs/hr

So our BPC with this pressure would be 114.4 you can see how simply cranking up your fuel pressure causes big changes in fueling.

Ok XJ, you have a big throttle body, which injectors did you get with it? Keep in mind that holley rates their injectors at a higher PSI than GM. (20 psi I think, can anyone confirm?)

BronYrAur

iTrader: (1)

I know Ronny has posted many times that they are rated at 21psi, I think he spoke with Holley reps about it IIRC.

My only suggestion so far with XJ's car is not to start with that ANLU cal. I would start with an AXKW .bin which is the stock 5-speed .bin for a LO3. BPC will have to be changed still but the manual stuff will be set up right, I think there are some IAC differences as well. I also like the spark and VE tables better, because if you look at a stock ANLU .bin its full in spark advance at WOT is about 10* with maybe 4* added in from PE. Not to mention its set up for a much heavier vehicle.

I just know from personal experience with a manual car that after I made many changes the AXKW was always the best place to start for me.

Jim

xjcamaro89

I think that the injectors are 65lb/hr and i have a fuel pressure guage and i run a consitant 10 psi

BronYrAur

iTrader: (1)

Forgot, I might as well post it here for ya:

edit: it wont let me upload it because its been uploaded elsewhere before, soo just go https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tbi/283641-stock-305-5-speed.html

Cadillac

Daggumit, I'm jealous. Just not ready for this yet. Regardless, I'll be watching this thread with extreme interest.

(Alston SFC's arrived today)

xjcamaro89

OK, i am going to the junk yard today after work and getting a spare computer from a chevy van 350 TBI, since i ordered my burning supplies, and i have to solder a peice in, im going to try in on the spare computer im picking up. If it goes ok im going to be using that computer for the car. So let me know what information you will need off of that computer for the creation of the bin file. I am going to use the computer from the junk yard because i didnt want to f-up my origianl when soldering and have nothing to use, so if it works ok with the junk yard computer im just going to use that one in my car. Thanks!
----------
Also, is the .bin file a file that gives you something to work with in the tuning program and the xdf or ecu files are the one that are used when putting info onto the chip, almost like the bin file is an easily read file for the end user and then the information from the bin is then translated into the xdf or ecu for the chip for the cars computer to decifer? Im just trying to understand the need for two different files.

xjcamaro89

One more question. when i get a chip burned, like the one you were going to set up for me. Would i set the timing to 0* and set the idle, then set the TPS and then take it for a drive and datalog. In other words should i set the car to base and try it, or should i tweak the timing to get it to run right. Or are we going to get the car running right at base. Thanks!@

One more, what file will be used to burn the chip with?

BMmonteSS

You want to make sure the ECM you get is a 1228746, the van is most likely going to be a 12287747 which you can tune, but will require you to change some wires around. Stick with the ‘746 and keep it simple. You can try out a chip or two with your stock ecm until you get a spare to solder on. You want to set the timing at the distributor to what it’s set to in the chip. Which happens to be 0*. We’re going to make some educated guesses and then go for a drive, then we’ll be able to start making some big changes.

The bin file which is what we refer to when we say ANLU.bin it is the actual programming on the chip. This programming is very basic, and darn near impossible for you and me to “read”. When you make a change like say changing your BPC, you change a value in the bin file. The .XDF is nothing more than a road map that tells tunerpro where to find the tables in the .bin file and then tells tunerpro how to convert that table to something you and I can understand. Think of the .XDF as the secret decoder ring LOL

After comparing the ANLU and the AXKW I think it’s going to be best to stick with the ANLU.bin for a couple of reasons. Both bin’s have most the TCC and Shift light tables filled in, but only differ slightly in values. I think the engine will run better with a calibration that is setup for a 350, there are a lot of differences in the bin when it comes to pump shot, VE curves and of course the BPC not to mention the IAC and PID routines. I think we’ll have bigger drivability problems with all the fuel and timing tables being slightly off than we will with some tranny tables being off. With the power to burn your own chips it would only take a second to try both bin’s.

First round of changes with screen shots coming up after bit.

xjcamaro89

Any chance we would have something i can run this weekend, if all goes well i would like to have a datalog and start tuning this weekend?

BMmonteSS

I can't seem to save my screen shots as .jpg images, i'll have to resort to attaching a word file with the extention changed. Just erase the .txt extension off of the file and you can open it in word.

As you can see I have opened up all the items I have changed. You can find these items under the constants window or the flags window to the left. Before changing anything, go ahead and save your .bin file as another name, I like to keep a running number system so if I do something the car doesn’t like I just go back a bin file or two. It’s also easy to compare your new bin to your old bin this way using the compare feature of tunerpro. Make sure you click save on each individual window after changing them.

List of Items changed:

Unchecked High gear polarity flag, this is different between auto and manuals
Checked the manual/ auto flag for shift light control
Set both enable and disable EGR temp to 0 to disable (this term is inverted so 0 is actually a very high temp)
Changed our BPC to 128 (it’s labeled as BPW in this particular .xdf)
Changed our speed limiter settings to 255 to disable the speed limiter.

I’ve attached the modified bin file, but I strongly urge you to open it up and check the items I’ve mentioned here to see if you can find them and to see how I changed them.

Next we'll go through the procedures of actually burning a chip and testing it out.

xjcamaro89

will i ever modify the xdf file? Or is it there to do what you said just decode? In other words i would use the same xdf file every time, not making any changes to it, just changing the bin, file. Which file should i load first, xdf or bin?

BMmonteSS

Thats correct, the XDF never changes. You can however modify it if you want, but that is WAY over the level we need to stay in for beginners. Just so you know, there are a lot of parameters in the bin that we could change, but there is really no need to so they aren't "addressed" in the .xdf file.

xjcamaro89

which xdf file should i be using? Can I use the one that came with the TunerPro program, or should I use the one that you provided?

xjcamaro89

Where is the speed limiter at?

BMmonteSS

You need to use the 61V2.xdf I posted above, if you use the 6E.xdf that comes with tunerpro nothing will make sense. The fuel cut and resume speeds are in the constants window.

xjcamaro89

Ok i found it, and i think im reading it right, the fuel cut off was set to 10 MPH, and the resume is set to 8 MPH, can i go ahead and change that to the 255 for cut off and like 250 for resume?

Also I'm thinking ahead. When it comes time to actually burn a chip, will i use tunerpro, or will i just use the bin with a software that comes with the burner? Also is the bin we are working with set to use the first section of the chip like you talked about earlier?

Thanks!

Sorry for so many questions, im trying to learn, and this is what I needed to learn from , someone working with me one on one, thanks again!

xjcamaro89

Also when im datalogging in Winaldl, under configuration, should i set the TPS to .65 v since my Holley TBI calls for .65 v or should i leave the configuration at .54 v, thanks!

bluechevy194

BMmonteSS, i thank you very much for starting this thread, it is answering some of the question i have had. I am very new to tuning, just go my stuff yesterday, have only been messing with TunerPro for about a day now. My question is will i be able to use the 61V2.xdf with my setup, i have a 92 chevy truck, ecu is 16146299, just wondering if the bin would work with this xdf?

DM91RS

You can open the burner with tunerpro by going to:

Tools -then - Moates prom I/O and that will open the burner screen.

Or just make a shortcut to the Flash & Burn for the burner screen alone (Which is the same screen by the way). Follow the cd that comes with the package from Moates and it all will fall into place pretty easily.

xjcamaro89

so i cant use any other computer except the ones that say 1228746 on them, how come? If we are putting a different chip in it?

BMmonteSS

LOL, I see you found my little prank. Ahh well at least you’re paying attention and actually looking at things. It was funny as hell the first time I sent my buddy out with the speed limiter set to 10 mph.

Don’t change the TPS voltage, it should be set at .54.

Remember our bin file is smaller than what the chip is, so in order for the ecm to see our bin file on the larger chip we have to burn the bin file into the last slot on the chip. We’ll tell the burner where to put the bin file when we actually burn the chip, I’ll post up the how to here after bit or in the morning.

No, you can't use any other ecm other than the '746 only half of the programming for your $61 mask is on the removable chip, the other half of the programming is in an on board chip. Some of the TPI computers can swap mask between the same ECM, like the popular typhoon/syclone code into the 730 ecm but only because all the code is on the chip.

Bluechevy, you have an oddball ecm that uses a different mask $99 to be exact. You can go to Tuner cat’s website to look up your ecm and mask under the supported ECM's page. It looks like tuner cat is going to be your only option in getting software so you can program your ecm. I don’t believe there is a publicly available definition file for the $99 mask, but you can search around.

xjcamaro89

Im going to use moates flash burn program to burn my chips so if you leave direction for burning, if possible let me know if i need to know anything different since im not going to be burning from TunerPro. Thanks!

BMmonteSS

Ok now that we have our first chip ready to go we can burn that on to our flash chip. Take a look at this link here http://www.moates.net/documentation....entation_id=13
for an excellent write up of how to use the flash and burn. The burning process goes like this.

1. Erase your chip
2. Load the buffer with our new xj1.bin file (think of the buffer as your work bench)
3. Set the CHIP offset to the settings I listed at the beginning of this thread ( this will depend on which chip your using) Leave the buffer offset alone.
4. Hit the program button
5. That’s it, pull your chip out and stick it in your ECM

Some hints and tips, the orientation of the chip in the burner is important as well as the orientation in the ECM. Moates’s instruction sheet will tell you how to put the chip in the burner. In the ECM make sure the notch or dot on the chip is facing the center of the ECM, the 24pin to 28pin adapter should also have a notch in the socket.

When you turn the ignition key on your check engine light should come on for a second and then turn off, if you get a fast/erratic blinking light then something went wrong with the burn and you need to pull the chip and check for loose connections or re-burn the chip. If your chip comes loose while your driving the ecm will run off of the netres (backup backup mode), but not very well. It will let you get to a parking lot or home. I had this happen when one of my UV erasable chips erased while the ecm was laying out in the sun.

xjcamaro89

I went to the junk yard and got that computer, its not one that I can use, so i used it to practice my soldering, the job seemed fairly simple and easy to do so i dont have any worries about doing the soldering job on my computer now, i will take all the information that you have given me, burn a chip, datalog if possible (its suppossed to rain this weekend, i dont drive my car in the rain), and get back to you with the results and we can work on another setup. Would you be around on the weekend to take a look at a datalog if i get it up, or would i have to wait till monday? Thanks!

xjcamaro89

Could you also give me the correct sequence and operation to setting the timing and TPS. I just want to make sure i do everything right in setting the car up to get a good datalog and get information. Thanks!

BMmonteSS

I might, key word is might be able to jump on here this weekend. We're in the middle of getting my wife into her photography studio so I'm pretty booked. I'll PM you my phone number and if you get really stuck feel free to call. I can probably talk you through any little hiccup you might encounter. Any one else that might want to call me PM me and I'll give you my number as well.

Cool deal with the soldering, some people it's easy for and others couldn't solder if their life depended on it.

For setting the TPS, I would just fire up your datalogger and set the TPS as close to 0% as possible and leave it alone. I believe I read some where that certain mask will automatically zero themselfs and that setting them isn't required, I always set them just to be safe.

For setting the timing, just unhook the EST wire set the timing to 0 and then shut the car off hook the EST wire back up. Your timing will work fine after this buy you'll have a Code 42 stored, I unhook the battery and just to clear the code.

xjcamaro89

Can I set the TPS to .54 (that would be the same as 0% right, should i set this while the car is running or shut off?) And should I set the timing first or TPS first?

krisb410

iTrader: (9)

I have some data logs but I've just been fooling around. What should I do when I data log for tuning? Like how should I drive, aggresive, normal? I started changing the plugs/wires but ran out of time. Only got 5 plugs and 4 wires changed. Should I finish before I data log?

Kris

BMmonteSS

XJ, it won’t matter which order you do it in, and .54 is the equivalent of 0%. You can set the TPS with the car off, but obviously it will have to be running to set the timing.

Kris, When data logging I’ll look at the instantaneous sensor readings for an idea of what’s going on at the moment. You can do a strait data log to save this for you or me to look at later. I usually spend most of my time looking at the tables in winaldl. When I data log I try to drive as smoothly as possible and keep my foot out of the gas, the reason for this is that you can invoke PE mode with too much throttle input, when you do this your BLM’s lock at 128 and your data will be skewed in your winaldl table. The way around this is to set your PE thresholds higher at around 75% throttle so you don’t bump into it as often. You don’t want to leave it this way for too long because running your engine at 14.7 to 1 AFR at high RPM and load isn’t good for it. For a few data logs it won’t be a problem. Also quick throttle movements invoke lots of pump shot which will also skew your BLM’s for a short period of time. The trick is to populate as much of the table as possible so you have lots of data to tune from. I usually log for as long as possible, mostly on my drive to and from work (30-45 min). You can get away with as little as a 5 minute drive around the block, although I like to do my tuning on the highway because you usually have less throttle movement when cruising. I’ll slowly accelerate and decelerate to try to populate the higher load (higher KPA) cells, I’ll also drop down a gear to populate the higher RPM cells. What cells you don’t populate you’ll have to make an educated guess on based on surrounding cells.

Important: When you look at your tables you’ll notice a drop down box at the bottom of the table, in this box it will say “narrow avg” I strongly suggest you change this to “wide Avg”. This feature lets you weed out BLM readings that are too far ways form the avg. BLM, I feel the narrow avg. filters out too much data.

There is also a knock counts table, this keeps track of how many knock counts you get and under what conditions (MAP and RPM) that they occurred. Don’t worry about a few stray counts, look for areas that have groupings of counts or a high number of counts (greater than 5-10), these could be areas you need to back your timing off in. Also with my car free revving the engine would produce all kinds of knock counts but it would never knock when in gear under load. It was probably an exhaust rattle or leak.

xjcamaro89

When im putting in the F000 for writing to the last section of the chip, in Fast Burn , do i enter the F000 to the start address in HEX, or the End address in HEX, or both, or what I put it in both and the chip burned, but I have yet to try it, thanks

DM91RS

x

BMmonteSS

Just the start position, and F000 is if your using the 27SF512 chip.

xjcamaro89

Ok i got everything in and the chip works. I set the timing to 0 and set the idle. I took it for a ride and datalogged. WHen the car is all warmed up the idle is fine, and the car drives good but when throttle response off idle is a little slow and not instant. When the car is cooler the idle is sparatic, up and down from 500 to 1000 rpm until the car gets up to temp. I included the information you need from the datalog so feel free to take a look at it and make suggestions. I also pulled the chip from TBIchips.com and saved the .bin file from it. Take a look at that as well and see if the chip he sold me was junk for my car. Thanks alot everyone, and what happened to the message boards?

xjcamaro89

I also pulled the chip from TBIchips.com and saved the .bin file from it. Take a look at that as well and see if the chip he sold me was junk for my car. Thanks alot everyone, and what happened to the message boards?

DM91RS

What engine was the TBI chip for XJ?

xjcamaro89

The TBI chip (from TBIchips.com) was supposed to be for a 350 TBI manual trans, no egr.

BMmonteSS

Congradulations on your first chip!!!

Every thing looks good, your VE tables need some MAJOR work, which is good because you can only improve from here. I'll try, key word is try to get up a guide to adjusting your VE tables tonight, if not I'll get to it in the morning. Feel free to dable with it on your own if you think you can.

I took a look at that TBIchips bin file.......Let's just say I'm verfying some things before I let the cat out of the bag. If what I'm seeing is right then some body has some explaining to do. Of course every one is inocent untill proven guilty.

xjcamaro89

The TBIchips chip says on the chip COP MAN, which I think means that the chip is just for a cop car (caprice) with a manual trans. I see what I can do with the VE tables, thanks!

DM91RS

Yep unless my xdf is off (Way off)........there's some monkey business going on here. Or was it just April 1

BMmonteSS

ahh no, every motor needs 44 deg of timing at wot..........


There are some things that are off, like the BPC of 20, but other things look fine. I'm pm'ing some more senior DIY'ers that have dabled in code to make sure what were looking at is correct.