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406 build...ya...another one

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Old 02-08-2005, 02:55 AM
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406 build...ya...another one

Well guys I have my block and pistons only. Other stuff should be coming around "soon" depending on money. Few questions, first off will be a completely forged bottom end. Looks like i can find a 4340 eagle forged crank for high 300 dollar price range on some web site, think it was cnc motorsports or something. Anywayz will be a 400 crank, 3.75" stroke (what clearance issues will I run into if i go bigger than that?) 2 piece rear seal, and internally balanced (reason for that Is i plan on throwing my 153 tooth flywheel, yes its a T-5, yes itll break lol, but anywayz wanted to know if that was possible as well). Thing is ive heard some horror storys about eagle products and wanted to know what you guys thought about that. Also 6" ESP H beam rods (also eagle but well c). Have some SRP high compression pistons. Puts me at 11.26 compression ratio (did all the calculations) with a 0 deck and 76cc heads. Will have a .040 quench. Like i said took into account gasket size and all that junk. Want to run on 91 octane with out worry of detonation.

Thats the bottom end

Top end wise.

Afr 210 heads
Mechanical Roller Cam with a 300/308 advertised duration and .630/.630 lift with 1.5 rockers. 106lsa.

Victor Jr Intake manifold. And that about sums it up

Now, ive talked to a friend of mine and he told me the cam is too big for my application. I disagreed so want to know what you guys think.

Crank: Forged 3.75" Stroke
Rods: 6" H Beams
Pistons: Forged SRP (11.26 compression ratio)
Heads: AFR 210s
Cam : 300/306 .630/.630 106LSA
Intake Manifold: Victor Jr

Thats in a nut shell. Just want to know what you guys think about this set up (round about figure for hp/torque and rpm range) Also if that is doable compression, probably too late to ask now but hey lol, with aluminum heads and that size of a cam on 91 octane. Also if i went with a bigger stroke what kind of clearance issues will i run into (other than the oil pan). Also if i get an internally balanced crank if i can use my 153tooth flywheel. Also quality of eagle products. And um, ya that bout sums it up. I do not plan on driving this thing around town, just to the track and *** forbid street race once in a blue moon. Lemme know what you guys think thats for all the help. Appreciate it fellas

-Jesse
Old 02-08-2005, 07:45 AM
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Car: 1986 Iroc
Engine: Afr 408
Transmission: T56 Magnum
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" 3.70s
Nice combo seems like you're going for some serious power. I've never built a 400 so I couldn't tell you about clearance issues with the crank and rods your listed. But regardless, it should always be checked. Your cam is pretty stout, and I agree that it isn't too big. You're dynamic compression ratio comes out to be 8.46:1 which is probably pushing it with 91, but I'd say go for it. I sent you email with a graph of hp and tq, later.
Old 02-08-2005, 11:04 AM
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Car: 1986 IROC-Z
Engine: 355 ci TPI, 10:1 cr, Isky cam, ported heads, dual exhaust
Transmission: 700R4, ratchetting shifter, 3.23 rear
Your cam will be fine for street/strip, but you'd better get a steep rear end, I'd recommend 3.73. Below 3000 rpm, the cubic inches will not make enough natural torque to overcome the huge cam, and you'd be miserable driving on the street with a tall stock rear end.

You want big flowing heads for this cam probably. I'd recommend Brodix Track 1 heads with 2.08/1.60 valves. This will work well with your Victor Jr. You should see low 12's to high 11's with this engine, and your T5 probably wouldn't survive the first pass down the strip...sorry to say. Neither will your stock rear end.

This motor will be scary fast in a street car. Your first drive will probably have you wondering if you've just created a monster...until you get used to it.

Cooling might be a real issue with this engine. I'd look seriously into provisions for a nice large oil cooler to help your radiator. And upgrade your radiator with the biggest one you can shove in there.

Eagle rods and crank are forged, and should be fine up to about the 600 horse level, and you'll get close to that with this 406. I think you'll be around the 550 horse level. I'm not sure if the rumors are correct, but I've heard Eagle gets their forged parts from China. If you don't want to trust them, that's understandable, but upgrading to Carillo or Lunati would be a much more expensive venture.
I'm running Eagle forged rods in my Corvette's 427 because it's the only forged option below $1000 for the 435 horse pressed pin pistons. (Not as many options for a 427 as there are for a 454).

Here is a link to almost the identical 406 you're building. It belongs to a good friend of mine who built up a narly street/strip Corvette using this engine, and talks about his successes. On nitrous, I think he's deep in the low 11's and he's low 12's without the juice. I've ridden in this car and it really feels like launching an F-18 from a carrier deck. With steeper gearing, maybe you'll even be quicker.

http://sassenfeld.cs.utep.edu/1968corvette.htm
Old 02-08-2005, 01:16 PM
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Originally posted by Rockin-Iroc
Your cam will be fine for street/strip, but you'd better get a steep rear end, I'd recommend 3.73. Below 3000 rpm, the cubic inches will not make enough natural torque to overcome the huge cam, and you'd be miserable driving on the street with a tall stock rear end.

You want big flowing heads for this cam probably. I'd recommend Brodix Track 1 heads with 2.08/1.60 valves. This will work well with your Victor Jr. You should see low 12's to high 11's with this engine, and your T5 probably wouldn't survive the first pass down the strip...sorry to say. Neither will your stock rear end.

This motor will be scary fast in a street car. Your first drive will probably have you wondering if you've just created a monster...until you get used to it.

Cooling might be a real issue with this engine. I'd look seriously into provisions for a nice large oil cooler to help your radiator. And upgrade your radiator with the biggest one you can shove in there.

Eagle rods and crank are forged, and should be fine up to about the 600 horse level, and you'll get close to that with this 406. I think you'll be around the 550 horse level. I'm not sure if the rumors are correct, but I've heard Eagle gets their forged parts from China. If you don't want to trust them, that's understandable, but upgrading to Carillo or Lunati would be a much more expensive venture.
I'm running Eagle forged rods in my Corvette's 427 because it's the only forged option below $1000 for the 435 horse pressed pin pistons. (Not as many options for a 427 as there are for a 454).

Here is a link to almost the identical 406 you're building. It belongs to a good friend of mine who built up a narly street/strip Corvette using this engine, and talks about his successes. On nitrous, I think he's deep in the low 11's and he's low 12's without the juice. I've ridden in this car and it really feels like launching an F-18 from a carrier deck. With steeper gearing, maybe you'll even be quicker.

http://sassenfeld.cs.utep.edu/1968corvette.htm
Already have 3.73s, want something a little lower but not point in spending some more money on this 10 bolt when i doubt itll stand up 4 too long to this motor. Heads I already opted on the afr 210s.

Thanks for the reply fellas.

Anybody else?
Old 02-08-2005, 08:15 PM
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Originally posted by DevilsAddvocate
Already have 3.73s, want something a little lower but not point in spending some more money on this 10 bolt when i doubt itll stand up 4 too long to this motor. Heads I already opted on the afr 210s.

Thanks for the reply fellas.

Anybody else?
Any other opinions would be appreciated.
Old 02-08-2005, 08:27 PM
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Car: 1983 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
thats one big a$$ cam dude sounds like a great combo but she's gonna be all high rpm which is great if thats what your looking for.Thats gotta be a 500Hp motor i know mine is in the same area and it flat out rips
Old 02-08-2005, 08:30 PM
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So eagle makes those 4" stroke clearing rods. Other than the oil pan, what will clearance issues be like if i decide to get the 4" stroke crank instead of the 3.75. If theres gonna be clearing issues with the block n stuff i kinda wanna pass. But if its easily doable it makes me think. Anybody?
Old 02-08-2005, 08:39 PM
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Clearance issues? will you might want to phone up some reputable machine shops to find out that info.the only engine ive seen go that large usually run dart blocks which are clearanced for that kind of stroke,sounds expensive in any case
Old 02-09-2005, 03:36 AM
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Ya looks like its outa teh quesiton. Thanks for the help fellas. Still would like to know if i can use my 153 tooth flywheel if i get an internally balanced 400 crank. Thing is the flywheel came off a 1 piece rear seal and the 400 is well...2 piece. Any problems?
Old 02-14-2005, 09:45 AM
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read this

http://www.camaros.net/cgi-bin/forum...c/4/9551.html?
Old 02-14-2005, 10:18 AM
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the flywheel came off a 1 piece rear seal and the 400 is well...2 piece. Any problems?
No, not really; it's pretty straightforward. It just won't work, period. No problems figuring that out.

You need the right flywheel instead of that one. If your motor is internally balanced, you need a stock configuration flywheel for 83-85 Camaro/Firebird T-5. If your motor ends up externally balanced, you need the same flywheel, and to have it "unbalalanced" to the stock 400 spec. Again, real straightforward, easy to figure out.
Old 02-14-2005, 12:31 PM
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Ya i figured it out a while ago, sorry I didnt reply to this post and let you guys know. Thanks anywayz fellas.
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