robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

This has been discussed many times, but I thought I'd try to help some of you out with putting as much of this info in one place as possible. Always start by reading our LS conversion sticky:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...third-gen.html

The basic idea is that the oil pan and front accessories that your truck engine came with won't work in our F-bodies. The oil pan hangs far below the k-member, and the belt-driven accessories run into a few different places in the engine compartment. (mostly the hood)

Here are a few threads that deal with why the truck setup won't work, and some ideas on how to make them work if you're really set on using them:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...cessories.html

http://www.retrorat.com/2012/05/lsx-...nator-diy.html

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...k-intakes.html

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...otor-into.html

For comparison here's the truck accessories:


F-body accessories:


There's been some discussion about using a cowl hood to keep the truck accessories, and yes it will work. It seems that a 3" hood would be a good place to start, but I have no experience in this area. However, there's no getting around having to use the f-body oil pan.

So if you have a cowl hood, you just might be in good shape. If you don't and want F-body accessories, read on.

Here's what you'll need:



1 - Tensioner $80

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LS1-Camaro-Firebird-GTO-Main-Accessory-Belt-ALT-PS-Tensioner-DAYCO-/121353815489?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c414045c1&vxp=mtr


2 - Water pump $140 ($100 with coupon code TRT41 at Advance)

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/t...49/15760004-P#



3 - Power steering brackets (2) - $50

http://www.ebay.com/itm/131252874668...84.m1423.l2649

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

4 - Alternator $70

http://www.ebay.com/itm/141358870229...84.m1423.l2649





http://www.ebay.com/itm/131252874675...84.m1423.l2649




5 - Idler Aprox $40-$50 New. However, you'd just go pick one up at a parts yard because $50 for a little pulley is nuts. Oh and BTW, here's some awesome info on our pulley bearings:

http://ls1tech.com/forums/general-ma...r-pulleys.html

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/d...archTerm=idler



6 - Balancer $40-$90 depending where you get it.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/d...hTerm=balancer



Here's why you need it:



Oil pan accessories - $97

Includes:
windage tray # 12558253
Oil Pump Pickup # 12558251
Oil dipstick tube # 12551577
Oil dipstick # 12551581
Oil pump pickup "O" ring # 12557752

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321357016223...84.m1423.l2649



Oil pan - aprox $250

http://www.ebay.com/itm/141189404560...84.m1423.l2649




For a total of aprox $775. And that without buying the actual alternator, power steering pump, or any of the AC stuff (I'll add that if anyone wants me to).

So for about $1000 total, you can make that truck engine fit........which isn't all that bad actually when you consider that'll you'll be able to sell the stuff from you engine that you won't need.

Also I'm VERY AWARE that these parts can be found cheaper by scavenging this site and LS1tech along with craigslist and ebay. So keep in mind that number can come down depending on how much digging you're willing to do.

I haven't even touched on the intake either. Aside from this stuff you'll need mounts, a harness, tune, exhaust, and you're off. I'm sure I've left some stuff out so feel free to correct me.

NemeSS-TyranT

iTrader: (1)

a ctsv pan will work if cant find a fbody pan. I can confirm this.
but theres too many types of mounts. gotta take all that into account also. with the engine placement. will affect headers/manifolds. etc. even the c6 oil pan will work. but the mounts used determine what setup works.
but for a basic swap the fbody pan is king

accessories. the truck offset will work work or the fbody oofset. don't have to necessarily use the truck bracket or fbody brackets. there is a lot of options out there. its possiblke to mix n match some parts.

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

Yes it is absolutely possible to mix n match parts. The possibilities are endless.

Warnd

Great post rob! Will be helpful to have all of this information in the same place. Especially since the same topics seem to come up every few days. Might be helpful to include a section about the different types of truck engines. As far as drive by wire and drive by cable. I know that question constantly comes up to.

Well done though...hopefully we can just link here for people with these questions from now on.

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

Figure I will chime in with this for the oil pan since ebay ad's expire. Probably ordering mine this week

Jay

http://www.superchevyperformance.com...28771&CartID=1

WTR388

Looking at this, I see a difference in my power steering bracket.
I have the style that has the 3 mounting holes for the bracket to the head, and then there are only two tapped holes for the pump to mount to... Why was there a difference?

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

Not sure, anyone else know?

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

I believe the older ones have 2 bolts and the newer design has 3 bolts if I remember correctly. Could just be replacements that have them and not OE for multiple car fitment. I know the Old LT1 pump was similar in design also.

I will add to this also. Corvette, F-body's, and trucks all have different shaft diameters on the pw pumps. The Corvette and F-body pumps look the exact same (I had both) but the shafts were different. I know the Corvette one will take more RPM, and the pulleys are nicer/cheaper. And they don't require yanking the pulley to properly take the pump off the car.

Jay

cosmick

I'm not the only one to have successfully modified the truck oilpan, and far cheaper than getting any other version. It's not that difficult, either. The other person has a thread in the fabrication section.

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

Link it up! I searched but didn't find it.

Obviously people like you and I with Tig welders could mod just about anything, however, we're the exception because most people need an oil pan that'll just work.

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

So the vette PS pump can be used with F-body accessories? The shafts are different diameters so pulley's can't be swapped, but it'll work with it's stock pulley?

zenish

So can I keep my 700r4 til it breaks? if not. Can I use the trans with the 4.8 and the Camaro tailshaft?

cam-

This thread is full of win!

cosmick

Yes, you can use a 700R-4 with a 4.8, mount the trans first, then find engine mounts that match up. Dunno if the Spohn mounts will or not. Probably need the LQ4 flexplate, but the dished 4.8 flexplate might work with the Hughes adapter bushing for matching up the torque converter's pilot with the back of the crank. Then you need to figure out the throttle valve cable. I think BTO offers something, but I think it requires a '97-'98 78mm TB.

cosmick

This one is NOT my own: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/fabr...5-3-truck.html
and I had to pay for TIG welding. Mine's more "ghetto". And mine's not finished until the bottom of the third page of this thread: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...hoosing-2.html

cosmick

Seems that would depend how you mount it. Stock offsets are different, so it would have to be spaced forward to get the belt alignment for whichever crank pulley is used.

cosmick

As the truck versions have successfully survived repeated 7500 RPM use, how much RPM would you want to justify the 'vette version?

cosmick

DBW isn't practical with the superior-flowing '07-up intake manifold. No way to attach a bracket for the cable, unless you sandwich a custom bracket between the manifold and the TB.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Nice post!

Price out a Fbody PS reservoir too for more hurt feelings

Just a FYI, the rear brace for the alt isnt required, even when only two bolts are used on the iron block. If you're putting more tension on the belt IE blower, then Id recommend it